Livingston, Guatemala

Where To Stay
If you’ve been traveling hard, consider staying at the lovely La Casa Rosada, a pink hotel right on the river. You can have your boat drop you off here at their private dock if you started in Rio Dulce town. From the main dock, simply turn left and just keep walking for the equivalent of about 4 city blocks. This place is about $20 a person per night, with shared bath. It’s clean and friendly, but a little bit on the edge of town. They also have an excellent, if pricey, restaurant here, serving seafood and other local specialties. No phone.

On the other hand, if your backpacker juices are flowing, I would recommend staying at the secret Finka Arabu. Situated on the edge of the jungle, this place can be hard to find, even though it’s only a couple blocks from the center of town. The woman who runs it is a Canadian massage-therapist, who’s had this place for over 10 years. She’ll give you the grand tour as well as a brief history of the Finka.

There are lots of choice sites to pitch a tent or hang a hammock, as well as three cabanas complete with mosquito nets and an electric light. There is no running water, but the pit toilet has excellent reading material, and the “shower” is strangely effective with it’s multi-sized buckets. If you stay here, it will be because of the great atmosphere and the sounds of the jungle more than any kind of luxury. At night, when the jungle wakes up and mixes with the sounds of the reggae coming out of the clubs, it’s magic. A night here will cost you approximately $3 or Q20.

Where To Eat
For breakfast, I can’t think of a better place than the African Place Restaurant. From the pier follow the main street up the hill through the center of town and then make a sharp left at Cafetin Lili. If you have trouble, just ask, everybody will know where it is. The building is one of the strangest in Guatemala, with distinctly Moorish motive. Sitting at one of the outdoor tables, you can watch Livingston go by. I believe the banana pancakes here are the best in the world, or at least the best I’ve ever had. The orange juice and coffee are excellent too.

If you’re looking for a good lunch or dinner, any one of the many restaurants located on the main drag are good. Just use your judgment and instincts. The Bahia Azul is particularly good. The fish soups and pina coladas are delicious, even though you certainly won’t be the only traveler here. Sit outside and watch the town in action.

If you’re a vegetarian, the dinners at the La Casa Rosada Hotel are wonderful. They always have a vegetarian alternative, and the restaurant is situated right on the water of the Rio Dulce. It ain’t cheap, but it’s worth it if you want to splurge on a really good meal.

I hope that you enjoy these suggestions. I also hope that you’ll branch out and try any new or newly discovered places you find along the way.

What To Do
Besides just soaking in the atmosphere and listening to the Garifuna language over a cold beverage, Livingston also has some great things to see. If you want to see a really great beach, pay $8 for a speedboat ride to Playa Blanca. This white sand beach puts the seaweed strewn beach in Livingston to shame. It’s touristy, but you’re going for the sun and surf, not the culture.

If you’re interested in seeing some of the surrounding jungle, I recommend making the trip to the Seven Altars. Either an hour-long hike north along the coast, or a short boat ride from the main dock ($5 or Q40), this series of waterfalls is wonderful. Your climb over slippery rocks is rewarded by every new cascade. Take a dip in one of the clear blue pools before making your way back down.

In Livingston town itself, there are lots of atmospheric locations to explore. During the daytime, the local cemetery is beautiful, full of colorful tributes to lost members of the community. Also, a walk along the beach on the east side of town will bring you past local artisans and some of the good reggae clubs.

At night, if you’re looking for good music, it’s hard to predict which place will be best. Fortunately, Livingston is small enough so that the best acts are hard to miss. Do a preliminary investigation before committing to one bar or club. Also ask around to see if there are any special celebrations or events going on. Use your good judgment and stay where you like it.

Basically, if you relax and get into the local vibe of Livingston, you’ll have a great time here. Hope for sunny weather and make sure not to miss those banana pancakes. Enjoy.

©2000 Emma Beyn. Reproduction of this work and photographic images in whole or in part, including reproduction in electronic media, without the expressed written permission of the author is prohibited.

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