The Heel of the Boot – The Salentine Peninsula
It was a seven hour drive from Taromina across the straits and on to the heel of Italy – Puglia. The actual heel part is known as Salento and appears more like the Mani area of southern Greece than the rest of Italy. It is a barren land dotted with an apparent shower of rocks.
We knew we were in a different part of the world and headed directly to the coast and the quaint fishing village of Porto Cersareo. We arrived late on a Friday afternoon and quickly found the best hotel in town, the Lo Scoglio. It was perched on a small island just off the main harbor connected by a short causeway. We were pleasantly surprised by the warm reception and the quoted rate of $50 for the best double in the hotel. We may have been the only guests that nite. Everyone in Puglia assumed we were Germans since they seldom see Americans and we both have our share of Teutonic ancestors.
We strolled the harbor and watched the local fishermen repairing their nets before sitting down to a lovely dinner of “fritto misto di pesce” and “linguine vongole” (fried fish and pasta with clams). What else in this village? We washed it down with a Peroni and a carafe of the local rose vino.
The next day was the Saturday market in the charming village of Gallipoli about twenty miles south. You talk about watching some local culture. It was one of those times you wanted to be invisible and just observe. The open air fish stands ran for about a block on the wharf and most of the village was there to stock up for the week. It was a most satisfying experience well recorded by both my trusty Olympus (prints) and my Pentax (slides). Ed and I looked at each other with an acknowledgment that we had apparently arrived – mission accomplished!
Alberobello and the Land of the Trulli
Central Puglia has a congregation of small white-washed villages that are most alluring. We started in Ostuni that morning and made it to Martina Franca by noon. It was Sunday and most of the villagers were out in their go-to-church finery promenading through the local piazzas and stopping to greet their friends. The stunning Baroque buildings along the main streets made it more memorable.
We spent two hours here before heading to Locorotondo, a short drive north. The town takes its name from the layout of its alleyways constructed in circles around the hill on which it is set. It was on this drive through the fertile Valle dÂ’Itria that we first spotted these odd bee-hive shaped houses called Trulli.
Over the next 24 hours we would see literally hundreds of them. These strange, white, dry-stoned structures have conical roofs covered with grey stone slabs. Each dome corresponds to a room, with a tall chimney at the side of the building. Many of them are still occupied but others have been relegated to storage for farm equipment. We found ourselves stopping every mile or so for another photo opportunity. They were a captivating sight surrounded by fields of spring flowers. We were “trulli” hooked and our cameras were working overtime.
Alberobello is the capital of “Trulli-land”. And yes, the tour buses do find their way here. We found an adequate three star hotel just off the town square in this unique village where most of the houses are variations on the trulli theme. There is a designated tourist area at the edge of town called “zona trulli” with dozens of well maintained structures, many of which house small shops catering to the tourist trade. A bus load of Austrians who were sharing our hotel kept the shops open until well past dark.
Ed and I found the best local trattoria and had a well earned dinner. I think we started with Heineken and antipasto that night, and finished with a caffe gelato in the in the main piazza with the locals. It was “trulli” enjoyable.
Gaeta and Sperlonga
It was about a four hour drive in the rain across south-central Italy to our destination on the coast about an hour north of Naples. Gaeta is a sparkling medieval jewel placed high above a large natural harbor that is home to the Italian Coast Guard Academy and part of the US Navy sixth fleet. We checked in and immediately drove to the highest hill in town adorned by a magnificent pastel Duomo. It was the ideal vantage point for yet another photo op.
We walked up to and through most of the old city that evening, eager to get our daily exercise and trying hard to rationalize another great seafood dinner. It worked.
The next day we drove the coast road up to Sperlonga, another fishing village built on a rocky cliff above a fine harbor and beach. We were amazed at the fine broad sand beaches in this area. We agreed it would be an ideal location for a brief respite at the beginning or end of a southern Italy itinerary. It is only a two hour drive to the Rome airport and is enchanting.
The next day we were on the road by 0700 and took that drive. We were at the airport in plenty of time to have a cappuccino and reflect on our sojourn. It is not an itinerary for every would-be traveler to Italy, but it certainly met and exceeded our expectations.
About the Author
Bob the Navigator is a retired IBM executive who has turned his passion for independent European travel into a hobby and Trip Planning business. He has planned more than 50 customized itineraries to Italy, the Alps, and Iberia.
You can contact him at blittle@net-magic.net to inquire about his services.
