13: The Last Untouched Area on the Whole East Coast
Captain Cook was obviously running out of original names by then – or he was just sick and tired of being creative all the time – because he named 1770 (you guessed it!) after the year it was discovered. From this date on until about six months ago, the town of 1770 (or Agnes Waters, as the region is called) has enjoyed relative peace and quiet from the east coast madness, as its sole connection to the outside world was an unsealed dirt track, traversed only by Aussies in 4x4s. Six months ago they paved the road…throwing the doors open to the only town on the east coast which doesn’t have a nightclub!
The Greyhound dropped us off at an undisclosed area with no lights, nor people, around for miles – luckily a courtesy bus was there to pick us up otherwise we’d have been in big trouble. A friend had recommended the hostel Cool Bananas to us, a great find. The entrance is a large open-plan living area, opening onto a stone and wood courtyard with lots of hammocks and shaded areas. Dorms are situated on a two storey deck with French windows overlooking the countryside. And the BBQ dinners are a fantastic feed, definitely not just a sausage and a piece of bread!
The owner, Greg, is hyperactively keen for everyone to get out and sample the relatively untouched reef and national park ‘before it turns into another Byron Bay’. He explained that, before the bitumen road was installed, this was Australia’s best kept secret, open only to adventurous locals to do pretty much as they pleased. The one and only general store in town started selling alcohol several years ago – there were no police around for miles – and when the road was paved the Queensland Government threw their hands up in resignation and gave them a liquor licence.
Sensing a tourist boom, the government declared three large areas surrounding the town as National Park land to halt any unwanted expansion, and to protect the local Fitzroy Reef, which is relatively untouched unlike the Great Barrier Reef. They do allow diving and snorkelling trips but at a maximum of forty people twice a week, mainly to educate tourists and other Australians about conservation and how delicate the reef is.
Not that the locals dislike visitors, quite the contrary. They are hoping that backpackers will boost the area’s economy. And since tourism is very new to the region, all the operators offer extremely cheap prices for their tours and activities. Dan and I took a three hour surfing lesson for $11 each (I was standing on my second wave – easy when you are a short arse!) and a self-guided four hour fishing trip for four people, which included a ‘tinny’ (tin boat) a hand reel, bait, free pizza at the pub, sunset trip and a ride home for just $21.50! There are also many good value tours to the Fitzroy Reef and Lady Musgrave Island.
It was impossible not to meet and get talking to so many people, both in the hostel and around the town. Locals working in the supermarket would regularly strike up conversations with us. Such a friendly, laid-back area. Our visit there was extremely relaxing and enjoyable; as Greg put it, it’s a great place to recharge the batteries between Hervey Bay and Airlie Beach.
Get there quick or the developers will beat you to it!
