Chasing Horizons #2: Crossing into Nepal – Nepal

Crossing into Nepal

On Monday, March 11 we were woken at 4:30 am. The plan was to load up two 4×4 Land Rovers (they are TATA jeeps, very popular in India). We left as planned at 5am to miss the worst of the traffic. But, typical of India, there is never “no traffic”.

We made it out of Varanasi no problem but as the morning wore on the roads just got more busy. It took 10 hours to get to the India/Nepal border. In some places the road had been washed away by previous floods and the towns were gridlocked with traffic. Not a pleasant trip.

We were checked out of India by the border official at Nautanwa and once we had loaded our backpacks up the corrupt official then asked for his “baksheesh”. Well, he asked the wrong travellers, we just walked straight out of India and gave the corrupt git nothing.

After a 100m walk we were in Nepal and the difference was amazing. Friendlier people, less traffic and more space. It was a short bus ride to Bhairawa where we checked into the Mt Everest hotel for the night.

Next day and a local bus ride east along the Mahendra Highway and we were in Sauraha on the boundary of the Chitwan National Park. This little village was very quiet but geared to catering for the recent increase in tourists. We relaxed, drinking beer (beer is more available in Nepal, unlike in India where I struggled to find beer outlets) in the great rooftop restaurants for the rest of the day.

On Wednesday we started with a canoe ride for 50 minutes then the rest of the day we walked through the jungle looking for rhino, elephant, tiger, sloth bears and deer. After a couple of close encounters with rhino I was ready to pack it in but unfortunately we were due to finish at 5 pm. So the day turned out to be long and tiring and I did suffer a sense of humour failure with our guides.

We overnighted in a basic camp in the park and the next morning was more walking and a 4×4 ride to the 20,000 lakes. This was a very tranquil place where we had lunch. Once we returned to our luxury hotel in Sauraha I crashed out for the rest of the day, the last two days being hard work.

Finally, on Friday, March 14 we caught a tourist bus to Kathmandu. The scenery was dramatic. The road rose up into the foothills of the Himalaya with jade green white water rivers passing below.

I have two days in Kathmandu where I will do some sight-seeing and making arrangements for the big trek to Mount Everest. Bad news is that I now have a bad case of the runs. The food in India and Nepal is good but no matter how careful you are it eventually takes its toll. Nothing too serious, no pain or nausea, just can’t be too far away from the nearest loo.

So that brings things up to date. I see the South African cricket team still can’t beat those Aussies, hopefully the Stormers will continue their good run today (NSW got a lucky win – damn).

Will write with more when I return from Everest around 5-6 April.

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