From Saigon, we organised a short tour to Can Tho and the Mekong delta. We travelled to the delta by bus, a 6-hour journey from Saigon. There were 18 people crammed in a 9-seater minibus, yet the death trap still managed to travel at over 90 mph the whole way. As we came across other minibuses even more overweight and overcrowded than ours, we cruised by without hesitation. Often this involved travelling for great periods on the wrong side of the “dual carnageway”. Oncoming vehicles were warned of our presence with our headlights and a selection of the on board horns. Our driver was obviously very adept at avoiding head on collisions! Against all probability, we didn’t crash once!
The delta is a meandering myriad of river channels that spans over South Vietnam and Cambodia. Can Tho is the unofficial capital of the delta and as a result is the best place to organise a boat excursion. A long boat is the only way to see the delta, and our tour not only showed us some spectacular sights, but also gave us a real insight into another of Vietnam’s varied lifestyles. The people of the Mekong are reliant on the river not only for fish, but also irrigation. The islands interwoven between channels have very fertile soils, and are ideal for fruit growing.
We set off on our boat trip at 4am, and saw the spectacular sunrise over the mighty river. At this early hour, the river people were already awake and working to avoid the scorching sun. Floating markets bobbed busily by the banks as fruit pickers combed the island orchards. These sights provided a stark contrast to the typical rice paddies, and again exposed the unmistakable differences between north and south. We had an enjoyable few days before heading back to Ho Chi Minh City for a flight to Bangkok.
Once in Bangkok, we organised the essential pilgrimage to Thailand’s famed beaches for some much needed rest and recuperation in paradise. We chose Koh Phangan Island, a small island on the East Coast of the Malay peninsular. With a week of travelling to go and nothing to do but relax, I was most definitely expecting to better the tan, and make the most of the good weather.
Once on the island, we found a small beach called Bottle beach. It was exceedingly isolated, and had no road access. The only way on and off the beach required catching a boat from the village around the coast. The sense of seclusion was truly incredible. We slept in a little shack on the beach that was surrounded by palms, and the beautifully clear sea concealed belts of coral reef just a short distance off shore.
Koh Phangan is also famed for its full moon parties. Every full moon, about 40,000 people congregate on Had Rin beach for a bit of a laugh. It’s a 24-hour affair, and the stretch of sand was awash with multiple temporary bars and food stalls in front of the beaches many clubs. It was all rather surreal, but in one night, we manage to meet 11 people that we knew. It really is a small world! Whether it was the location, atmosphere or the people, I can’t say, but it was certainly the best party that I have ever been too!
The journey back to Bangkok on the other hand was appalling. As the dual carriageway turned to winding tracks, it became impossible to attempt speeds of more than 30 mph. Nevertheless, our bus driver proceeded at a steady 90 mph, and rounded a bend to see a small hunk of matter in the road ahead. By the time we got close enough to identify the shape, it was too late. The hunk of matter was a dog. As I turned to examine the driver’s road kill, I saw another scruffy looking canine run out of the bushes towards its friend. It paid no attention to the bus behind ours, and also got unluckily crushed to death. When a third dog did the same, I was overcome by shock. As we continued on our way, I turned again to see a much larger hunk in the road.
Our arrival in Bangkok was a time for feasting and shopping sprees before our flight home. The bright lights and party atmosphere of the Khao San Road again readied us for western culture as we whiled away our final hours in the orient watching a Manchester United match in one Khao San’s many tourist hangouts. We left Bangkok to its mellow and ambient ways as we reluctantly headed to the airport. We succeeded in dodging the tiny white balls on the runway once more, and left South East Asia how we found it.
After a sensational and enlightening couple of month’s travel, we departed Asia with a realisation of all that we have yet to see. Ah well, I guess we will just have to organise a return trip in the near future!
