Let's get one thing straight. Johannesburg is not a world cultural Mecca. Johannesburgers do not worship at the feet of "Arts and Culture".
But, working on the assumption that you're that rare animal - the traveler who actually wants to know more about the culture of the country you're visiting, and Gautengers stare at you blankly when you ask them to lead you to their nearest "Cultural center"; here's some ideas for one day.
The Johannesburg CBD is a good place to start. Ignore all warnings that it's a deathtrap. Follow the usual survival rules, and don't carry cameras, expensive jewelry, backpacks, or a neon lit sign over your head saying "I am a tourist" and you'll be OK.
Downtown
Start at the Johannesburg Art Gallery in Joubert Park. They have some interesting South African paintings, and a good tea shop from where you can get a view of the Park and your friendly neighborhood muggers.
If you're into architecture and interesting dichotomies, wander down Diagonal Street, and look at the muti shops reflected in the state of the art mirrored windows of the now empty stock exchange, which is lined on either side by buildings from the early 1900's. If your stomach's feeling strong go into one of the Muti shops, and buy a dried monkey, or have your bones thrown by a Sangoma, if they're in.
Newtown Precinct
Carry on down to the Afrika Museum in the newly renovated Newtown Precinct. Here you'll find a potted history of history and "the Struggle" (always refer to the "Struggle" in capital letters if you want to stay in with the lefties) as well as some interesting exhibits on the Geology and Paleontology sides. The exhibits change constantly, and they've just opened a museum of Science for Children which is worth a quick perusal. FUBA (The Federated Union of Black Artists) is in the Newtown Precinct, and you might find some interesting artwork, as is the Market Photography Workshop.
Just over the road there's the Dance Factory. Here you can see the work of young South African choreographers, or take part in an African dance class/a creative movement class/a ballet class, or watch anything from Spanish dancing, through to ballet, to gumboot, tap modern or a combination of all of them.
The Dance Factory is behind MEGA MUSIC, once in the forefront of South African music. This month they have Salif Keita from Mali and Femi Kuti (fela Kuti's son) from Nigeria, as well as Andy Narell from the USA and Bheki Mseleku from South Africa.
Wander back to the Newtown Precinct, and have an early dinner at the restaurant in the Market Theatre. It specializes in traditional South African/Afrikaans food. The food's great, the ambience equally good.
Market Theatre
Allow half an hour to explore the Market Theatre (world famous in the seventies and eighties for their agit prop theatre). An old fish and vegetable market, it still retains the ambiance of the market place, and is suffused with theatrical history, from the posters of Athol Fugard plays that had their first performance here, to Grammy and Toni award musicals like "Sarafina", "Kat and the Kings" (now on Broadway) that started here. You'll notice that white Johannesburgers are few and far between. They're nervous about their personal safety in the area and the parking. Don't be.
The Market has three theatres, and a theatre laboratory, and you'll generally find something of interest to see; either a local play or musical. At the moment, "Love , Crime and Johannesburg" is on at the main theatre, and "Ways of Dying" based on Zakes Nda's award winning book of the same name is running in the Barney Simon Theatre.
Before the show you can check out the Market Art Gallery upstairs. They have constantly changing exhibits by young South African artists.
After the show, pull into the bar, check out the signs from the old market for fish and vegetables that still liberally litter the place, before moving on to "Kippies" in the courtyard, which specializes in local jazz and afro fusion, with some of the top local and international artists dropping in for sessions.
Carfax
If you're now overdosed on Culture, go across the road to Carfax: 39 Pim street - a cultural party and fun venue that launches new artists of all sorts. Here you'll see exhibitions and some of the hottest alternative bands in South Africa like Boo, the Transvaal Goat Skin Company, or cross over opera set to drum box. As you enter Carfax, please leave all your inhibitions behind.
Civic Theatre
The Civic Theatre in Braamfontein is also worth a look. A more sedate Market theatre, they have three theatres and monthly art exhibitions. You'll find a more "mainstream" Theatre here, but still will be able to find local playwrights amongst the International. They generally have two major musicals a year. Either something like "Little Shop of Horrors" or a local Pantomime at the end of the year. After the show the bar offers revues, cabaret or stand-up comedy.
Alhambra Theatre
Just down the road, in Doornfontein, you'll find the Alhambra Theatre, catering for the middle-class white eurocentric audience. You'll get Broadway comedies, Noel Coward, or a few local compilations.
From either of these theatres, it's a quick drive to Louis Botha Avenue for a late dinner at the Radium Bar, a Portuguese restaurant with fantastic food, and a media hangout for journalists and TV types.
Down the road from here there's the 206 Live, a popular live music and groove venue with some of the funkiest bands and DJs. Tuesday nights are drum and bass nights. Saturday nights are retro funk and acid jazz from midnight. You can visit the 208 bar next door for more laid back, (and not so laid back) house parties every night. Next door to that they have Unda Tha Counta, a record store specializing in local music and alternative.
September is the Arts Alive Festival in Johannesburg. Music, art, drama everywhere you look. For more info check out this website: ArtsAlive.org.za
