Zen masters may say it is pointless to meet the Buddha, for Buddhahood is just a state of mind. Nevertheless, you can still meet the Buddha, his reincarnation to be precise, in the serene surroundings of Dharamshala.
Nearly 365 miles from New Delhi (map), this quaint little town in Himachal Pradesh state at the foothills of the Dhauladhar range is considered the ‘Little Tibet’ of India and is also the home-in-exile of the Dalai Lama and the Central Tibetan Administration (the ‘Tibetan Government-in-Exile’).
To reach Dharamshala, you can either take a bus from the New Delhi inter-state bus terminal (ISBT) or a train to Pathankot (Punjab state), from where Dharamshala is a three-hour bus ride. In both cases, it takes approximately 12-15 hours. But if a long bus ride isn’t your cup of tea, Dharamshala boasts a small airport too.
Once there, the first thing to do is to check into a hotel (Tip for budget travelers: $ 5 can get you a carpeted double bedroom with western-style toilets and hot water on demand). After you’re refreshed, you could either go for a stroll or proceed to McLeod Ganj village. Round about 6 miles from Dharamshala, this is where the world-famous Namgyal Monastery is situated. Just opposite to it is the official residence of the Dalai Lama. Jeep taxis are available at regular intervals. I tried to trek it out and though the scenery was breathtaking, energetic Tibetans gave me a huge complex.
The monastery isn’t McLeod Ganj’s only claim to fame. A 4-mile radius has interesting sites like the Bhagsunath temple, Dal & Kareri lakes, Snow Line and the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. Stained glass frescoes inside make it a worth-see.
If you want to check out traditional handicrafts and souvenirs for friends back home, the Tibetan market is the right place. Prices are flexible, so happy bargaining.
You could also include in your itinerary a visit to the Norbulingka Institute. Near Sidhpur, a 30-minute bus ride from Dharamshala, the institute is committed to preserving Tibetan culture through training students in statue-making, Thangka painting, applique work and tailoring, woodcarving and metal craft. Also, don’t miss the spiritual centre with its colossal gilded Buddha and the Losel Doll Museum’s unique collection of traditional Tibetan costumes. In December, Dharamshala celebrates the International Himalayan Festival and also commemorates awarding of the Nobel peace prize to the Dalai Lama on December 10, 1989.
Those with an extra supply of adrenaline could contact local tour operators (check out Eagle’s Height Trekkers) for treks ranging from a day to a week (up to altitudes of 3,000 metres and more – Dharamshala is at 1785 metres). Required gear is rented out by the tour organisers. Jeep safaris, mountain biking and jungle camping are other attractions. But just sitting on the bench at McLeod Ganj square and sipping tea while watching the world go by, isn’t boring either.
It may be an ancient township but one that has kept pace with changing times. It has its own share of Internet cafes and fast food joints. You may be surprised to see a couple of German bakeries! By the way, don’t forget to try out Tibetan cuisine, even though its pretty bland by Indian standards. On the finance side, Visa/Mastercards are accepted and there is no problem regarding money exchange.
If you’re interested in experiencing the core of Dharamshala (and also making some money), you could visit the Dharamshala Earthville Institute (DEVI), at the Khana Nirvana Community Café. They could help arrange a stay with a Tibetan family and volunteer opportunities as well. I found volunteers from all round the world. DEVI also offers advice for trip planning and ticket booking through Earthville Travel Adventures.
At the café, you can relax and enjoy fresh, all-natural vegetarian food and drinks while checking e-mail, surfing the Net, reading, writing or researching in a peaceful atmosphere. At 8pm every Monday night they have something called the ‘Acoustic Night’. You are supposed to come with your own poems, stories, songs or instruments. Good fun actually.
So the next time you pack your bags and are looking for a destination that blends the ancient with the modern, is peaceful and unpolluted and one that combines the wisdom of one culture with the rituals of another, Dharamshala could be just the place.
About the Author
I am an Indian journalist who loves to see new places (soft corner for the Himalayas) and make new friends. Life, I believe, is a great learning opportunity. So make the most of it and enjoy each day. Apart from traveling, I am interested in trekking, wildlife conservation, photography and astronomy.
