With the Sea Always On My Right: County Derry

County Derry

After Portrush, we turned inland and took the road around Coleraine then went on A37 to Limavady. What makes this place important is that Jane Ross lived here from 1810 to 1879. She happened to hear a traveling fiddler play a familiar song, that had been played around Ireland for many years. But she decided to write down the words and music to the Londonderry Air. This became Ireland’s most famous and sentimental song under the name it’s usually known by – Danny Boy.

The day was another clear and sunny one. We had splendid views of the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal just across Lough Foyle as we rode on A2 into Londonderry. Inishowen extends further north than Northern Ireland. Earlier, we had hoped to go there but we decided we had to start cutting a few corners if we were going to finish our circular tour. I was anxious to get to Londonderry because it is a walled city. These are some of my favorite places, from Carcassone and Aigues-Mortes in France to Xi’an in China and the four imperial cities of Morocco – Rabat, Fez, Meknes and Marrakesh.

The Walls of Londonderry

There was no traffic, or for that matter no people, so we were able to drive our car into the walled area, which I had been afraid may be only for pedestrians. We parked our auto just past the town square or the diamond, as it is called in Ireland. Walking along Bishop Street Within, we passed the classically-designed Courthouse, under restoration. We climbed up the steps by the Bishop’s Gate and came out on the walls. Derry’s walls were constructed between 1613 and 1618, the last city to erect these fortifications in Ireland and perhaps in all of Europe.

In ancient times, Derry was known as Doire (Oak Grove). Oaks held a special place in the Celtic religion. St. Columba came and converted the people in this area to Christianity. A monastery was built here in 546 A.D. The town’s name became Cholomcille Doire (St. Columba’s Oak Grove). The saint’s name is spelled three ways – Columb, Columba, and Columcille.

The Anchor Inn

Walking along the walls, we soon came to the Church Bastion. Beside it was the beautiful St. Columb’s Cathedral, dating back to 1628. Then we took the steps down from the gate at Ferryquay Gate, only walking about a quarter of the walled area. A pub, named the Anchor Inn, beckoned. We ordered two lagers. This pub didn’t sell any food but the owner told my TC (Travel Companion) he could go next door to the restaurant, get something and bring it in here. So TC got some chips, the fat, French-fry kind. It was a nice snack to get us through the day.

We ambled down Ferryquay Street back to the Diamond. There were people on the street as the shops were opening. I guess everything is closed on Sunday morning and opens at 1:00. My TC didn’t like the city being so empty. But I love a place without crowds and traffic so I was glad we got to see it like this.

We drove on Palace Street pass the Royal Bastion and turned on Society Street, noting the pleasing architecture of the Apprentice Bays’ Hall. Proceeding on Shipquay Street, we went out the Gate of the same name. TC parked the car for a minute while I got out and took some photos of the grandiose Guildhall. Constructed in 1890, it was gutted by a fire in 1908. It was the scene of violence in 1972, when it was bombed by the IRA. It was the headquarters of the Londonderry Corporation, which was responsible for discriminating towards Catholics in housing and jobs.

But how things have changed! One of the convicted bombers was elected to the city council in 1985. Today, the Guildhall holds concerts by the Ulster Orchestra. An opera was playing there at the moment. It also has had premiere performances by its native son, the eminent playwright, Brien Friel. I’ll say more about him when we return to Dublin.

Riding beside the River Foyle, we crossed over to the east side on the Craigavon Bridge. It’s a double-decker span, originally constructed for trains on its lower level, but now used exclusively for cars. We had seen the great mouth of the river going out of Lough Foyle into the Atlantic. Many Irish emigrants left from here to go to America during the famine of the 19^th century.

One other note of interest! Amelia Earhart landed in a field nearby here in 1932 on her historic, solo flight across the Atlantic. She mistook Derry for Paris! Also, the controversy about how to call the city is dying down somewhat. Staunch Union supporters call it Londonderry while Catholics drop the London part. I like to call it by both names.