San Pedro: Guatemala's Bohemian Stronghold
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Stumble It!This little bohemian stronghold has a lot going for it. Set on the shores of Guatemala's primary tourist attraction, Lake Atitlan, San Pedro is a marvelous oddball of a town.
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Enclosed by beautiful volcanic scenery and bright starry night skies, it seems normal until you realize it holds more evangelical churches than restaurants. And has thermal baths but no laundry. And dirt paths instead of streets. Somehow, this weird atmosphere works very well, and the ex-patriate set is in full force here. Many travelers meaning to stay a few nights end up staying a few months. If you're not careful, this place will suck you in.
To be honest, when you first set foot on San Pedro soil, it's not exactly a stunner. My first impression was "man, what a dump!" The smell of the rotting melon rinds strewn throughout the streets made it seem like the whole town was fermenting. But the local Maya population is incredibly friendly and helpful, and once the sun sets the place wakes up and the whole town comes out to play. There are lots of great places to eat and drink, along with some of the cheapest quality accommodation in Latin America. The sunrises and sunsets are spectacular, and the waters of Lake Atitlan provides a lovely opportunity for a swim or a sun bath. Since you can walk from one end of town to the other in 15 minutes, after a day here you'll feel quite at home.
San Pedro will probably be one of your most memorable destinations in Guatemala. You're guaranteed to meet some of the most bizarre and entertaining characters anywhere in the world. Enjoy.
Getting There
There are two ways to get to San Pedro, the easiest of which being by boat. From the town of Panajachel there are two boat docks with speedboats departing as soon as they are full (usually about 15 people). You shouldn't have to wait for more than a half hour. By speedboat you'll reach San Pedro in about a half hour, usually less.
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It's important to remember that the waves on Lake Atitlan start to pick up in the afternoon hours, so if you have a bad back or get seasick, you might want to consider taking the slower ferry or making the trip in the morning hours. The boatmen charge Q15 for the trip one-way, but the last boat of the day, leaving at about 6pm, will cost you double. The ferry service from Panajachel starts at 6am and runs about every hour and a half until 5pm. The trip takes one hour and thirty minutes and costs $1.50 or Q10.
The other way to get to San Pedro is by a combination of bus and colectivo. From Panajachel, you can board a chicken bus to Solola, where you will change onto another bus heading towards Santa Lucia or Santa Maria. These buses take a long time and the roads are terrible. The experience is a fun one if you have the time (this trip could take 2 hours or more) and energy, but overall, the boats are a better deal.
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Once you get as far as the buses go on the western side of the Lake, simply flag down a minivan or pickup, otherwise called colectivos, to take you the rest of the way. Make sure you bargain for a good price, anywhere from Q5 to Q15 depending on the time of day. In the other direction, towards Panajachel and Guatemala City, there are two early morning buses leaving from San Pedro daily. The bus is not recommended.
Arrival
Click here for a hand-drawn map of San Pedro that will open in a new browser window.
Unless you are coming from the neighboring town of Santiago, you will be arriving to the main dock, next to Nick's Place. There are always an assortment of kids willing to help you find your way for a small fee, but from here, you can only really go one of three directions.
To the right, along the dirt path, you'll first pass the Restaurant al Meson, and then come to the Hotel Valle Azul and Restaurant.
To the left, the cobbled street leads you past Hotel Casa Elena first, and eventually turns to dirt. At the basketball court, hang a right and follow the dirt path through it's twists and turns. You'll eventually pass a school and the Restaurant Pinocchio. Soon after, you'll see the thermal baths and restaurant on your left. The Ti'kaaj Hotel is marked by a courtyard with lots of people reading in hammocks. The Ti'kaaj Restaurant is across the street. Then you'll be back on solid ground. The Santiago dock and comedores are down the street to your left. The road takes a steep uphill to the right, straight into the center of town.
The third direction you could take from the main dock heads up the very steep uphill street ahead. This will lead you past a couple of churches to the town market. The Hotel San Francisco is on a street to the left down the far hill.
