Australian Time Out #10: Beautiful Brisbane
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Stumble It!10: Beautiful Brisbane
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Anzac Square |
Brisbane is unlike any city I've ever lived in or visited - it has all the hallmarks of a city, such as highrises, built up areas, plenty of malls, rush hour and traffic jams...but the vibe is extremely relaxed, laid back, and sleepy.
We were quickly let in on the secret by an English ex-pat who has been living in Brissie for years. Brisbane, he said, can't possible function like a bog-standard city because it's far too hot and humid. The stereotype of the sleepy and slow-thinking Queenslander is true, he proclaimed, but a by-product of the weather rather than IQ. Queenslanders tend to be regarded by the rest of Australia as being slow and backward (and are the butt of many jokes), which, understandably annoys them greatly.
I found Brisbane to be a fantastic city, because it offers both the convenience and culture of a big city, but with extremely friendly locals. Waitresses in cafes ask you about your day and actually are interested in what you have to say. Booksellers chat about where you have come from and point you in the direction of the library ('It won't break the bank').
Well, I was stunned. Along with the great people, Brisbane offers beautiful buildings, great facilities (the state library offers free internet) and jobs for backpackers. Plus a good transport system.
The first week we stayed in City Backpackers, close to the Roma Street Transit Centre where the Greyhound operates from. If you want party hostel, go there. Otherwise, steer clear. Dan and I spent our time in our double room unwillingly overhearing sounds of 'lovemaking', 'lovers' being shouted at by angry dormers wanting some sleep/trying to get into their room, drunks at 7 in the morning complaining about their sweaty crotches in their jeans and groups noisily swapping stories about their multiple conquests the night before (as you can guess, the walls were extremely thin). The last two straws on the camel's back - kitchen sets (cutlery, plates and cups) required a $10 deposit but on checkout you received $5 for the privilege, and when I needed a can opener at 8pm I had to go into the bar to find the night manager (a rift of can-opener robberies recently, I was told). The bar there was a good laugh though, and quite reasonable.
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Brisbane City Hall |
My favourite way to waste time in Brisbane - walk to the downtown area passing City Hall, a stately building (you can get a good view of the city centre from the clock tower, $2 entry fee) with plenty of surrounding benches and greenery. City Hall holds a small art gallery and regular free concerts. Walk around Anzac Square and the memorial. Have a lovely meal for only $3 after 2pm in the Broadway mall on Queen's Street and do some (window) shopping along the pedestrianised zone there. Turn onto George Street, former treasury (now a casino!) on the left, passing the University, and do some lazing around in the Botanical Gardens by the river. Ah, the pleasures of being a job-dodging backpacker!
Brisbane has no beach, but this hasn't stopped the council from building an attractive man-made one on the Southbank, across the river from the city centre, which boasts two large swimming pools constantly monitored by lifeguards, sandy and grassy areas for sunbaking, and several walkways past restaurants, cafes and street performers. Southbank houses the main cultural facilities in Brisbane, including the state museum, library, gallery and performing arts complex. Well worth a look. (For information on these facilities, go to www.south-bank.net.au)
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Brisbane's city beach, complete with lifeguard |
Fortitude Valley is Brisbane's 'alternative' bar, restaurant and nightclub scene, boasting cheap drinks, regular bar gigs and local DJs, and some great street cafes. Don't walk around after dark by yourself though as it is quite rough. Dan and I spent our last week in the Brunswick 'Best Inn' Brisbane, a very decent hostel with extremely cheap rooms. The owner is seriously nice too. This hostel has a quieter atmosphere and provides all cutlery and linen.
If you are looking for a job in Brisbane, Geoffrey Nathan has recently opened a new office there, so pop in and have a chat with them before you go into any recruitment agencies - they'll be able to give you a few tips. Apparently Queensland don't value the backpacker 'well-educated, low-paid' ticket as well as Sydney or Melbourne yet, but things are slowly changing, so don't give up!
At the end of our stay, Dan and I really wished we had maybe left Sydney earlier and worked for a bit in Brisbane instead, we liked it so much. It's attractive, friendly, and has great weather (always important!). Straddling both the Gold and Sunshine Coast, even a short weekend break can take you to some fantastic beaches and remote areas.
Things to do in Brisbane:
- Laze around by the 'beach'
- Lace up your walking shoes - Brisbane is compact enough to shun public transport
- Stuff your face in the great food courts
- Check out the cultural centre for some information about Brissie and Queensland
- Order a cup of coffee from the many street cafes and watch the suits wander by
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