Updated · On BootsnAll since 2000 · History
Overview and Things to Consider
Havana isn't a typical Caribbean destination. There are no all-inclusive resorts, no cruise ship passengers clogging the beaches and no modern shopping malls. Instead you get a city that feels suspended in time, with culture, music and conversation around every corner. The architecture is striking, if crumbling, and people are warm and curious about visitors, largely because tourism hasn't overrun the city the way it has elsewhere in the region.
US citizens face a complicated situation. Travel restrictions have loosened significantly since 2015, but there are still rules about how Americans can visit Cuba. You can't just show up as a tourist, though it's easier now than it was. You'll need to join a licensed tour group, travel under a specific license category (like educational or religious travel), or travel through a third country. Many Americans skirt the rules by going through Mexico or Canada, though technically that's not how it's supposed to work. Non-US citizens have no restrictions whatsoever.
The currency situation affects everything. Cuba used both the Cuban peso (CUP) and the Cuban convertible peso (CUC) until 2021, when the CUC was phased out and the CUP became the only official peso. In practice, most traveler-facing places quote prices in USD or accept USD directly, though you'll get better rates converting to CUP. Cash is essential - credit cards often don't work, and ATMs are unreliable. Many restaurants and casa owners prefer payment in cash, period.
Getting There and Around
José Martí International Airport is the main gateway, about 25km south of the city center. Taxis from the airport are officially metered but drivers sometimes resist using them - agree on a price before getting in, or use the official taxi desk inside the terminal. Many travelers arrange pickup through their casa particular or hotel ahead of time, which is often cheaper and less hassle.
Getting around is part of the Havana experience. Old Havana is compact and walkable. For longer distances, coco-taxis (three-wheeled vehicles) are fun and cheap. Regular taxis use meters and cost a bit more. Viazul buses connect major cities, but Havana's own bus system is chaotic and crowded. Renting a classic car through a tour agency sounds romantic but is expensive and impractical for getting around the city. In the old city, walk.
A casa particular (private home rental) is your best bet for a bed: cheaper, more authentic, and the money goes to Cuban families rather than the state. Book in advance through established websites. Hotels range from state-run places that can feel Soviet-era to newer boutique properties in Vedado. A homestay in a neighborhood like Vedado puts you near the real city rather than inside the Old Havana tourist bubble.
What's Changed Since 2016
Havana has visibly changed in the past decade, though it still feels like Havana. More restaurants and cafes have opened, particularly in Vedado and Diez de Octubre neighborhoods. Internet connectivity is improving, though it's still slow and expensive by global standards - the government-run wifi hotspots remain the cheapest option. More travelers come now, especially cruise passengers on day trips, though the city never feels overrun like some Caribbean destinations.
The political situation tightened after 2020, with less tolerance for dissent and fewer street-level freedoms than in the immediate post-2015 opening period. Crime has increased, particularly property theft targeting travelers. The economic situation has also worsened, making it harder for everyday Cubans and affecting availability of goods. Some visitors report that the city feels more commercialized and less magical than it did 8-10 years ago, though it's still unlike anywhere else in the Caribbean.
Ideas to Consider for Your Visit
Old Havana (Habana Vieja) is the obvious starting point - the narrow streets, colonial plazas, and restored mansions make for excellent walking. Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, and the Cathedral Plaza all reward slow exploration. The Malecón waterfront stretches for kilometers, and locals congregate there in the late afternoon and evening, making it perfect for people-watching and sunset watching. La Punta fortress sits at the entrance to the harbor.
The rum bars are excellent. La Bodeguita del Medio is famously touristy, but the mojitos are solid. Casa del Ron has a thoughtful collection and less tourist fanfare. The nightlife runs on live music: look for venues in Vedado like La Zorra y El Cuervo (jazz) or Cabaret Nacional (cabaret). Music is one of the best things about Havana, and depending on where you go you'll hear street musicians, doorway sessions and full orchestras.
Beyond the obvious circuits, spend time in Vedado and Diez de Octubre, where you'll find local restaurants, rooftop bars and the Fusterlandia neighborhood, covered in colorful tile mosaics by artist José Fuster. The Revolution Museum, Ernest Hemingway's house Finca Vigía (outside the city) and the Museum of Fine Arts round out the cultural options. Most visitors skip the beaches, which are mediocre. Havana is a city destination, not a beach one.
Realities to Be Aware Of
Petty theft is real. Don't carry expensive cameras, phones or jewelry where people can see them. Bag snatching happens, and pickpockets work the crowds. Avoid the rougher neighborhoods outside Old Havana and Vedado, particularly Centro and Arroyo Naranjo. Tourist police exist, but reporting a crime is slow going. The city isn't dangerous the way some places are, but use normal urban caution.
Internet and communications are frustratingly slow and expensive. Expect to buy scratch cards for government wifi hotspots. Many services don't have reliable email or messaging. Call centers exist but are pricey. Your phone probably won't work well. Download offline maps before you arrive.
Restaurants are hit-or-miss, particularly state-run ones. Casa particular owners often cook meals if you ask in advance, which is frequently better value than restaurants. Tap water is drinkable but many visitors stick to bottled. Power outages are occasional but not constant. English is spoken less widely than in other Caribbean cities, so learning basic Spanish helps significantly.
If Havana Is Part of a Longer Trip
Viazul buses connect Havana with the rest of Cuba. Trinidad, a colonial town on the south coast, is the most popular day or overnight trip, about 5 hours by bus. The Viñales Valley west of Havana has tobacco plantations and mountain scenery. Varadero, the beach resort town, is about two hours east by road but feels like a different Cuba: more developed, more touristy and less interesting to most travelers.
From the Caribbean perspective, Havana doesn't easily connect to other islands. There are no ferries to Jamaica or the Bahamas. You'd need to fly to any other Caribbean destination. Some travelers build a Cuba-focused trip visiting multiple cities - Havana, Trinidad, and possibly Santiago de Cuba in the east - rather than combining Cuba with island-hopping to other Caribbean nations.
Yearly Things to Consider
Havana is warm year-round. The dry season (November through April) has the most comfortable weather and is peak tourist season. Hurricane season runs June through November, with real risk in September and October, though Havana itself gets hit less often than other Caribbean islands. Summer (June through August) is hot, humid and rainy.
January - Cool and dry, around 25C (77F), best weather of the year. February - Similar to January, dry and pleasant. March - Warming up, still mostly dry, occasional showers. April - Transitioning toward rainy season, still warm and generally nice. May - Increasingly hot and humid, more frequent afternoon showers. June - Hot and very humid, Caribbean hurricane season begins. July - Peak heat and humidity, occasional tropical rain. August - Continued heat and humidity, hurricane risk remains present. September - Hottest month, highest hurricane risk, many locals leave the city. October - Still hot and rainy, hurricane season continues. November - Hurricane season ends, weather begins improving, cooling trends start. December - Cooling down, increasingly dry, travelers begin arriving.
Ideas for Itineraries
3 Days in Havana
Spend your first day getting lost in Old Havana - walk the plazas, explore the narrow streets, have lunch at a local cafe, watch the sunset from the Malecón. Second day, venture into Vedado neighborhood, visit the Museum of Fine Arts or Fusterlandia, have dinner at a casa particular, enjoy live music in the evening. Third day, take a half-day trip to Hemingway's Finca Vigía outside the city, return for a final Malecón sunset and dinner.
5 Days in Havana
Days 1-2 follow the 3-day itinerary above. Day 3, take a full-day Viazul bus journey to Trinidad (south coast), spend the night, explore its colonial plazas and beaches. Day 4, return to Havana, rest and recover, explore a neighborhood you missed (Diez de Octubre, perhaps). Day 5, leisurely morning in your favorite cafe, afternoon at Hemingway's house or the Revolutionary Museum, final evening of live music and rum in Vedado.
1 Week in Havana
With a week, take two nights in Trinidad (allowing for a full day there exploring beaches and towns). Spend 3-4 days thoroughly exploring Havana's different neighborhoods beyond Old Havana and Vedado - venture into Diez de Octubre, Miramar (the fancy district), or the colorful street art areas. Take a day trip to Viñales Valley for tobacco plantations and cave exploration. Schedule multiple nights for live music venues. Visit museums and cultural sites without rushing. Spend significant time at street-level cafes observing local life.
2 Weeks or More in Havana
Two weeks allows for a real Cuba experience beyond Havana. Spend 5-6 days in Havana, then take Viazul buses to Trinidad (2-3 nights), the Viñales Valley region (2 nights), and possibly Santiago de Cuba in the east (3-4 nights) if you have time. This pacing lets you see different Cuba landscapes - urban Havana, colonial towns, rural agriculture, and coastal areas - while avoiding the rush of trying to squeeze everything into a week. Alternatively, base yourself in Havana and take multiple day trips to nearby regions.
Nearby on BootsnAll
From the BootsnAll archive
10 stories and articles about Havana, 2000 to 2018
- 10,000 feet and Smoking - a Flight on Cubana Airways - Havana, Cuba
Article · Aaron O'Sullivan
- In the Ruins of the Future - Havana, Cuba
Article · Devin Foxall
- Stepping Up to Cuba’s Cultural Beat - Havana, Cuba
Article · Barney Lyons
- How a Hurricane Showed One Traveler Cuba’s Heart
Article · 2018 · Alexandra Williamson
- Finding Meaningful Conversations in Havana
Article · 2018 · Morgan Bernard
- Travels in Cuba - Cigars, Salsa and Hemingway
Story · 2001 · Celine O'Malley
- Iowa Yankee in King Castro’s Court (4 of 6)
Article · 2000 · Kirk Stephan
- Iowa Yankee in King Castro’s Court (3 of 6)
Article · 2000 · Kirk Stephan
Show all 10
- Iowa Yankee in King Castro’s Court (2 of 6)
Article · 2000 · Kirk Stephan
- Trip to the Tropicana - Havana, Cuba
Article · 2000 · Ann Derby
Havana Travel FAQ
Technically yes, but with restrictions. You need a valid travel license from the US government, which falls into specific categories like educational travel, religious travel, or humanitarian work. Many Americans travel through licensed tour groups, which simplifies the process. Others travel through third countries (Mexico, Canada) though this skirts the rules. Non-US citizens face no restrictions.
Bring US dollars in cash. Credit cards and debit cards often don't work due to the US embargo. ATMs are unreliable. Convert some dollars to Cuban pesos for better rates, but many places accept dollars directly. The Cuban peso (CUP) is cheaper and used more by locals, while dollars are convenient for travelers.
Generally yes, but exercise normal urban caution. Petty theft, pickpocketing, and bag snatching occur, especially in crowded areas and at night. Violent crime against travelers is rare. Stick to Old Havana, Vedado, and Miramar neighborhoods. Avoid Centro, Arroyo Naranjo, and other outlying areas, particularly after dark. Don't display expensive electronics or jewelry.
A casa particular is a private home rental: a room in someone's house, rented to travelers. They're cheaper than hotels, more authentic, and the money goes straight to Cuban families. They're generally very safe. Book through established websites with reviews. The hosts are used to travelers and most speak English. Conditions run from basic to comfortable, so check photos and reviews carefully.
English is less common in Havana than in other Caribbean cities, so basic Spanish phrases go a long way. Older Cubans are more likely to speak English from their childhood schooling. Younger Cubans often don't unless they work in tourism. Carry a phrasebook or a translation app. Locals appreciate the effort even if you're not fluent.
November through April offers the best weather - dry, cool, and comfortable. December through January is peak season with more travelers. September and October have hurricane risk. June through August are hot, humid, and rainy. If you want fewer travelers and don't mind heat, May and September-October are cheaper. Most visitors choose December-March for the ideal weather-tourism balance.
Yes, easily. Havana is walkable and taxi rides are cheap. You don't need organized tours for Old Havana or central neighborhoods. That said, getting to some sites outside the city (like Hemingway's house or Viñales Valley) is easier with a tour or rented car. But within the city center, walking, coco-taxis, and regular taxis get you everywhere you need to go.
Bring extra cash. ATMs exist but are unreliable, so don't count on them. Some upscale hotels and restaurants take cards, but most casa particulares, small restaurants and street vendors want cash only. If you run out of money, a tour operator or your embassy might help, but that's a real gamble. Bring all the cash you'll need. For Cuba, that's non-negotiable.
Update history (17)▸
· Rewrite
Edited for readability and the BootsnAll voice: generic phrasing cut in 16 passages, no facts changed
· Links
Added "Nearby on BootsnAll" links to the new last-mile guides: Viñales, Varadero
· Fact-check
Fact-checked against current sources: 2 corrections
- Says Cuba 'uses both' CUP and CUC. The CUC was withdrawn on 1 January 2021, and the last day to exchange CUC notes was 30 December 2021, so Cuba no longer uses it. (source)
- Says Varadero is about an hour away. It is about 140 km east of Havana: about two hours by car and about three hours on the Viazul bus. (source)
· Rewrite
Updated for modern frameworks, with content updates and changes
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Contributors
3 member blog posts from 1 blogger
- 2011: 3 posts from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
1 member blog post from 1 blogger
- 2010: 1 post from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
9 member blog posts from 2 bloggers
- 2009: 9 posts from 2 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Archive
Travel guide on BootsnAll, at a new address
Archived copy of /Caribbean-Cuba-Havana· Contributors
3 member blog posts from 2 bloggers
- 2008: 3 posts from 2 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
20 member blog posts from 4 bloggers
- 2007: 20 posts from 4 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
8 member blog posts from 4 bloggers
- 2006: 8 posts from 4 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
1 article, by Ann Derby
- April 2000: Trip to the Tropicana - Havana, Cuba - Ann Derby (article) (source)
· Contributors
Chris Heidrich, BootsnAll co-founder, has contributed to this guide since 1999, including dispatches from BootsnAll and AirTreks travelers
