Places to Stay around Peten
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Stumble It!Getting There
Up until only a few months ago, getting to the ruins at Tikal involved either a 30 minute flight to Flores, or a painfully dusty 18 hour bus ride. Today however, the newly paved road system makes this same bus trip last only eight or nine hours, depending on the number of snack stops your driver makes. Even with a flat tire and mandatory engine trouble you'll probably get where you want to go within an hour of the official arrival time.
Buses leave for Petén five times daily from Guatemala City. In addition to picking up anybody from the side of the road, these buses also make official stops in Rio Dulce and Poptún along the way. The price varies from Q30 to Q60 depending on where you get on. Remember that you are more likely to get a seat if you board in town as people disembark than from the side of the road along the way.
Now that the trip is a relatively smooth ride, you'll find that taking the bus also allows you to make worthwhile stops in bizarre locales such as Finca Ixobel on the way up or down the peninsula. If you don't have a lot of spare time, I recommend that you either fly up or back to Flores and take the bus the other way back. This way you'll have enough time to experience the ruins at Tikal and also get to see some of the countryside from both the sky and the ground.
If you want to take a flight, there are several airlines that fly to Flores, Tikal's neighboring city. Every day there are at least five flights which should cost no more than about $60 one way. Up until now these flights were a necessity for travelers as the bus trip was too long and arduous, but the new roads make the bus ride pleasant and cheap. I have a feeling the airlines know this too, so expect that their prices may vary and there may be fewer flights to choose from.
The best way to arrange all of this is from one of the travel hubs, in Guatemala City, Antigua, Xela or Panajachel. With relative ease these travel agents can book you a flight and airport transfer for a small commission. Remember to ask if there are student discounts.
Places to Stay
When you arrive in Petén, you will undoubtedly find yourself either at the Flores airport or the bus terminal. You have three good options for accommodation here: staying in the miniature island town of Flores, staying in the tourist village right next to the ruins at Tikal, or staying in the town of El Remate halfway in between. There are numerous interesting and relatively inexpensive places to stay, but for obvious reasons, the closer you are to the ruins, the higher the bill.
FLORES is a lovely town reachable by either a fifteen minute walk across a dirt causeway or by a fifteen minute boat ride from the head of the causeway on either side. Unless you are way overloaded and can't bear to take another step, I would recommend just walking. The boat ride is silly considering the small distance, and by the time it loads up and gets going you could have crossed back and forth by foot at least once.
Once you're on the island, which you probably spotted from the air if you came by plane, you'll be astonished by it's size. You can literally walk around the perimeter of Flores in an easy leisurely twenty minutes. A truly tiny town. The tourists always seem to outnumber the locals, and of course this means there are a remarkable number of hotels. Here are two backpacker favorites:
Hospedaje Doña Goya is located on the far side of the island from the causeway. Just follow the road that runs along the perimeter of the island until you see the sign. The people who own it speak many languages including English and German. Try and get a room with a balcony. They do not have a phone. Prices are low, ranging from Q45 and up.
The best thing about staying at Posada Tayazal is the rooftop terrace, which comes complete with hammocks and lots of sunshine. Located a few blocks past the Doña Goya, this place is friendly and cheap. Prices range from about Q45. Telephone: 9260568
EL REMATE is my favorite place to stay around Tikal. And there's no place better to stay than at the bizarre and wonderful campground/bungalow accommodation El Mirador del Duende. Located right on the road to Tikal, just ask your driver to drop you here. Every mini-van and local bus passes by through El Remate between Flores and Tikal, so you'll never have a problem getting around.
Keeping the lake on one side, simply climb the carved white mountain stairs to the main building, a great white clay affair, and check in. Most likely, you'll meet the owner, a hilarious self-obsessed character named Manuel. You'll know him when you see him as he never wears a shirt and is always surrounded by young googly-eyed girls hanging on his every word. Quite a sight.
You have the option of staying in either a lovely igloo-like bungalow with an astounding view of Lake Petén Itza or pitching a tent or hammock on a strange overhanging white platform. Every night travelers gather on this platform to watch the sun set, hanging their feet over the side and pretending to be on a floating magic carpet. Yes, it's really like that.
One warning though: there are lots of monkeys! Be sure to put any small pieces of property or food safely away, as the local monkeys will literally be as bold as to come and steal a banana out of your cereal at breakfast, let alone take your toiletry kit into the jungle. This place also has a brilliant kitchen. More on that below.
Unless you have a tent or sleep well in a hammock, staying in TIKAL is probably out of any backpackers league, but maybe you've had enough of the trek life for a little while and just want to make it easy on yourself for a change. The little village here, neighboring the entrance to Tikal National Park, offers three hotels and the luxury of being able to walk to the pyramids at will, as well as an opportunity to watch the sun rise and set without stepping foot in a mini-van.
All three of the hotels here, The Jungle Lodge, The Jaguar Inn, and the Tikal Inn will cost you over $50 per night. Even though they often advertise rooms at budget rates ($35 and up) these deals are almost universally "booked up" or "unavailable." If you really want to stay here, just pitch a tent on the grassy knoll near the entrance to the park. Be warned though, the cold water is unreliable and the electricity even more so. In the wet season you will be eaten alive by mosquitoes. Instead, I would recommend staying in El Remate, 20 minutes drive south, where there is a beautiful view, excellent camping sites, and delicious cheap food at the ready. You'll just have to get up 20 minutes earlier than you would at Tikal.
