Thinking About the Past (3 of 4)

By Philip Blazdell   |   March 1st, 2000   |   Comments (0)
Traveler Article


Historians of the time note that by the end of the 19th century, slavery in Brazil was declining under pressure from immigrant labourers whose wages cost less than the upkeep of slaves. Nevertheless, the “Golden Law” set off a reaction among slave owners that rapidly eroded the political foundations of the monarchy. After a few months of parliamentary crises, the Emperor was deposed on November 15, 1889 by a military movement that proclaimed the abrogation of the monarchy and the establishment of the Republic.

This institutional transformation, albeit profound, was surprisingly carried out without bloodshed. Although treated with all possible respect, the Emperor and his family had to be asked to leave the country. Accompanied by some close associates, they went into exile in France. Most of the leading figures of the country lent their support and collaboration to the new regime; among them was one of Brazil’s most outstanding statesmen, the Baron of Rio Branco. It was his wisdom and skilful diplomacy that enabled Brazil to end, by treaty or arbitration, nearly all its outstanding frontier disputes.

After a leisurely breakfast we drove to the town of Baturite. Founded in 1745, this town played a strong part in the story of slavery in Brazil. It was the town where slavery was first abolished, but today little evidence remains of the glorious past.

I was musing this fact over, leaning on a tree in the shade, when I fell into conversation with a local man who was on his way to the pretty market to buy some fruit. I told him I was fascinated that Baturite was the first town to abolish slavery. He chewed his gums for a while deep in thought, when he spoke, it was with the slow clear voice Brazilians use to speak to foreigners like myself, “Actually,” he laughed, “we were only the first town to abolish slavery because we were all too poor to afford slaves.” It stuck me as typical Brazilian logic and I couldn’t help but smile as he shuffled off.


I walked myself into the market and bought, for a small handful of coins (actually it was with two grubby notes, but I yearn for a more romantic view than current fiscal policy allows), a clutch of pitombas. I am told that there is absolutely no clinical reason why I should be addicted to this small lychee like fruit – like there is no clinical reason for my addiction to chocolate or exotic places, but still I need my daily fix. As I peeled off the thick outer skin and let the first initial flavour explode, almost numbing my mouth, I wondered how far we have really come. Pitomba is a real philosopher’s fruit. The effort required to strip the flesh from the generous seed and to extract every last ounce of intense flavour is not a task to be taken lightly. It is a fruit, like a fine brandy, to be taken seriously. I found a dense mango tree and sat in the shade, sucking fruit.

Slavery may have gone, but still today the richest 10% of Brazilians control a staggering 50% of the nation’s wealth, the poorest 10% have just 0.6%, sixty million live in squalor, 60% of people make less then the minimum wage, 40 million people are malnourished, 25 million live in favellas, 12 million children (roughly the population of the Netherlands) are abandoned and 7 million don’t receive any formal education. Brazil may claim, with some justification, to be free from racism and it is true that there is little visible discrimination between skin colours, however discrimination raises its ugly head in terms of money.

When the slavery was first abrogated, the newborn babies (or children from a very young age) were made free. However, their families were often not free and so liberation took place at a snail’s pace. Adult slaves were free when they reached the age of 60, but then had nowhere to go (they hadn’t been able to build up sufficient capital to make a clean break from their owner and were now too old. The slaves were free, but nothing more. Very few people tried at all to give them a good start.

This policy left a large population with little education, no money, and very little chance of bettering themselves. As one acquaintance told me we can’t equate poverty with stupidity anymore, as a nation we must take responsibility for our fore-fathers actions and do out best to reach out to this people with economic reforms, schooling and compassion. I would like to believe this sentiment.

Read all four articles about Thinking About the Past
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

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