Mazatlan Side Channel – Rosario

As an old river floater once told me, anyone could just float the river, but if you really want to see it, take a side channel. Well this month that’s just what we’re gonna do…

Located 76 km Southeast of Mazatlan lies the town of Rosario. Founded on August 3^rd, 1655 you might say it was born with a silver spoon in its mouth. The legend goes that while out chasing a stray cow, the overseer from ‘Hacienda de El Verde’ got his rosary snagged in a shrub. Not wanting to lose it he threw his hat on it so that he might retrieve it later.

Upon returning to the spot he decided it looked like a nice enough place to camp. Lighting a fire, he ate and settled down for the night. Come morning he awoke to find two things. His fire had gone out, but not before it had melted a streak of silver lying just below the surface. Word got out, as you can imagine, and Rosario was born. Soon after, it was found out there was gold there too…lots.

By the end of the 18^th century “Real de Rosario”, as it was now called, had grew to town of 7000 and was considered to be one of the richest places in the northwest. With something like 50 miles of tunnels dug in the area it was said to have more tunnels than roads.

Now with all this silver and gold comin’ outta the ground I would imagine three things quickly found their way to Rosario. Miners and hookers, followed in hot pursuit by the Catholic Church. Well the hookers are long gone but the church is still standing, as they say. And brother, what a church! The church was named “Mission of Our Lady of Rosario” and I can tell you that after 300 years of gold coming out of the ground, not all of it left town.

Now I was born and raised a Catholic, ain’t sayin’ I live like one mind ya, but Mama tried. I have been around the world and in my travels have had occasion to visit some spectacular churches. I don’t care what your beliefs are, the altar in this one will take your breath away. Now if you go to Rosario, when you visit this church and you look at this altar, for God’s sake try to remember not to say: “Damn…”

The church was built in what’s known as Baroque style. The altar is as big as a house and completely covered in yep, you guessed it, Gold! In fact, remember those tunnels I told you about? Well, someone forgot to notice that one was right under the church and the gold almost found its way back into the ground. Moved stone by stone it now stands in the town square, altar and all. And that, boys and girls, is your history lesson for today.

Today the town of Rosario is home to about 20,000 souls. About 10 km inland it lies at the southern border of the county of Mazatlan. Agriculture is probably the main industry here today followed closely by fishing, mining (I didn’t say they gave up) and forestry. Furniture and pottery making has also developed here. These are all well-known facts. Now for the not so well known….

Now I don’t usually promote tours, and I’m not now. It just happens to be the name of the place. There’s a B&B here called Real Mexico Bed & Breakfast~Tours. Here you get a 12×20 room with a private bathroom. Breakfast is served at 8 am. However, at anytime during your stay you are free to wander into town to get some locally grown and harvested grub and avail yourself of the common kitchen.

The price for all of this, you may ask? Yes you may, $30.00 US. And folks, that’s per couple, year round!

Imagine this if you will. You wake up to your prepared breakfast followed by a brisk hike into the Sierra Madres. Then maybe a trip to one of the local warm water lagoons where you cast for fresh shrimp, or maybe take a river trip with one of the local fisherman. Then find a nice remote beach and barbecue the day’s catch. Bring a camera, the vistas are stunning. A canteen and or small cooler is also handy. Bug repellent. Don’t leave home without it.

Or maybe take a day trip to Copala or Concordia, Tecapan, or several other local towns. (I would recommend Tecapan, you may well want to make this your next stop and it will give you a chance to get the lay of the place.) All sounds so quaint and peaceful right? Well be prepared cause it just might so happen that on that very evening there’s a local festival goin’ on and you will be invited, not just to come, but to join in. The Mexican people don’t need much of an excuse to throw a party. They have more holidays and festivals than any country I’ve ever seen with the possible exception of Ireland. But then the Irish don’t have tequila.

If you’ve got the time I recommend you set aside three days for this little side channel. I also recommend you bring one set of nice clothes for the party. Have you seen Romancing the Stone? Yeah, those kinda clothes. These folks go beyond friendly so if at all possible make this trip. It rates about a ten on the ol’ Capp-O-Meter for fun, friendly, inexpensive and beautiful.

Now, here’s the rub. They don’t take reservations, either by email or phone. The address is:

Real Mexico Bed & Breakfast~Tours

Rosario, Sinaloa

Lic. Enreque Perez, Acre # 61

Good Luck. Be aware that the mail in Mexico is slower than the last 12 cents at a pre-pay pump. You may just have to drop in. Remember, a true traveler has no set destination nor is he intent on getting there.

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