Leaf Looking
It is now that time of year in New England, the time when the leaves become the big attraction. Not the lobster, nor the bass, nor the ocean, the canoe, the sailboat, but the colorful leaf.
Before I moved to Maine, I found the whole “leaf-peeper” thing to be a little strange. In Northern California, we had leaves; and, yes, they turned color. What was the big deal? However, when I moved to Maine I finally understood. These leaves don’t just change color. Rather, they morph into artwork, as gorgeous as any oil, watercolor or pastel.
The reason Northern New England produces the most vivid leaf coloration is due to this region’s typical fall weather – sunny yet cool days and chilly, but not freezing, nights. This combination of temperatures suppresses the production of chlorophyll, thereby allowing the natural colors of the leaves to emerge.
If you are considering a trip to New England to optimize fall viewing, consider taking a train. The fall roads are loaded with cars, and are basically the equivalent of Route One in the summer. You will be rewarded with incredible viewing without battling that traffic.
Maine Coast Railway
Riding the Maine Coast Railway was one of my most enjoyable rail experiences. Before the car began to dominate travel in Maine, railroads crisscrossed the state. Unfortunately, and many people think unwisely, the automobile put an end to that. However, those rail lines that remain offer some very interesting excursion runs.
The Maine Coast Rail usually runs between the towns of Bath and Wiscasset, in Maine’s mid-coast region. The tracks run not only along the water, but also over the various watery inlets and bays that abound in this region. Just looking out the window you will see many varieties of waterfowl.
Last year, we took the Maine Coast Rail Fall Foliage Tour, an hour and a half run between Wiscasset and Bath, during which the most incredible foliage I’ve seen highlights the wonderful shoreside vistas of the mid-coast region.
The Maine Coast Railroad also offers a three-hour, Wiscasset to Warren run. Rather than traveling south to Bath, this run travels north along the coast. Other seasonal rail tours are offered, such as a Halloween Phantom Express and a Christmas Express. For information about the Maine Coast Railway, go to their website. Fall Foliage Tours are offered on October 7th and 8th, 14th, 15th, 21st, 22nd; Halloween Phantom Express on October 23rd.
The Maine Maritime Museum
While in Bath, visit the Maine Maritime Museum. Dedicated to the preservation of Maine’s maritime heritage, this museum presents its exhibits in galleries and an historic shipyard, and also offers educational programs for adults and children, and narrated tours along the river and coast. This museum is truly a fun, and very interesting place, and should not be missed when visiting Bath.
On October 5th, the Museum is sponsoring a Foliage Cruise, from 9:00 to 3:00, reservations required.
The Maine Maritime Museum
243 Washington Street
Bath, Maine
(207)443-1316, Ext. 322
Open daily from 9:30-5:00, Adults – $8.75, Seniors – $8.00, Children – $6.00, Children under six are free.
Belfast & Moosehead Lake Railroad Company
Also offering Fall Foliage Tours is the Belfast & Moosehead Lake Railroad Company, based in Unity and Belfast. This excursion rail company is the country’s sixth oldest continually operating railroad. Chartered in 1867, the original plan included extending the line from Belfast all the way to Moosehead Lake, in the North Woods region. However, after installing 33 miles of track, the company ran out of money and the rest of the line was never built.
The railroad became a local short line, carrying passengers to their connections with larger rail lines, until 1960, when the Maine Central Railroad stopped taking passengers. Today the railroad is taking passengers again, this time on enjoyable and creative excursion trips, either in one of its diesel locomotives, built in the 1940’s, or in its beautiful Swedish-built steam locomotive, the “Spirit of Unity“, built in 1913.
The trip out of Belfast, on the mid-coast, combines a 90-minute tour through coastal woodlands with a 90-minute cruise of Penobscot Bay. Both the train ride and the cruise offer travelers (and those of us who are lucky enough to live here) a unique and comfortable way to tour the region, particularly in the fall season.
Belfast
Belfast is a coastal town with a walkable and interesting downtown. Main street, which leads down to the water, Front Street and the train station, has a number of bookstores, small cafes and coffee shops and restaurants.
The Weathervane Seafood Restaurant, at the Public Landing, offers a full menu of fish, shellfish and other seafood, as well as meat dishes. The view of the harbor is worth a trip alone. (Public Landing, Belfast, Maine, (207)338-1774)
Darby’s Restaurant has an eclectic menu, and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is housed in a High Street building that is well preserved, complete with tin ceilings and wooden booths and wainscoting. (155 High Street, Belfast, Maine, (207)338-2339)
If you are in town at the right time, try to get tickets to a Belfast Maskers performance. The Maskers are housed in the old train station, right next to the current station, on Front Street. (43 Front Street, Belfast, Main (207)338-9668)
This railroad also offers frequent, two-hour scenic excursions, round-trip between Unity and Burnham Junction, as well as a whole series of special event excursions, dinner trains and mystery theatre trains. Upcoming events include a Mystery Dinner Train in October, Halloween Train Shuttles for the whole family, the Thanksgiving Dinner Train and the Santa Express.
For those who will be visiting the mid-coast or who live in the region, take a trip on the Belfast & Moosehead Lake Railroad Company. It will remind you of the days when trains crisscrossed the state and you could take the train from New York City to Bar Harbor. That time will not be returning, but at least for a few hours this railroad, and the other short lines in the state, let you relax and enjoy the ride. (Belfast & Moosehead Lake Railroad Company, One Depot Square, Unity, Maine; Front Street, Belfast, Maine; 1-800-392-5500)
For information about Belfast, Maine: https://www.ezonline.com/aem/belfast.html
For information about Unity, Maine: https://www.uninets.net/~heron/unity.htm
The foliage peaks at different times depending on the region, Northern Maine peaking first, and the Southern Maine and New Hampshire coast the latest. Check out the Maine and New Hampshire foliage web sites before leaving.
“He who rides and keeps the beaten track studies the fences chiefly.”
–Henry David Thoreau, The Maine Woods, 1853
Welcome to my Guide to Maine, very much a four seasons state. Although Henry David’s three visits to Maine were to inland Maine, the mountain and lakes regions, the majority of visitors these days follow Route One, the coastal route, and miss over ninety percent of this beautiful state.
If I do anything with these discourses, I hope it is to introduce you, the reader, to the Maine that many travelers do not know. That includes coastal towns with walkable downtowns, inland lakes favored by locals, walks and hikes in impossibly beautiful areas and, a favorite of mine, specialty railroad runs.
Getting to Maine
Unfortunately, the car is king in Maine, as there is little public transit. The typical routes into the state are Interstate 95 and Route One to coastal Maine, and Route 2 to Western Maine. Maine is bordered on the west by New Hampshire, on the northwest and north by Quebec and on the east by New Brunswick.
A visitor could also fly into Maine, either to the Portland Jetport and Bangor International Airport. There are very comfortable Concord Trailways buses, which travel from Boston’s Logan Airport, and Boston’s South Station (the bus and Amtrak terminus), to various points in Maine. (1-888-741-8686, or their website for schedules and fares).
A wonderful development in Maine transportation is the imminent return of passenger rail to Maine. Although railroads were prevalent in Maine from the mid-1800’s on, and a key factor in the popularity of Maine as a visitor destination, the advent of auto travel put an end to Maine’s passenger rail system.
However, Amtrak will be returning to Maine, most likely in early 2001. There will be a line going from Boston to Portland, Maine, with a number of stops in New Hampshire and Southern Maine.
Even more exciting, is that there are plans to extend that line up to Rockland, most likely in mid- 2002, and link it to numerous ferries traveling to Downeast Maine, the Maine islands and the Canadian Maritimes. I will keep you informed.
Telephone
The area code for the whole state of Maine is 207.
About the Author
Lynne Williams, a resident of the Rockland area, is an attorney and writer. She travels extensively throughout the United States and Canada, most often by “alternatives to airplanes”, including trains, ships, riverboats, ferries, kayaks and snowshoes.
You can contact her by email at LWILL@earthlink.net.