Acapulco et al., Mexico
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A friendly belch of smoke shoots forth from the fort signaling the arrival of half-a-dozen "naos" or Spanish trading galleons sailing into the safety of Acapulco Port.
Is this how would it have been in the year of 1650?
I contemplate the scene while standing on the stone parapet of San Diego Fort admiring the huge cannons now aiming across the bay with luxury hotels in their sights.
The Manila-Acapulco trade route flourished in the 17th century. Cargo, including spices, pearls, gemstones and silks were brought from the Orient. They were off-loaded and transported by wagon along the rough road to Mexico City, the "Camino de Asia". Some part of the cargo continued its tedious journey along the "Camino de Europa" to Vera Cruz port and across the Atlantic Ocean to Spain.
Wonderful Acapulco Bay was discovered by Spanish sailors in 1510. A port and shipbuilding facilities were developed to enable trade with the Orient and by 1523 it was linked by road to Mexico City, the capital of "New Spain". San Diego Fort, a massive 5-sided affair overlooking the bay, was constructed in 1616 to provide the port with protection from marauding pirate vessels.
Today, Acapulco thrives on tourism. The Pacific Coast of Mexico is dotted with luxury beach resorts that have sprung up like mushrooms to cater for North Americans and Europeans in holiday mode. Package tours bring hoards of visitors to enjoy a relaxed lifestyle of sun, surf and margaritas.
Like a pirate ship, our day-cruiser turns about and heads closer to shore. Jostling in the bow we modern-day pirates scan the white sands and coconut palms for signs of life, of hostile Indians or shipwrecked mariners.
The natural excitement and life-threatening hazards of a bygone era are today replaced by man's creativeness, both in thrill seeking and creature comforts.
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I admire the skill of wind-surfers with their orange sails, and the paragliders, red and white striped, towed behind speedboats, until they flop safely down to roost on the sands.
Men and women alike crave for adventure and romance. There is so little of it about nowadays in its natural form and so big business, seeing these needs, creates it for us. Very pleasant it is too, except in the extreme of being subjected to the torture of an horrific Arnold Schwarzenegger video on a long distance bus, a fate worse than being strung to the mainmast and given forty lashes!
The stress and competitiveness of modern city living creates the need for periodic instant relaxation, otherwise we snuff it at an early age. What could be better to relieve the tensions than a holiday at the Hyatt Regency Acapulco and the like?
Film stars, corporation presidents, salesmen, school teachers, stockbrokers, computer programmers - you name it - they flock here in droves, indistinguishable in their bathers, lolling in deck chairs in the shade of coconut palms, flicking their fingers to Mexican waiters balancing trays of ice-cold drinks and tacos.
The precarious nature of the NASDAQ, the worthiness of certain stock options or futures contract may be the prime topic of conversation, or - "Did you see that blonde sunbathing topless?"
So what's new? Pirates dreamed of treasure-laden galleons and bare-breasted Indian women.
The unreliable and doubtful pleasure of beach swimming in salty water is now supplanted by the alternative of a Disneyland of artificial hotel pools of azure fresh water surrounded by palm trees with fountains, waterfalls, slides and swim-up bars laced with canned music. The ocean is now obsolete! An Acapulcan beach resort could be built with same effect on the plains of Nebraska if you imported a few Mexican waiters.
The seaside resorts of Acapulco, Ixtapa and Cancún (Yucatán) may take their place as contemporary Wonders of the World, exceeding the past glory of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.
Seriously, they fulfill a need. They are very successful and lots of fun. They represent the excesses of the American good-life transplanted to an idyllic part of Mexico.
However, there is another exciting and optional way of enjoying the full spectrum of what Mexican beach resorts have to offer.
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Firstly, Mexican beaches are public property, or at least the tidal part. Anyone can walk along the beach and swim in the ocean, even budget travellers! You don't have to stay in a luxury hotel to do this! In reality, you may find several kilometers of beach front occupied by huge hotels with no public access between them to the beach. Not a problem!
You need a disguise! In bathers, dark glasses and towel, confidently sweep past the footmen and security guards, head through the hotel and gardens to the beach. Later you can check out the swimming pool, all bars and open-air restaurants and loll in their deck chairs.
But you must know the system. Hotel guests are immediately identifiable by a colored wrist band. No, they don't get free booze and snacks. It all goes on their account so for them no money is required. You will have to pay of course, even a few dollars to sit in a deck chair and watch the surf, but it's all worth it to enjoy being pampered.
Going north on the Pacific Coast is Ixtapa, a luxury resort full of glitz and gringos. Prior to 1970 it was a banana plantation. It is a mini-replica of Cancún with only three kilometers of fancy hotels instead of 20. It is worth a day's visit for an ocean swim and to admire the flocks of pelicans diving for fish in surf, but it is better to stay in nearby Zihuatanejo which is much more interesting.
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It is a tourist town and fishing village set on a beautiful sheltered harbour. There are plenty of economical hotels used by Mexicans and budget travellers. Ixtapa is only 15 minutes away by local bus. A boat trip across the harbour to the secluded beach of Las Gatas allows you access to calm, crystal-clear waters great for snorkeling and dozens of beach front bars and restaurants run by friendly locals.
Further north still is Puerto Vallarta, a real gem, and accessed from Guadalajara. This famous resort has grown uniquely - an old fishing village has expanded to cope with tourism but has not been overwhelmed by new hotel development. Cobblestone streets and old adobe buildings extend down to the beach front and mix it with modern hotels of modest size.
I paddle along the shallows as the sun sets. Tourists sit at candlelit tables on the beach. Waiters stumble in loose sand to bring dinners from the adjacent hotel. Others crowd the open-air bars and children splash around in the cool night waters.
To me, it seems that Puerto Vallarta has the best of both worlds - the old and the new, a happy paradise for Mexicans and tourists alike.
Getting There
Acapulco, Ixtapa and Puerto Vallarta, being Mexico's premier Pacific beach resorts, all have airports catering for domestic and international flights. There are direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Dallas and Houston.
The budget traveller is more likely to arrive by bus. First class is air-conditioned, very comfortable and excellent value.
Accommodation
Not a problem. Check Lonely Planet Mexico Guide for a selection of budget to midrange hotels. For luxury multi-star hotels check the accommodation section of the city web sites given. On my two excursions along the coast I have stayed at the same budget hotels listed below.
Possible Routes
Guadalajara to the coast at Puerto Vallarta, SE along coast to Zihuatanejo (Ixtapa) and Acapulco then inland north to Mexico City (optional via Taxco and Cuernavaca), or vice versa. Allow two weeks minimum for a leisurely trip.
Mexico City (optional via Taxco and Cuernavaca) to coast at Acapulco, then NW along coast to Zihuatanejo (Ixtapa), Lázaro Cárdenas, then inland to Uruápan and Pátzcuaro etc, maybe return to Mexico City, or vice versa. Allow 10 days minimum. Check Lonely Planet Mexico Guide for bus details.
Population ca 1.5 million. Essentially Old Acapulco, the Spanish colonial town at the Peninsula and extending ca 10 kms of beach resort hotels on La Costera, around Bahia de Acapulco.
Old Acapulco is ideal for DIY excursions (walk/bus) e.g., the historic zócalo area, Mercado de Artesanias, Fuerte de San Diego and the divers at La Quebrada. From the zócalo on La Costera, go by bus (3 pesos) to any of the beaches on the bay.
A boat trip around the bay is great, ca 100 pesos, 11am to 2 pm, plus many more activities.
Accommodation
Budget hotels are found in Old Acapulco near the zócalo and along Calle La Quebrada. Recommended is Hotel Asturias at La Quebrada 45 which has doubles at US$16, a sunny courtyard and swimming pool. Internet cafés are at Hidalgo 22 & 26 (30 pesos/hour).
Population ca 80,000. Fascinating tourist town with many beachfront bars and restaurants. Also, for traditional Mexican food try Tomales y Atoles Any at Ejido 15.
Accommodation
Popular is Hotel Raúl Tres Marias at La Noria 4, cost US$18 double, is close to jetty and shops. You have to cross a foot bridge to get into town. Great view.
Population ca 150,000. The old part of the city has many budget hotels but popular is Hotel Jazmín at Basilo Badillo 168, just a block from Playa de los Muertos. Cost US$16 double, with good restaurant next door.
Climate
Warm to tropical all year (day temps 25° to 33°C), possible afternoon showers June to September. Check weather now for Acapulco, Ixtapa and Puerto Vallarta.
Exchange Rate
US$1 = 9.6 Mexican pesos, but check the rate today.
The Author
You can visit Allano's web site by clicking here.
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