San Pedro: Guatemala’s Bohemian Stronghold – Page 2

Where to Stay

In San Pedro, the price of a private hotel room overlooking the San Pedro volcano is about $2 or Q15 a night. Nowhere else in Guatemala, or perhaps all of Central America, is life as cheap. In fact, just about everything here costs $2, whether it’s food, beer, or accommodation.

No matter which “end” of town you want to stay at, near the main dock or closer to the center of town, you will find good options.

Near the main dock and Nick’s Place, there are at two quality places to stay. Casa Elena is located a bit further along the road to the left beyond Nick’s Place. This six-room hotel right on the water is owned by a local Maya family. If you have a choice, take the upper level rooms, as they have hammocks and roof access. The bath is shared and the price per night is $2 or Q15. Very basic, but comfortable and convenient.

Another place to stay near Nick’s is the gaudy but functional four-story Hotel Valle Azul. This place is worth it just to watch the earth turn from the deck chairs on the roof. Lots of simple rooms for about $2 or Q15 per night. You’ll probably meet people here you’ve already met traveling somewhere else. It’s a real backpacker’s destination, and within easy stumbling distance to the local bars.

If you want to stay in between the two ends of town, head up the dirt path to the Hotel Ti’kaaj. Very popular with the “gringo trail” crowd, this hotel has basic rooms with shared bath for $2 or Q15 a night. Even though you aren’t right by the water, the courtyard, complete with hammocks and fruit trees, is a really comfortable place to spend a few hours. Their restaurant across the way is good too, with a great view of the sunset.

Closest to the “center” of town is the Hospedaje San Francisco. With the best long-term rates in town, there are quite a few backpacker who have taken up residence here. The patio and clean rooms are more than worth the nightly fee of $2 or Q15, but keep in mind that the location is the furthest from the night life scene near the main dock.

Where to Eat

Even though this town is quite small, there are couple excellent places to grab a bite to eat.

If you want Italian food, take a walk down the dirt path to Pinoccio’s. Great pasta and wine popular with gringos. Sit outside and watch the town walk by.

For the cheapest eats in San Pedro, visit the many comedores near the Santiago dock on the west coast of the village. Typical Guatemalan fare, including rice and beans, tortillas, chile enchiladas, and plantains. Also take advantage of their liquados and fruit dishes.

Overall though, Nick’s upstairs restaurant has something for everyone. Fresh-baked baguettes with a delicious variety of cheeses, vegetable soup with garlic bread, and excellent coffee and tea. The great view of the lake enhances the dining experience, as does the excellent company and service. Just about anything you can order here costs $2. Every night, they show a good film, usually in English with Spanish subtitles. Just about everybody in town shows up for it. Movie begins at 7pm.

What to Do

During the day, there are lots of good natural options. Climb the local San Pedro volcano in the early morning hours. This usually takes about four or five hours, and the views of Lake Atitlan are worth the struggle. If you just want to take it easy, climb up on some of those great big white rocks on the point and either swim or just catch some rays. The market is also a good place to go and buy some souvenirs or just watch the local Maya population go by.

In the late afternoon, the doors to the thermal baths open. Take away some of that traveler’s tension or recover from a trek up the volcano in soothing hot waters. You can also grab a bite to eat here while you watch the sunset.

Once the sun has gone down, there is the unusual San Pedro night life to take part in. At Nick’s Bar just about everybody comes out for the evening movie and then stay to drink Gallo into the early morning hours. Similar to Amsterdam, many people also open up the doors to their homes and create improv bars. Tort’s Bar and the Ti’kaaj terrace are also popular hangouts.

On some nights there is also a bonfire at the A-frame house just up the hill from the main dock. It usually only starts around 9pm or so. San Pedro is just small enough so that you probably won’t miss anything as long as you make the rounds. Enjoy.

©2000 Emma Beyn. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including reproduction in electronic media, without the expressed written permission of the author is prohibited.

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