That night we camped at an area below Mt Oakley and spent the night keeping the (very huge) possums out of our luggage and tent – little buggers kept wanting to rip the tent apart to get at the rations so we had to keep flashing lights at them during the night.
The overland track is full of amazing animals – Tasmanian devils, quolls and many types of roo, wallaby and paddy mellon (these guys are soooo cute!). During the walk we came across three tiger snakes (Taz’s most deadly) and two whitelipped whip snakes (also deadly) but we felt no fear of them. They were more worried about getting out of our way and being left alone. One big menace (besides the possums) was the crows at the lakes area. They had somehow learned how to open zippers and if you left your luggage unattended it would be raided!!
We were unable to climb Mt Ossa – Taz’s highest mountain (1617mt) – as the weather had returned to rain thereby making the mountain side like glass. I came across a trekker who had been doing the Overland Track for near 20 years and she said for the first 9 years she was unable to climb Mt Ossa. Now she was trying to make the DuCane Range climb – attempt #7. We met up again with her at Palm Valley – no luck!!
From Mt Ossa you can see the fabulous DuCane Range and also the Walls of Jerusalem – a place I really wanted to try out. DuCane Range is a sheer rock face, below it is the oldest hut on the walk, DuCane Hut (of course) which is approx. 100+ years old and has a photo gallery showing old photos of trappers. Surrounding the hut are the beautiful Lemonthyme trees which are protected in Taz. We had picked a great time to visit this area as the Lemonthyme was in full flower – just incredibly beautiful and very fragrant.
Not far from the DuCane Range is a group of waterfalls that are well worth the hard slog down and back again. This time the backpacks stayed up near the track – if anyone felt inclined to steal and carry near 40kgs for a further 30kms then they could go for it!!
On the sixth day we reached Palm Valley – what a delightful place. We had planned to stop overnight then take a day trek to the Labyrinth and the Acropolis. Instead, the weather turned and we ended up being holed up for two nights and a full day. Not to have fretted though, the people we were sharing the hut with – approximately 20 this time, were all great people with fabulous stories to tell and for me, I got to meet a wildlife photographer and bushwalker who is a bit of a legend in Oz – Rex Cox. That was wonderful. He had some great stories to tell about trekking throughout Oz and Nepal.
We all spent the two days holed up whilst the wind howled and the rain lashed the hut (not rickety this time) and it was an interesting time with the wet smelly socks hanging above our heads, a newly married couple on their honeymoon who didn’t budge from their sleeping bags and various nationalities all together. I wouldn’t have swapped it for the world (except for a clear day to go hiking to the Labyrinth and the Acropolis!!).
When the weather broke, so did we all. It was off to Narcissus Hut at the North end of Lake St Clair. When we arrived there, once again it was crowded with trekkers coming off the mountain. We decided, instead of staying another night then doing the last 20kms to the Southern end of the Lake, we would radio the Ferry to pick us up and take us back to civilisation (perhaps we should have stayed on the mountain).
We arrived at Derwent Bridge Hotel, sat in front of a roaring open fire and toasted ourselves on completing and making it on the Overland Track. It was Mal’s first beer in eight days and he thoroughly enjoyed it (couldn’t get him out of the bar actually). The next day we heard from trekkers coming off the mountain that it had snowed that night!!!
To anyone considering the Overland Track – go for it. Be prepared for the changeable weather and the most amazing incredible, stunning scenery you will forever remember. Even if your travelling alone, no problem, you’ll meet heaps on the track and everyone is very friendly, happy and has no inhibitions.
Read Part 3