Prague
Prague, or Praha as it's locally known, is the capital of the Czech Republic. Its historic old center is hospitable to tourists, as the vast majority of the city's sites are within walking distance. In fact, many visitors to Prague never venture outside the old town to the sprawling modern city beyond. That's okay, because there's enough to see and do in old Prague to keep you occupied for quite awhile.
What to do
Prague's Old Town (Staré město),the oldest part of the city, sits on the right bank of the Vltava River. There's plenty to see, including the popular hangout the Old Town Square and the nearby astronomical clock (crowds gather every hour to see the puppets move). The architecture of historic Prague is distinctive, partly because the city suffered far less damage during the war than other cities, so its interesting buildings remain interesting to this day.
Nearby, you'll want to take a stroll on Prague's most famous bridge over the Vltava - Charles Bridge (Karlův most). Before the Velvet Revolution in 1989, the bridge was pretty but lifeless. Now, the days find it full of musicians, artists and vendors.
The Jewish Quarter (Josefov) is adjacent to the Old Town, and is the historic Jewish ghetto. The collection of synagogues (along with a few other important buildings) is called the Jewish Museum, and there's a combined ticket for all of them. The Jewish Quarter is remarkably well-preserved, especially since Prague was occupied by the Nazis, but there's an explanation for that. The Nazi intent was to set that part of the city aside as a museum of an extinct race - so in a twisted way, we have the Nazis to thank for the preservation of the Jewish buildings and relics.
Of particular note in the Jewish Quarter are the Spanish Synagoguge (a Moorish style building that's beautifully deocorated inside), the Jewish Cemetery (the oldest in Europe, where people are buried in layers for lack of space and there are estiamtes of more than 12,000 people buried within its walls) and Franz Kafka's house. Europe's oldest active synagogue, the Old New Synagogue, is also in the Jewish Quarter.
Beyond the Old Town, Prague Castle (Hradčany) sits atop the highest point on the left bank of the Vltava, and is the largest ancient castle in the world (ask Guinness). From the Castle's find perch you'll get a great view of central Prague, and inside the Castle's walls you'll find the lovely St. Vitus Cathedral. The New Town's (Nové město) biggest draw is the bustling Wenceslas Square. And architecture buffs will want to check out Prague's Dancing House, nickanmed the Fred and Ginger Building, co-designed by Vlado Milunić and Frank Gehry.
Getting there
You can book a flight into Prague's Ruzyne International Airport (code: PRG), which is about 10 km outside the city. Airfares are usually reasonable, but you might also consider flying into Frankfurt and arriving by train. Prague's central location makes it a great stop for those using a Eurail Pass.
Where to stay
There are plenty of hotels in Prague, but they aren't as cheap as one might expect. There are also quite a few hostels in Prague, which definitely help people on a backpacker's budget.
Attractions in Prague
Address: Old Town, Prague 1
Prague's Charles Bridge ("Karluv most" in Czech) is the beautiful pedestrian-only bridge spanning the Vltava River, linking the Old Town and the path to Prague Castle. While it was once the only bridge crossing the river, it remains an important historical point which tourists and street vendors flock to in nearly any weather.
Every day, the Charles Bridge is lined with artists and street musicians hoping to earn a little tourist money from the people who wander back and forth (word of warning - it can get crowded during the high season). At night, the musicians stay on as the bridge transforms into a romantic avenue for lovers. The best times to visit are probably early morning or sunset, to avoid the biggest crowds or catch the loveliest views.
Although the Charles Bridge is lined with statues, the most famous is also the oldest (although most of the statues are copies today) - that of St. John of Nepomuk, who was martyred by being thrown into the Vltava from the Charles Bridge on the King's orders. You'll know which one it is because the plaque beneath is polished to a shine on account of all the people who touch it to bring good luck.
Hours: Always open
Admission: Free
Address: Charles Bridge, Old Town, Prague 1
The Charles Bridge has three towers - the most famous is the Old Town Bridge Tower on (not surprisingly) the Old Town side of the bridge. It is a splendid Gothic tower - called one of the best examples of a Gothic gate ever created. Completed in 1380, it only looks more intimidating and "goth" with the blackness it has acquired over the years.
This Old Town Bridge Tower, or "Staromestska vez" in Czech, is part of the old fortification system for the city of Prague, and was even damaged during an attempt by Swedish invaders to take over the Old Town in 1648. The tower survived, as did the many sculptures which decorate it.
You can climb the Old Town Bridge Tower for a great view of the city (and a photo-op). Of course, if you would rather have the Old Town Bridge Tower in your photos, you are better off walking to the other end of the bridge and climbing the Mala Strana Bridge Tower.
Hours: Opening hours vary by season, but it is always open from 10:00-17:00, and it is open until 22:00 during the high season of June-September.
Admission: About 40 Kc
Address: Staromestské nám. 1/3, Praha 1 - Staré Mesto, 110 00
The main sight on Prague's Old Town Hall is actually not even inside - it's the famous Astronomical Clock that adorns one wall on the side of the building. The clock ("orloj" in Czech) dates from the early 1400s, when such complex clock mechanisms were popular and being installed in cities all over Europe.
In addition to a mechanical clock, the contraption also includes an astronomical dial which features a calendar as well. The Astronomical Clock has been repaired several times over the centuries, most notably after it sustained heavy damage near the end of World War II. Crowds gather to see the clock strike each hour between 08:00 and 21:00 (20:00 in the low season) and the procession of figurines (representing the 12 apostles) which parades above the clock each hour.
Prague's main Tourist Information office is located to the left of the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Hall, and that's where you'll go to gain access to the Old Town Hall itself, along with the Gothic chapel inside and the tower overlooking the Old Town Square. Check with the people in the TI for the tour schedule to see the Old Town Hall and the Astronomical Clock.
Hours: Prague's Old Town Hall is open Monday 11:00-18:00 and Tuesday-Sunday 09:00-18:00 (April-October); Monday 11:00-17:00 and Tuesday-Sunday 09:00-17:00 (November-March).
Admission: A ticket to the top of the tower is 40 Kc, and a tour of the Old Town Hall, the chapel and a behind-the-scenes look at the Astronomical Clock's inner workings is 50 Kc.
Address: Hradcany, Prague 1
Prague Castle ("Prazsky hrad" in Czech) is, by many accounts, the largest castle in the world. In addition, it's at the top of a hill - so prepare for a hike to reach it, and then lots of walking to see it all. The castle is where the President of the Czech Republic is based today.
Unlike many castles, Prague Castle's sights consist not just of the castle building itself but of all the buildings in the complex - including St. Vitus Cathedral (the landmark you'll recognize on the horizon), St. George's Basilica and the Golden Lane, along with several museums and galleries.
To get to Prague Castle, you can walk up from the Charles Bridge through the steep Nerudova street, take the Old Castle Stairs near the Malostranska Metro station, or take the Castle Stairs which start with a diversion partway up Nerudova street onto Zamecka street. To save yourself a steep walk, you can take tram 22 or 23 instead.
Hours:
Summer (March 26-October 31):
Exteriors: Daily, 05:00-24:00
Interiors (St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George's Basilica, Powder Tower, Golden Lane, Daliborka Tower): Daily 09:00-17:00
Gardens & Deer Moat: Daily 10:00-18:00
Winter (November 1-March 25):
Exteriors: Daily 06:00-23:00
Interiors: 09:00-16:00
Gardens & Deer Moat: Closed
Changing of the Guard: Hourly, 05:00-23:00 (noon is the best show)
Admission:
Prices will vary from roughly 450 Kc to 50 Kc depending on what individual sights you want to see, and there are discounts available for students, handicapped people and seniors.
Address: Old Town Square, Old Town, Prague 1
The Tyn Church in Prague's Old Town Square actually goes by a much longer name - Church of Our Lady in Front of Tyn. Whatever you call it, it's one of the more recognizable features of the square, and arguably of old Prague.
This Gothic masterpiece is the third church to occupy the site, although it's always had the same name and has been the primary church for the surrounding neighborhoods since the 14th century. Oddly, the facade of Tyn (pronounced "teen") Church is hidden behind some of the buildings which line the square, giving the church the illusion of looming over the Old Town Square as if it's hiding (albeit unsuccessfully). This means that the church's entrance is not a grand front door as you might expect, but rather down a narrow path between the houses and the facade.
The church's exterior has undergone several renovations, some as recent as the mid 1990s, and it's now the interior's turn. Among other tombs inside Tyn Church, you'll find that of Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, buried here in 1601. The church's hours can vary, and most tourists don't bother trying to get inside. They're usually content with the view of the incredible spires from the Old Town Square. And if you like them by day, be sure to come back at night when they're all lit up - then try to decide whether you think they look inviting or menacing. Or a little of both.
Take the Metro line A to Staromestska, or line B to Namesti Republiky. The Old Town Square is full of tourists, so follow the crowds.
Hours: The church is sometimes open Monday-Friday from 10:00-13:00 and 15:00-17:00, but don't be surprised if the hours change.
Admission: Free
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