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Sri Lanka Travel Guide Jan 2000

By: Matt Baker

The People and their Island

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Sri Lanka, formerly known as Ceylon, is an island just off the southern
coast of India (about the size of Ireland but with 18 million people). The majority are the Sinhalese, who inhabit most of the south and are Buddhists. The main minority are the Tamils, who live mostly in the north and east and are Hindu. There is also a small minority of Muslims and Christians, thereby allowing Sri Lanka to have more religious holidays than any other country.

During colonial times, it was controlled by the Portuguese, then the Dutch and finally the English. English is still widely spoken today among businessmen, shop owners and those in the tourist industry. To Westerners, Sri Lankans look a lot like their Indian counterparts but although the cultures are similar, you will find Sri Lanka has it’s own unique attributes too.

Sri Lanka is a very laid-back, relaxed country. The people are extremely friendly. However, watch for those that are “too friendly”! Many locals are out to make a quick buck off tourists that don’t know any better. It helps to make like you know what you’re doing (even if you don’t) and if someone is bugging you, don’t give in – just be firm and if necessary, tell them to go away.

Top Places to Visit
Sri Lanka has three main parts: the coast, the hill country and the cultural triangle.

The Coast
Tuk-tuk

Colombo – the capital and only large city in Sri Lanka. It’s a good starting point, with the best amenities and shopping (try Majestic City). It is the only city with fast-food chains like McDonald’s (new in 1998), KFC and Pizza Hut. Colombo is also over-crowded and filthy so don’t stay there long – the rest of the country is much nicer.

Beaches – if you are a beach bum, there are many nice resorts in Negombo, Beruwela, Hikkaduwa, Unawatuna and elsewhere. Anyplace is good.

Galle – this port town has an old Dutch fort.

Ratnapura – the gem capital of Sri Lanka.

Hill Country

Kandy – the cultural and religious center of Sri Lanka. It boasts the famous Temple of the Tooth (supposedly home to one of Buddha’s teeth) and many other temples, including the large Bohiravokanda Buddha which looms over the city from on top of a hill. Kandy is famous for it’s annual Perehara parade in July. The Pinnewela Elephant Orphanage is also nearby.

Adam's Peak

Adam’s Peak – a mysterious triangular mountain which has become a center for thousands of religious pilgrims each year. Also known as Sri Pada, it is famous for a footprint on top, credited to Buddha, Adam and many others. See my Adam’s Peak travel story for more details.

World’s End – a 3,000 foot drop-off at the end of Horton Plains. Also has unique wildlife and a nice waterfall.

Nuwara Eliya – Sri Lanka’s highest town. It has a distinctly “British” feel to it and is home to one of Asia’s finest golf courses. It is a good center for seeing much of the hill country from.

Cultural Triangle

Sigiriya – probably the most interesting thing to see in Sri Lanka. Sigiriya is a huge rock fortress in the middle of a plain (a bit like Ayer’s Rock). You enter through the large sphinx-like lion paws and then climb to the top to see the ruins of a 5th century palace. It is rumoured that the rock had an existing plumbing system left over from some ancient unknown civilization. Warning: those who don’t like heights might find Sigiriya a bit scary.

Polonnaruwa – the capital during the Middle Ages. There are many ancient palace and temple ruins here, including some big statues carved from stone.

Dagoba

Anuradhapura – the capital during ancient times. Some of the ruins date from before Christ. Anuradhapura is famous for it’s dagobas (stupas), which at the time they were built were second only to the two great Egyptian pyramids in size.

Other sites – There are many other sites to visit, including both Hindu and Buddhist temples. I recommend the rock temple in Aluvihare and the Dambulla cave temple.

Other Misc. Travel Tips

One cultural tendency that threw us off immediately was the Sri Lanka “head waggle”. Instead of nodding their head to say “yes”, Sri Lankans wiggle their head back and forth (which looks like “no” to Westerners but really means, “no problem”!).

Every full moon, called a “Poya” day, is a Buddhist holiday and you might find things are closed.

Public affection between males and females is inappropriate in Sri Lanka. However, you will see many males holding hands or sitting on each other (This does not have anything to do with homosexuality).

Latest News
Sri Lanka recently held presidential elections and predictably, there was an increase in violence. President Kumaratunga held her office but prior to her victory, there was an assassination attempt in the form of a suicide bomb that left 24 dead and 107 injured (including the President).

Things have died down a bit but it’s worth watching the news closely. You’ll find the best coverage on either or CNN’s Asia Now or BBC’s South Asia.

Related Links:

General Information
Sri Lanka has everything a traveller could wish for: mysterious ancient ruins, lush mountains with cascading waterfalls, sunny beaches, friendly people, great food and a diverse blend of religion, culture and history. No wonder Marco Polo called it, “the finest island of its size in all the world”.

But is it Safe?
Generally, YES! (any travel has risks) Sri Lanka has been engulfed in a nasty civil war for decades but it has little effect on tourism.

Besides the occasional terrorist attack in Colombo, the war is very much limited to the area north of Anuradhapura, which is off-limits to foreigners anyway.

Note: the east coast, from Trincomalee to Yala National Park is also dangerous.

If you avoid these areas, the odds of being involved in any danger is about the same as your plane crashing on the way there (God forbid!)

Map

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Accommodation
There is a wide-range of hotels, from all-inclusive resorts to cheap rest houses.
Aitken-Spence Hotels
Jetwing Hotels

Transport
The best way to travel is to rent a van and driver. Driving on your own is not recommended.

For shoestring budgets, you can take the train (second class is good) or the bus. A/C “Intercity” buses are the best – find them at the “private” bus stands.

Around town, tuk-tuks (3-wheelers) are available. Make sure you agree on the price before you get in.

Dining Out
The main food is rice and curry but many other Indian style meals are available. Warning: Sri Lankans like their food hot and spicy! “Short-eats” are savoury bite-sized pastries or rolls and can be quick, easy and fun.

Weather
It is hot and humid along the coast and in the ancient cities, usually over 30°C. High in the mountains, it is amazingly cooler – as low as 5°C some evenings. The Monsoon (rainy) season pretty much parallels the Northern Hemisphere summer.

Cyber Cafes
I haven’t been to these but Lonely Planet suggests you try Cafe Internet (491 Galle Rd, Colombo) or Webster Internet (11 Hill St, Kandy).

Money

The local currency is the Sri Lankan Rupee (different from the Indian Rupee). Current exchange rates:
Rs 115 = 1 UK£
Rs 72 = 1 Euro
Rs 71 = 1 US$
Rs 49 = 1 CDN$
Rs 46 = 1 AUS$
The easiest currency to exchange is US dollars. Click here for other currencies.

What to Buy
Batiks, “Demon” masks, tea, gems, carved elephants, Buddha figurines, brassware, much more…

Health Tips
Don’t drink the water! Stick to tea, coke or bottled water. Check bottles to make sure they have the original seal and are WHO approved (World Health Organization).

The Author

Originally from Canada, Matt lived in Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka for a year while he and his wife were teaching English as a Second Language.