Not Just Your Average Nunnery - Florence, Italy
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Florence, Italy
It was a gloriously hot and humid weekend in mid-October when I arrived in Florence for the first time. It seemed like half of Europe was also there at the same time, and there was no room to be had at any inn at any price in the central historic city. In desperation, I turned to the local tourist bureau and a young man made a call and suggested I try a spot in the village of Fiesole in the hills above the city. As I was tired and the bus to Fiesole left from a nearby stop, I replied with a rapid "si". Armed with the name of the place and address, I enjoyed the short ride to a cooler and greener climate in a classy suburb. On the way, I remembered that this village was indeed featured in the British film Room with a View.
I arrived at the "Villa Linda" in a classy neighbourhood of sprawling villas. The front gate was locked but I pushed a bell and to my surprise, out walked a nun in full habit. She welcomed me in English and showed me to my room. I found out later this was no ordinary convent but a residential villa left to the order. The sisters lived in half the building and ran the rest as a B&B.
Each room/cell was stark white with the bare necessities including a large crucifix and an interesting sign on the wall in three languages that read: "Please do not smash the mosquitoes on the wall." The bath was nearby in the hall and there were clotheslines outside. There was also a dining room for breakfast, which included great croissants and cappuccino. Right at home behind the bar was the same 'welcoming' sister who was also a 'barista'!
The sister who welcomed me told me about the best places to eat in the area, so I nicknamed her Sister 'Mangia Bene'. She warned me to be back at the convent by 10 p.m. or else. The Trattoria Oswaldo was within walking distance and had beautiful food good prices and a garden setting. It was so good, I ate there the following evening as well. I arrived back before 'curfew', mindful to not overdo the vino at dinner! I slept like a log - no noise from the disco or bar in this establishment!
Breakfast in the morning at the convent was a lively affair with tourists speaking many languages - this convent either must have been featured in many guidebooks or else everyone else found 'no room at the inn' in Florence. After a walking tour of Florence with its famous Uffizzi Gallery and the Ponte Vecchio, I returned to the convent.
Well, I've stayed in many other interesting places in Europe, but not since in a "working convent".
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