Mani Madness (3 of 4)

By: Roy Lawrance

Areopoli

On arrival at Areopoli, we checked into the best-looking hotel, which overlooked the square and was conveniently just yards from the one and only taverna. With the dust washed off, David and I set out to explore the village, which didn’t take long. In one of the back alleys, we discovered the local wine store with its barrels of superb local retsina while soon afterwards we discovered the local ouzerie opposite – both required sampling in the interests of research. Giggling like school kids, we later rejoined the others at the taverna and tried to order some food.

Suddenly the peace was shattered when a loud cavalcade of cars entered the square, horns sounding and music blaring. This pre-wedding tradition circled the square three times, in the customary fashion, before joining us at the taverna and completely confusing the owner with a set of new orders. What we ended up with was what we got and everything became 1000 drachmas regardless. It ended up being a late but memorable night, the wedding group becoming our hosts and generously including us in this family occasion.

We were woken by Phillada at 7:30am, who wanted to take us to the nearby caves at Pyrgos Dirou, a couple of hours walk south along the coast. After a tiring night, Anna and Richard decided to stay behind and rest. We left the village by ancient marbled pathways, our heads slowly clearing, a clatter of noisy grasshoppers clumsily scattering before our feet and the occasional snake slithering away from its warm paving slab into the dense thorny undergrowth. Few ever walk these paths these days, leaving them overgrown and difficult to follow at times – gaiters would have been invaluable, as would some paracetamol for last night’s festivities.

As my condition improved, I drew away from the group, twisting and turning along the beautiful coastal path with its fresh sea breezes, and ended up in the backyard of a house. The couple who lived there were having their lunch of a huge plateful of small fish outside, and, ignoring my apologies for invading their privacy, insisted that I sat down and join them for a glass of retsina. Reviving last night’s alcohol levels, I was soon in the party mood again as my hosts refilled my glass and a plate of fish was placed before me. Suddenly, I remembered that there were another 10 walkers heading this way and tried to explain.

“No problem, plenty retsina” was all they said as another jug of ouzo was prepared. The Greeks call it Filoxenia; literally ‘friends of strangers’. What, I wondered, would our reaction have been back home to somebody walking into our back garden when we were having lunch? Here, everyone was given a drink and a morsel of fish before we continued on our way.

An hour later, I found myself floating in one of Europe’s largest cave systems at Pyrgos Dirou. For 1000 drachmas, you are rowed for over an hour through an extensive network of caves by lamplight in a cool, bewitching underworld of surreal rock formations, especially effective when you’re half pissed. Leaving the boats, a 20-minute walk brought us back to the searchlight glare of daylight and the opportunity to warm ourselves in the sun, and, in my case, fall asleep. The long hot walk back to Areopoli later in the day only added to the level of sunburn I had unwittingly subjected myself to, and, at Phillada’s experienced suggestion, I spent the evening smothered in fresh yoghurt. I may have looked a prat, but it worked.

Profitis Elias

We were woken at 6:00am next morning for a quick breakfast and an early start to climb the mountain behind the hotel to find the chapel of Profitis Elias way up in the clouds. Anna and Richard again went for the rain-check. The first hour of ascent was in thick cloud which sat spectacularly in the valleys as we climbed above it, soon burning away as midday approached and the alpine flowers began to open. Peter, a keen plantsman in our group, was in raptures, running around photographing and identifying the floral gems that were bursting all around us.

“That was one of the rarest bee orchids you’ve just trodden on Roy” he commented. OOPS!

A packed lunch waited at the hotel on our return from the mountain, kindly put together by Anna and Richard, and we were soon on our way to the coastal village of Limena, a couple of hours ‘optional’ walk away. It’s good exercise I thought, though Anna and Richard once again stayed behind. Another thorny marbled path led to the coast where we spread out amongst the coastal rocks to enjoy a well-deserved afternoon of rest and a bit of skinny-dipping.

Next morning, taxis took us a few kilometres south to Kitta where we headed for the coastal trail that led to Mezapos. On the way, almost hidden amongst the prickly pear and impenetrable thorny scrub growth, we came upon the now abandoned 12th century church of Vlacherna with its beautiful frescoes of St. John the Baptist, complete with his head but sadly the victim of vandalised eye sockets. Our main baggage travelled on ahead in one of the taxis, along with Anna and Richard who were now allegedly suffering from bad stomachs.

Our walk took us to the Tigani peninsula (so called because of its frying pan shape) which is crowned with the ruins of Mani castle built in 1248 to defend the south-eastern Peloponnese. Here you can see the remains of ancient salt pans, carved into the rock along the shore and still in use until the 1950s. At the foot of the ruins are rows of roofless tombs cut from the solid rock and still containing remains of bones, a very eerie place. As we sat in this ancient setting eating our lunches, an eagle soared overhead carefully watching these strange intruders to its territory.

Leaving the Tigani peninsula and walking for another 2 hours brought us to the tiny village of Stavri where we had rooms booked in one of the old Maniote fortified towers that had been converted into a guest house. A stroll around the village, after freshening up, revealed Yiannis’ home made ouzo distillery. Here we were offered lucoumi (Greek delights) and home-made raki by Yiannis whose unfortunate affliction of the shakes didn’t bode well as an advert for the product, though you were only ever likely to get half a glass. We were joined by Richard who had been surgically removed from Anna and wanted to join in the sampling session.

“Ish my secretary you know … my wife thinksh I’m climbing mountains … Anna’s hushband thinksh she’sh on a painting holiday” Richard drunkenly confessed after a few drinks. Mystery solved!

Read all four parts of Mani Madness
Part One
Part Two
Part Three
Part Four