Author: JR

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico – High Season 1999

On yer bike

For those tough types…
get on yer bike.

It’s still rainy season here, won’t finish till late October. So it’s still off-season, cheaper for the tourist who doesn’t mind a bit of warm rain.

Well, we had a spell where it didn’t rain for 6-7 days, but now it seems to be set in with the rain mostly at night.

Everybody is either building, rebuilding or renovating for the coming season, which will start around the beginning of November. Some restaurants give their workers a month off and close even though, by law, they still have to pay them.

Among the new places being built is a cheeseburger place on the Malecon. Come to Mexico, enjoy the culture and have a burger?…..Nah! Not for me.

I’m not against ‘burgers’, if fact one of my favorite places is Archie’s Burger a block up from the Malecon on Pipila (it’s a great hang out for SURFERS, and Archie has all the local knowledge). But burgers on the the Malecon (the ocean front promenade)? This town is presented as preserving it’s ‘Old World Charm’ and we already have a ‘Burger King’ and a ‘Subway’ facing the main plaza. I wouldn’t mind if they had an exterior that blended in a bit. Enough already!

Hate to say it, and I’ll probably get no end of flack about it, but these places succeed because the tourists use them. I’m afraid I don’t have a very high opinion of the crowd that makes up our present visitors. What we need to do is attract the more discerning tourist, like you lot reading this. If the more traditional and unusual places succeed, the others will fade away – I hope.

New Restaurant in Town

La Bodeguita del Medio

Yours Truly and Alejandro at La Bodeguita del Medio

There’s a new restaurant-bar in town, all the way from Havana, Cuba. ‘La Bodeguita del Medio’ was the favorite watering hole of ‘Papa’ Hemingway and we now have a branch here. The food is Cuban, the live music is by Cuban groups and the classic drink ‘Mojito’ was what ‘Papa’ drank. They also sell authentic Cuban Cigars. ‘El Patron’ Alejandro can guide you through the world of cigar appreciation.

Well, I included in my ‘Facts & Fables‘ page a rumor that the local electricity company was going to bury underground all those ugly wires that festoon this fair city. I treated it rather lightly knowing how things work here – talk is cheap, getting it done is a completely

different thing.

Several of our local papers report that the powers that be now say they will actually start work putting in underground wires…in 3 months time! (in the middle of our busy season) and will start to take down the ‘ugly wires’ starting…….November 2000! (again at the start of our busy season). But, of course this is still all talk!

Now, Now, don’t start to say how much I’m moaning, of course you’d like things to be perfect, but living in that sort of world would bore me to death. I really enjoy the uncertainty of everything here. It’s like being part of Quantum Mechanics or living in an Eastern mystical religion.

So, the more of you who come to hike or bike the jungle and surf, dive or fish the ocean, and leave your desires for Planet Hollywood (bankrupt, I hear – a good sign) behind, the more chance we have of defeating the likes of McDonald’s, Hooters and The Hard Rock Cafe in this town.

News

We now have CNN News on the radio, broadcast every hour on the half hour, thanks to StereoRay 99.9 FM. Just hope CNN cleans up it’s act. Many times in the past it has reported some sort of disaster has hit

Vallarta – hurricane, earthquake and so on – that has been totally inaccurate. Also on StereoRay on Saturday morning, from 10-12, there is a talk show in English about Vallarta hosted by my friend Richard

Kaplan with Local News by another friend Wayne McCloud.

Check your E-mail

At last count there were more than 10 places in town where you can now check your e-mail. Cyber cafes are a growing industry here, some are even in bars so you can enjoy your favorite brew as well as a coffee.

Typical cost about 15 pesos for 15 min. and some will let you check for free if you take less than 5 min.

Thanks to NAFTA, we are no longer denied those little luxuries that were once impossible to find. There is now a Sam’s Club (part of Walmart) here and such things as tender, high cholesterol, American steaks and French wines can be purchased. I remember the old days when people were smuggling in suitcases full of Snickers Bars and frozen lamb.

Turtles

It seems that this year is a bumper year for turtles here in Vallarta. On one small beach at the Camino Real Hotel there are already 25 nests containing nearly 2,500 eggs. Some nights up to 5 turtles have been

observed laying at the same time. These eggs are carefully removed to a protected enclosure and 45 to 50 days later, when they hatch, the baby turtles are carefully taken to the sea. These protected nests have a

75% success rate as opposed to 20% in nature. The estimated date for the first nest at this beach to hatch is Sept. 5th and everyone is invited to participate in the releases. Great for the kids!

Puerto Vallarta Resident

Puerto Vallarta Resident

One last note about a unique feature of Vallarta. That is it’s people, they are, by far, the most friendly group of people you will meet in Mexico. In fact, of all the places in the world that I’ve lived and visited, they are the best. I’m maybe excluding some of the upper crust, but they’re the same all over the world. The ‘common’ people are exceptional in their friendliness and generosity. I think I can count on one hand the number of arguments I’ve heard or seen in 8 to 10 years of being here. Usually it’s laughter and music.

Hasta Luego.
History

After the World War II, several G.I.s moved down to Vallarta, perhaps to recover from the affects of that engagement. Some set up businesses and some just retired, many to the north bank of the Rio Cuale which came to be

known as ‘Gringo Gulch’. Even before John Huston put Vallarta on the map with “The Night of the Iguana”, it was a

hideaway for the rich and notorious, who may have been driven from Acapulco by that resort’s popularity

with the masses.

Climate Year Round

The climate in the high season November-May – is warm 80 to 85°F, 27° to 29°C. After April and until about June

or July it will become increasingly warmer, to about 90°F or 32°C, and more humid.

Around June the rains begin, if you like drama this is for you. In the rainy season the humidity will increase during

the day until the rain comes, usually in the late afternoon, which at once reduces the humidity and leaves a

pleasant evening. But this is weather, so nothing is certain. Rainy season June – October.

Water

SEAPAL (Local Water Board) have consistently exceeded World Health Organization criteria for drinking water.

But, if you’re really worried, plenty of your favorite bottled water is available.

Geography

Located on one of the largest bays in the world, Vallarta benefits from protection from hurricanes and large waves, although good surfing can be had at the northern part of the bay.

Accommodation

There are many large American style hotels here, not in town thank goodness. Since there is a height restriction for building in town, the older,cheaper ones are here. Anywhere from $15 – $60 US per night.

Hotel Rosita

Hotel Rio

Transport

Bus

2.5 Pesos to almost everywhere, unless you go way out of town.

Example:

El Centro(the center of town) to Boca de Tomatlan (about 6 miles south) 5 Pesos. No longer do you share your ride with live chickens, at least I haven’t seen any lately. But you may have live entertainment, all for 2.5 Pesos!

Taxi

(by area-zone) local zone 15 Pesos , outside local area 22 – 42 Pesos. Before entering the taxi, ask the driver

what the fare will be to your destination. Tips are not required, unless you feel it is warranted. Tips from

drivers on where to eat etc. are not necessarily reliable (they will be getting a kickback).

Airport Taxi

These special taxis are only allowed to service from the Airport to Hotels and Condos, more expensive than regular ones. 80.00 – 200 Pesos depending how far. Ask first.

Money

The Peso is about 9.30 to the US dollar as of July.

Exchange Rates

The Casa de Cambios will give you less than the bank but also less lines. The best way is to use your ATM card, plenty of locations.

Cheap Eats/Dining Out

See ‘Vallarta-info-Prices

Pubs and Clubs

See ‘Vallarta-info-Prices

Arts Scene

Many Galleries in town with very well known artists. Many openings with music & free cocktails. See my ‘Happenings‘ page, only runs during the season.

The Outdoors

There is so much to do I again refer to my ‘Excursions‘ page.

Sunday Evening

After sundown on Sunday families, groups of boys and separate groups of girls, dressed in their best, will promenade

up and down the Malecon (sea front walk), the groups of young people will be making eyes at each other as they pass.

There will be vendors selling anything from ‘roasted corn on the cob’ to ‘brightly coloured windmills’ and balloons.

Street Kids

You are certain to be accosted by young children selling ‘chiclets’ and other things, some can be pretty pushy as well. Nearly all of these kids are being exploited by their parents or other adults nearby. We have, in Vallarta, support programs for these children in need. Please help by not giving them money or buying things from them, you will be helping them to stay off the streets and away from exploitation.

Interesting Facts & Fables

I was born and raised in London, England and went to the USA when I was 26. I have worked in so many

different occupations I can’t list them all. Photographer, Jeweler, Video Editor and Boat Captain are

a few. I have been visiting and living here in Vallarta for over 20 years and will not make the mistake of

leaving again.

Links

Mexico Life

Vallarta-Info.com