The West Coast – Milford Sound to Nelson
When they say the West Coast of New Zealand is the second wettest place on the planet, they were not wrong. I’ve seen my fair share of rain and water to last me for a lifetime.
Rather than doing the full four day hike on Milford Sound Track, we decided that due to the unpredictability of the weather that we would do a winter package special – transport to the track and two nights accommodation in the final hut, all for $90. Bargain.
Off we set, me with absolutely no experience, who only goes on long walks if there is a good pub in the middle!! The others were a different thing; an ex Dutch Soldier, an Alpine Guide, an Outdoor Freak and an Ex-Girl Guide, boy did I feel worried.
First day, great weather and a leisurely 18kms, with full packs, through some beautiful scenery, great lakes, rainforests and hundreds of huge waterfalls emerging from out of the moutainsides. Luckily the weather was fine, and after stops it only took 7 hours. The huts this time of year have no electricity, running water or gas, so to say that it was living basically was an understatement. Boy, does it get cold in the mountains at night without any heating. I think this was the first time I’ve slept in two sleeping bags, hats, gloves and four layers of clothing and still managed to feel cold…..
The second day was also very good weather and it was decided to walk to the summit of Mt. Hart along the McKinnon Pass. I have never climbed a mountain before, so imagine my suprise when I was told that it was 100 metres higher than Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest peak, a real challenge. No one knew the exact distances, and in the end it turned into 11kms one way, up some really steep sides, through some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen, snow peaked mountains, rainforests and Glacial lakes.
Due to the increasingly bad weather, by the time we reached the summit we had only 10 minutes to take in the view, which was spectacular, before having to head back to the hostel, boy were my legs sore. So 22kms round trip, with the knowledge that the return trip was going to be very wet!! Waking up to the sound of pouring rain at two in the morning, marked the low point. The next day was going to be long and wet, carrying full packs again.
Off we set early and within 5 minutes, we were totally soaked, beyond anything that I had experienced before. Walking through the same route was totally different on the way back, even more waterfalls and the footpaths had all turned into rivers. A wetsuit would have been more appropriate.
Wanting to finish, we managed the return 18km in six hours, getting to our pick up point over two hours early!!! So in three days, we had covered 58kms. My legs ached, but the effort had been worth it.
Next headed to Lake Wanaka, where we met up with more people we had met in Mt.Cook. We had been travelling together for over two weeks, but our paths were separating so it’s been decided that we will have a reunion next year. Two of people are Dutch, so the most logical place it has been decided would be Amsterdam, it should certainly be fun. Saying goodbye to people when you have been travelling is one of the hardest parts of backpacking!! From this point it rained constantly for five days up the west coast!!!
Four of us next headed to Fox Glacier, a Glacier surrounded by Temperate rainforsest, making the whole area very special. Despite the bad weather, it was decided that we should go on a guided walk, although the views would not be as special as they should have been. We used the only tour operators available, Alpine Guides, for a full day of Glacial Walking.
Equipped with crampons and ice sticks, it was a real step into the great unknown. Amazing experience, the glacier is ‘living’ and you can hear it creak and groan, with huge blue caverns, with melt water rushing below you, it’s all a very surreal experience. Due to the weather all the guides expected that we would want to head back early, but we all wanted to continue. However, the weather was getting worse, visibility bad, the ice even more slippery, and once we saw a mini avalanche. We all decided to call it a day early and I think that the guide was pretty relieved too!! Despite the dire weather, a great experience.
Next to Punakiki, for Pancake Rocks and Blow Holes, again ruined by the weather. However when a few of us left the pub and it was not raining, we knew that it was high tide. We saw the blow holes at 12:30 at night, huge plumes of water shooting out of holes in the rocks. In the moonlight, with no one else around it all makes it even more special, what travelling is all about.
I’m now in Nelson, the sunniest town in New Zealand. Thank goodness it’s living up to its name, beautiful blue skies and the sun, first time in five days. You almost forget what it looks like when you have been following low lying clouds and rain.
Yesterday we went sea kayaking around Abel Tasman National Park. Beautiful area lots of deserted beaches, seal colonies and other forms of wildlife, all of whom are amazingly close to your kayaks. Ocean River who we did the tour with are great, friendly crowd, great Bar-B-Q lunches (including good veggie options for me). All this helps when the weather is good.
In Nelson I’m staying in the smallest hostel yet, Shortbread Cottage. Twelve beds, cool owners who cook a different puddings every night for the guests, really homely and friendly.
I now have less than a week in New Zealand, which is depressing. Some hiking in Abel Tasman Park, drop the car off, and get to Christchurch ready for my flight to Sydney. I’ll mail once I’ve arrived.