Ireland on a Working Visa #5

By: Anthony St. Clair

April 11th
I remember once reading a travel article about a place that the author refused to identify, on the grounds that he or she did not want to make it easy for tourists to find and corrupt what was, to that writer and traveler, a place whose singular characteristics should not be sullied by the unappreciative.

At the time this concept appealed more or less on a purely technical, unemotional level; “What a cool gimmick” was probably close to my exact thoughts. Now, during my second day in Galway, I understand – I empathize with – that writer’s reasons, and I believe that writer could read this piece and understand why I am not going to reveal to you the identity of the place where I am enjoying and savoring this night.

For a non-smoking – read that as ‘cigarette hating’ – loner such as myself, who likes black coffee and Earl Grey more than shots and pints, this place is not only a haven: it could be heaven – and since when has heaven been easy to get into?

Sooner or later, I am sure this place will, like Garland’s beach, be found out. That other writer’s paradise, too, may even now face ambush and bombardment by pot-bellied soldiers uniformed in Bermudas and armed with cameras and traveler’s checks. Sooner or later, I am sure, this haven I have found will be found out; it is certainly no secret to the locals – it has been open for a few years now – and if it isn’t already known to the foreigners, then I’m sure it’s only a matter of time.

However, ’sooner or later’ does not include ‘now’ – and I intend to keep it that way.

The place I speak of, the place I write and relax in tonight, is a coffee shop – there is no use trying to hide what would be so easily discerned – and though I first found it yesterday, while exploring Galway’s side streets, it is only today that I have come in – first during the afternoon, and again tonight.

One more, unavoidable clue: the first floor is the non-smoking section; other than myself, this section is empty, just as it was this afternoon. When the waitress brought my Earl Grey, just a few minutes ago, I told her that it seemed like I was the only non-smoker in Galway. She laughed as she set down my tea, then replied, “You ought to see it at two in the morning. Then it’s not so empty.”

Two in the morning?

I reveled as she left: a coffee shop that is open until two in the morning? It can’t be! It is too good, too brilliant; not in this terrible disappointing world can such a beautiful thing be true!

And, alas, it isn’t: the menu told me so.

This heaven is open seven nights a week, until four in the morning: an all-night, early-morning coffee shop!

I could die here.

I could also live here, come to think of it. Perhaps I should have a chat with the management…

If you find this heaven, be sure you can stay awhile – because you’re going to want to (if you deserve to have found this place at all). Come especially at night, when the city has calmed, when the streets have emptied and the pubs have filled (though once the pubs and clubs have emptied, with the late opening time it gets quite busy).

This is a good place – candlelight, high ceilings, dark wood furniture; and deceptive, wonderful photographs of the human body hung on blue and yellow walls whose painted-over quotations (”There’s no such thing as strong coffee – only weak people”) are still visible – to have a quiet night, with a book, with a notebook or sketchpad, with a friend, with a lover, in this haven, in this heaven. Come to this place.

That is, if you can find it.

But I’ll never tell.

To Be Nice…
I will, however, tell you the names and locations of two great places to eat in Galway. Both are closest to Barnacles Quay Street House.

However, there really aren’t any two places in Galway that are far away from one another, so wherever you stay in Galway, both restaurants are close by. From Barnacles, however, the first is but a few doors down, towards the river, and the second is across the street and around a corner. Pretty simple, huh?

McDonagh’s Fish House, on Quay Street, is a bit of a Galway institution – as well it should be. Founded in 1945, the Fish House was serving up fish at a time when it was considered nothing but a poor man’s food.

For those who still cringe when taking out the wallet, don’t worry; fish may no longer be just for the poor, but McDonaugh’s prices and portions will keep both your wallet and your stomach full.

The Fish House is open for dinner but is especially good for lunch; a huge piece of battered cod, a large order of chips and a drink should keep you going for the rest of the day – and for about a fiver. In addition to the takeaway, you can also eat in-house.

Da Tang Noodle House, on Middle Street, serves up some of the best Chinese food I’ve ever had. If it isn’t a Galway institution, then Galway should damn well hurry up and make it one, the fact that it’s Chinese instead of Irish notwithstanding. The place is just too bloody good to be concerned with trivialities such as ethnicity.

Open for lunch and dinner (takeaway and delivery are also available), Da Tang’s fare includes some very nice soups (I highly recommend the Hot & Sour Soup) and starters. Mains are simple and filling, but won’t leave you feeling disgustingly full (perhaps as well because Da Tang doesn’t use MSG).

Dessert is extensive; wine costs only IRÂ£6.50 a bottle, and a pot of green tea (enough for two, but also enough for one, provided that, like me, you really really like your green tea!) is only a pound.

It’s possible to feast at the Da Tang for under a tenner, but if you go all out expect to spend closer to 15 quid. Don’t worry though: it’ll be worth it.