Australian Time Out #11: Between Yuppieland and a Bushcamp I'll take the Chemical Toilet

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11: Between Yuppieland and a Bushcamp I'll take the Chemical Toilet

Gagaju

After two weeks in Brissie, the time had come to gather all the stuff littering our double room and get back on that bus. As we had a free night in Noosa, we decided to stay for a few days there, three max - as we had stayed in Brisbane for so long.

Our drive from the transit centre to Noosa Backpackers Resort we realised that Noosa is actually a general name for three satellite towns - Noosa Heads (Main Beach and Hastings Street), Noosaville and Tewantin (all built around the Noosa River). After we settled into the hostel and had a walk into Noosa Heads, we also realised that Noosa is a very exclusive resort; its beautiful beach and river, coupled with luxury hotels, fine restaurants and boutiques galore, makes for a sophisticated, wealthy atmosphere. We immediately realised that this was the antithesis of the Gold Coast; Noosa is the biggest beach resort of the Sunshine Coast, but where buildings cannot rise higher than the tree tops. And it attracts very wealthy, more 'mature' tourists, reflected by the prices on Hastings Street, Noosa's main thoroughfare. Seriously attractive, but not really catering to backpackers - we immediately felt out of our depth.

We had met a backpacker in Coffs Harbour who was on the way down the coast, and he had raved about a bushcamp located thirty minutes from Noosa Heads. He spoke of a canvassed backpacker heaven made out of recycled materials, friendly owners and residents, out in the back end of beyond - called Gagaju. Well how can you resist a review that good? Plus our travel guide, usually very snotty about their comments, positively glowed when it mentioned Gagaju.

Fire twirling

We were picked up from the transit centre in a beat up Merc, dropped off at the supermarket for supplies, and then undertook a journey that included a visual tour of a sand mining factory, mud and clear water pools, a farmer's gate and a very pot-holed road. Dan and I were apprehensive to say the least. And then it came into view - a little backpacker community in the middle of bushland - unfamiliar bird calls, hammocks, rays of light poking through the trees, circle of chairs around a well-used campfire, TV room, common area and kitchen made out of recycled timber and canvas, and - my first chemical toilet. Roughing it has never felt so good.

We both loved it immediately. The owners Andy and Matt were the friendliest hostel owners we had met - and extremely easy-going. We met people who had arrived months previously and were still staying there, aware that they had stumbled on something very special and unspoiled on the East Coast backpacker circuit. With such a laid-back atmosphere it was impossible not to relax, and relax we did; so much that we stayed a week and a half! We were offered a double room/massive static tent but there are great dorms available - at very reasonable rates.

Dan on the canoe trip

During our stay Dan and I watched impromptu fire twirling displays by fellow backpackers - some of the staff will show you a few tricks if you are interested. We took part in lairy cane toad races and went on a day canoeing trip down the gorgeous Noosa river to Cooroibah lake and back (half day and three day trips also available). But most of the time we listened to music, read books, and chatted about all kinds of subjects to so many different people, and felt glad that we had found somewhere to feel completely at ease, away from the madness of the hostel circuit.

Regular bus runs into the city and back allows for regular food and drink stock-ups, but we quickly grew resentful of leaving, even for just a few hours in civilisation. We regularly drew stares from tourists and locals alike for our unkempt appearances and bare feet. I walked into a pharmacy in Noosa Heads and the woman had a mini-class fit, not unlike the Pretty Woman shop scene!

When it was time to leave, we were both very sorry to go. We had met so many great people in the camp - it felt like the end of a great holiday. Gagaju is not a big backpacker business, it does not only exist to make money out of travellers - rather to offer something very unique - a slice of unadulterated, unpackaged Australia. If you are visiting the East Coast, make sure that Gagaju is on your itinerary. Otherwise you'll really miss out.


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