By Judy Wolf
Squinting in the hot morning sunlight, I hoisted my kayak, gear, and neoprene-clad body into the back of Diego's banana truck. Shaded beneath tarpaulins in the cargo bed of a bouncing farm truck, our group of four paddlers peered through the wood-slatted sides at dark green foliage, waving palm fronds, fields of tufted sugar cane and row upon row of thick, waxy-leafed coffee plants emanating a jasmine-like perfume.
Diego turned off the main road onto a dirt trail that wound precariously through shaded rainforest growth. The air was humid. Our hearts were pounding. The side of the road nearest me fell steeply away - a sheer and sandy cliff I tried not to notice. After half an hour, we pulled to a stop at the broad, sandy bank of the Lower Pacuare and unloaded our rented kayaks. We were going to spend a day on one of the most beautiful whitewater rafting rivers in the world. Ahead of us were 17 miles of scenic, class III-IV (moderate to advanced) rapids winding their way through virgin rainforest.
Full of personality, the water was playful and entertaining. Clouds of hovering butterflies fluttered multicolored wings in a rainbow of crimson, yellow, and cobalt as the tropical landscape unfolded on either side of the gorge. Everywhere I looked, vertical clumps of vine and tangled leaf shapes stretched toward the light. Every possible space was filled with a cascade of dark, blue-green foliage. Birds sang and flew through the trees and underbrush, darting across the river directly in front of our boats, showing no concern for our presence. Long-limbed monkeys leapt through the tree branches overhead.
By the time we reloaded our kayaks into Diego's waiting banana truck, the abundance of life along the banks had convinced me that self-propelled river travel was one of the best ways to see this remarkable wildlife and vegetation. It is also a perspective that most people never experience. Whether you're visiting Costa Rica for the first time, or have traveled there for business more times than you can count, a side trip to Turrialba yields an easy and rewarding break from the routine of business travel and tourist stopovers.
As a natural resting point on many north-south avian migration paths, Costa Rica boasts over 850 different species of bird, including almost one-fifth of the 330 known hummingbirds, and 16 species of parrot. Oropéndolas, large black birds with bright yellow tails, build long, sac-like nests that can be seen dangling from isolated tree branches. The river valley alone supports 150 species of mammal, ranging from jaguars and tapirs to the more commonly spotted monkeys and coatis. Add to this list over 130 amphibians and reptiles, a wide range of ecosystems, and an incredibly diverse selection of flora, and it is easy to understand why this 185-mile-wide country is considered one of the most ecologically abundant areas in the hemisphere.
The sleepy town of Turrialba is the whitewater capital of Costa Rica largely because of its proximity to several of the best rivers in the country. Kayakers, canoeists, and rafters have a variety of rivers to choose from, with easy transportation options and several reputable outfitters offering single and multi-day outings. While Costa Rica's peak tourist season runs from Christmas through April (the dry season), the mild climate and warm waters attract whitewater enthusiasts year round - with the added bonus that off-season hotel rates can be half the peak price.
In addition to the Lower Pacuare, visitors can choose to meander down the Rio Corobici (class I-II) or Rio Pejibaye (class II) on a leisurely bird-watching expedition, or more experienced boaters can put in further upstream on the Pejibaye for a playful class III (intermediate) run. The high-volume Rio Revantaz³n offers both a class II-III and a class IV (advanced) section to choose from, depending on one's ability and desired level of adventure. The Rio Sarapiqui also offers a class I-II nature lovers' float trip, or a moderate class III day filled with abundant wildlife.
Less than an hour east of San José, Turrialba may be off the beaten path in terms of typical tourist stops in Costa Rica, but if you don't feel like rafting or are taking a day off, there's still plenty to do and see. Go for a hike or horseback ride up the crater of the dormant Volcan Turrialba. Enjoy the spectacular views on the way to the Parque Viborana, where you can watch a fascinating and educational demonstration about poisonous snakes.
Visit a nearby coffee processing plant, or hang out in town and have lunch at the central market - of course, choosing a sweet and tangy dessert from the piles of fresh tropical fruit. Call ahead for an inexpensive two- to three-hour tour of the nearby CATIE (Centro Agron³mico Tropical de Investigaci³n y Ense±anza), Central America's oldest and most respected tropical research facility.
Elsewhere in Costa Rica, there are distractions and attractions galore - beaches, surfing, nesting sea turtles, cloud forests, active volcanoes. When you plan your trip, don't overlook the rivers. Spend a day or two rafting or kayaking around Turrialba for a truly close-up view of some of the most luxuriant flora and fauna on the planet.
About the Country
Costa Rica is a stable, democratic republic with a well-educated population and excellent preventative medical and dental care standards on par with those of industrialized nations. One hundred and eighty-five miles across at its widest point, Costa Rica touches both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and boasts the most diverse selection of flora and fauna in the hemisphere, with 26% of its territory set aside for national parks, wildlife refuges and biological reserves.
When to Visit
The peak tourist season is from December to April (the dry season), but being so close to the equator, the day length and temperatures do not vary much from season to season. At sea level, for instance, you can count on balmy 23 - 32°C (75 - 90°F) weather year round.
Transportation and Costs
International flights to the capital city of San José arrive and depart regularly. Cars can be rented from one of the agencies at the airport and public transportation is an easy and affordable option. Lodging can be found for prices starting as low as US$4.00 for a dorm bed, with plenty of mid-range ($25-40) options offering additional facilities and volcano views.
About the Author
Judy Wolf is a freelance writer, speaker, and whitewater kayak instructor. She's taken numerous, extended solo journeys around the world, traveling by foot, bus, jeep, camel, truck, boat, train, plane, elephant and bicycle to over 30 countries on five continents. She currently lives in upstate New York with her husband and border collie, where she's working on a book of travel essays about her most recent adventures - that is, when she's not plunging off waterfalls or entertaining the dog.
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