An Aussie in Canada: Queen Charlotte Island Adventures

Just a short update after a fantastic couple of days out on the edge of the world. The overnight ferry out to Skidegate on Graham Island was long and bumpy, well “lumpy” is how they refer to it here. And they don’t have the bar open on night crossings! What’s with that? Two Aussies and a South African – what do they think we are going to do all night?

The early morning walk into Queen Charlotte ‘City’ (official but generous name!!) was serenity in itself – one of those times of day you always promise yourself to visit more often, but never quite do unless you have to. Saw blue herons, peregrine falcons and bald eagles. The “campground” was the front lawn at Joy’s house. No facilities to speak of, just an “intertidal washroom”!!! Surrounded by trees, right on the waters edge looking up the harbour, it was glorious enough.

After caffeine refueling we headed out to the Haida Museum, and were fortunate to be able to explore the work sheds where six new totem poles were being prepared for a huge ceremony early next month. 30 feet long, they were overflowing with stories and symbols, and it was a special moment to be able to touch the head of the eagle who will soon be towering high up in the sky. There were also two gigantic ceremonial canoes being prepared. Rich red cedar, painted and decorated with symbols, each canoe takes 14 rowers and 10 guests.

Walking around the mirror-like lakes on the Spirit Lake Trail we met Reg and Fudge, two local Haida natives who proved a wealth of information on the animals and traditions of the area. Reg took us out to Balance Rock where we were fortunate enough to watch a pod of 6-10 grey whales basking in the evening sun, swimming around, quite close to shore. Needless to say I took umpteen photos, snowcapped mountains and pine forests in the background. This is such a rich and special place.

The next day we hitched up to Tlell, a scattered arctic community on the east coast of Graham Island. Our hitch driver, Dale, has to be the best ever. He was just back from a visit to the dentist and had learned he didn’t need any work done, so provided us with a huge bottle of very potent beer each and proceeded to play tour guide and local information fountain. He took us for a long drive along the beach, pointing out marks of interest, and good camp spots, then deposited us at the only pub in the area, run by a grumpy old Scotsman.

A good feed and a couple of beers later, another local took us down to the road and we camped right out on the beach. Big storms are constantly blowing up driftwood so we had no trouble keeping a great camp fire going for the next 24 hours. Sat out under the stars all night, awoke to a perfect sunrise, eagles playing on the tidal flats. It was such a sensational spot that we did nothing but watch the ocean and the birds all morning. It’s great to learn how to slow down and be peaceful.

Now, a 24 hour bus journey back to Vancouver is ahead of me then it’s San Francisco here I come.

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