Author: Lynne Williams

Maine, New England – August 2000

Rockland: the Lobster Capital of the World
Rockland, right in the middle of mid-coast Maine, is a study in contrasts. It is a busy port, out of which scores of lobster boats work. Alongside of these working craft, a variety of pleasure craft have their places in the harbor, including Maine Windjammers, private sail and power yachts, kayaks, canoes and rowboats.

Rockland also has a strong arts community, and is the home of the Farnsworth Museum, site of a serious collection of 18th, 19th and 20th century American art, including work by three generations of Wyeths. And, unlike so many small and mid-size towns, Rockland still has a busy, working downtown, a place where residents and visitors alike can stroll, window shop and find both useful and fanciful items.

The Rockland Breakwater
The Rockland Breakwater is at the north end of town, and is well worth a walking visit. Construction of the breakwater began in April 1881 and was completed in November 1899. The breakwater is a little less than a mile long, and was constructed using more than 700,000 tons of granite. The Lighthouse at the end was completed in 1902, and was entered on the National Register of Historic Places in 1984. The City of Rockland took possession of the Lighthouse in 1998, and “Friends of the Rockland Breakwater” are now restoring it.

Go out to the breakwater, start walking along those huge pieces of granite, and soon you will feel that you are walking on water. The last time I went out there, it was very foggy (not an unusual occurrence in this part of the world) and after about ten minutes I could no longer see back to the beginning of the breakwater; nor could I see ahead to the lighthouse. I was standing on a pile of rocks, three wide, with waves splashing up on either side, with only the sounds of the gulls, the horns of the boats and the deserted lighthouse as company.

To Get There
Take Route One north (in Rockland it is Main Street) to the north end of the town. Turn right on Waldo (there are signs pointing to the Samoset Resort), then take the first right, Samoset Road, to the end. There is a small parking area, and a park and path, leading to the breakwater. The walking distance from mid-Main Street Rockland is about .75 miles.

The Lobster Festival
The 53rd Annual Maine Lobster Festival will be held this year from August 2nd through August 6th, at Harbor Park in Rockland. Although typically very, very crowded, this event is lots of fun. It includes the world’s largest lobster feed, cooked in the world’s largest lobster boiler and the food is absolutely delicious and very traditional Maine.

There are seafood related contests, such as clam shucking and sardine packing, an art exhibit and events for the kids. Many excellent performers appear on the music stage, which this year features Willie Nelson on Saturday evening. For information call (207)596-0376 or go to www.mainelobsterfestival.com.

To Get There

At the point where Route One makes a left in Rockland, and becomes Main Street, keep going straight towards the water. Harbor Park is to your right, with ample parking at most times. However, during the Lobster Festival, and other special events, look for the signs for parking areas as you approach the harbor.

Main Street
I have always believed that a town that hosts four bookstores in as many blocks is a pretty special place. As you walk along Main Street, stop in at the Reading Corner (#408), where you will find a good selection of books, particularly Maine and maritime related topics. Reading Corner also has a wide selection of periodicals.

At #438, you will find Dooryard Books, a used bookstore with a varied selection of titles. This shop is only open during the summer and early fall. Also on Main Street are Second Read Books & Coffee (#328) and First Baptist Bookstore (#488).

The Island Institute (#386), includes a street level retail venue, featuring books, arts and crafts, and other items with ties to Maine’s island communities. This space also includes a gallery, which is currently showing items from Rockland’s Shore Village Lighthouse Museum (#104 Limerock Street, two blocks off Main Street) and from the Maine Lights Program.

The Farnsworth Museum
The Farnsworth Museum is on the 300 block of Main Street, with a Wyeth Family Center one block behind Main Street. When you visit this art museum, I predict you will see paintings that you have seen time and again as prints, paintings that are truly classic Maine vistas. “Maine in America,” a permanent exhibit, traces the evolution of Maine landscape paintings. The Farnsworth is particularly known for its collection of work by three generations of Wyeths, N.C., Andrew and Jamie, who all worked in the mid-coast region of Maine. Work by Rockland-raised sculptor and painter Louise Nevelson is also featured at the Farnsworth. For information, call 596-6457.

Where to Stay
Rockland is filled with Bed and Breakfast Inns and guesthouses. Try the gracious Berry Manor Inn, 81 Talbot Avenue (800-774-5692, prices from $95 in season), or the historic Old Granite Inn at 546 Main Street (800-386-9036, from $95 in season). Go to “Historic Inns of Rockland” for a listing of additional lodging, as well as places of interest in the Rockland area.

Restaurants and Bars
The Waterworks (a half block off Main Street on Lindsey) is housed in what used to be Rockland’s waterworks building. There is a pub, with a full menu, as well as a dining room, and lunch and dinner are served. The food is hearty, with large portions, and there are board games for the kids to play. There is live music on Friday nights, and other nights as scheduled. (596-2753)

For a very special culinary treat, try Primo, a somewhat new addition to Rockland’s restaurant scene. Primo is housed in an old farmhouse and there are numerous small dining rooms, which make the experience almost like a private dinner. The food is continental, with a focus on locally caught seafood and locally grown produce. There is an extensive wine and aperitif list and wonderful desserts. With such good food, and very attentive service, Primo would be an excellent choice for a special dinner. Reservations are necessary. (2 South Main Street, about .5 miles south of downtown, 596-0770; entrees from $16.95)

The Time Out Pub is a fun place right off the Harbor. This two story bar and grill serves good food, has live music in the evening, and has a juke box, pool table and a darts set up. In this friendly place, you’ll most likely find someone to challenge in one of these games. (275 Main Street, 593-9336)

The Weather: August – September
As we say in Maine, if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes. So, be prepared for temperatures ranging from 60’s to 80’s during the day, about 15 degrees lower at night, maybe rain, maybe not, could be lightening, sometimes foggy, but always interesting. Be prepared.

Getting to Rockland
Route One goes straight into Rockland, or take Route 17 from the Augusta vicinity. Concord Trailways makes two trips a day from Boston to Rockland, along a beautiful route with stops in Portland and Brunswick. The trip from Boston includes two movies, one movie from Portland. (800-639-3317, www.concordtrailways.com for fares and schedules)

Maine

“He who rides and keeps the beaten track studies the fences chiefly.”

   –Henry David Thoreau, The Maine Woods, 1853

Welcome to my Guide to Maine, very much a four seasons state. Although Henry David’s three visits to Maine were to inland Maine, the mountain and lakes regions, the majority of visitors these days follow Route One, the coastal route, and miss over ninety percent of this beautiful state.

If I do anything with these discourses, I hope it is to introduce you, the reader, to the Maine that many travelers do not know. That includes coastal towns with walkable downtowns, inland lakes favored by locals, walks and hikes in impossibly beautiful areas and, a favorite of mine, specialty railroad runs.

Getting to Maine
Unfortunately, the car is king in Maine, as there is little public transit. The typical routes into the state are Interstate 95 and Route One to coastal Maine, and Route 2 to Western Maine. Maine is bordered on the west by New Hampshire, on the northwest and north by Quebec and on the east by New Brunswick.

A visitor could also fly into Maine, either to the Portland Jetport and Bangor International Airport. There are very comfortable Concord Trailways buses, which travel from Boston’s Logan Airport, and Boston’s South Station (the bus and Amtrak terminus), to various points in Maine. (1-888-741-8686, or their website for schedules and fares).

A wonderful development in Maine transportation is the imminent return of passenger rail to Maine. Although railroads were prevalent in Maine from the mid-1800’s on, and a key factor in the popularity of Maine as a visitor destination, the advent of auto travel put an end to Maine’s passenger rail system.

However, Amtrak will be returning to Maine, most likely in early 2001. There will be a line going from Boston to Portland, Maine, with a number of stops in New Hampshire and Southern Maine.

Even more exciting, is that there are plans to extend that line up to Rockland, most likely in mid- 2002, and link it to numerous ferries traveling to Downeast Maine, the Maine islands and the Canadian Maritimes. I will keep you informed.

Telephone
The area code for the whole state of Maine is 207.

About the Author
Lynne Williams, a resident of the Rockland area, is an attorney and writer. She travels extensively throughout the United States and Canada, most often by “alternatives to airplanes”, including trains, ships, riverboats, ferries, kayaks and snowshoes.

You can contact her by email at LWILL@earthlink.net.