Chasing Horizons #23: Into The Top End - Darwin, Northern Territory, Australia

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Australia is so vast (and often so empty) that I needed to take to the air for some stages as I traveled across this big country. Coupled with the fact that my time Down Under is somewhat limited, I took a domestic flight from Perth, arriving into Darwin on Saturday, September 28, 2002.

Now I'm not the most confident flier around, being particularly nervous when the flight is making its approach to land. I put up and deal with the necessity of having to fly for the sake of travelling to far off places. It was on this Qantas flight that I must have experienced my worst attack of nerves ever whilst flying. Towards the end of the flight when the pilot had already switched on the seat belt signs, we hit a patch of turbulence. Nothing unusual with that, it happens all the time, but over the next 60 seconds, it got progressively worse. So much so that at one stage the plane took a stomach turning dip, causing most passengers to exclaim or scream.

For the next 20 minutes or so I fell to pieces. I hyperventilated and sweated buckets for the rest of the trip. I made stupid promises to myself that if I survived the flight I would never take another plane again. I was in a bad way. Of course, the rest of the journey was uneventful and we landed safely at Darwin's airport. I soon recovered and yes, I will be taking my next flight. I will just be a little more apprehensive than usual. Could this be the beginning of a larger phobia in the making?

So, I am in the Northern Territory, or the Top End as Australians like to refer it. NT is not classified as a state. A motion that the NT should be granted statehood was narrowly defeated in a referendum in 1998 - what where the Northern Territorians thinking? All Australians are required by law to vote in federal elections and national referendums but because the NT is not a state these votes are not actually counted and the NT representatives attend sessions of parliament but don't actually vote on motions and have no consequence. The Territory is the most barren and least populated part of Australia with only 1% of the population living in 20% of the country area. And it is really hot and humid here. It hit me smack in the face as I disembarked, still shaken, from the plane.

Darwin, the territory's capital, however is the most cosmopolitan of cities. I expected it to be hard-bitten with rough and ready locals, a bit loopy caused by spending too long isolated from the rest of the world. No, Darwin is a lively modern place with a young population. Their lifestyle seems easy going and carefree. Darwin still has a somewhat frontier town atmosphere, no skyscrapers pierce the skyline here.

Mitchell Street runs the length of Darwin City set one road back from the coast. Most of the hotels, pubs, cafes and bars are located along its length. I had arrived on AFL Grand Final day. Aussie Rules Football is probably Australia's most popular sport and today was the cumulation of the season where the Brisbane Lions were playing the Collingwood Magpies, from Victoria. The final was being played in chilly Melbourne. I quickly dumped my bags in my hostel room. I was staying at the Globetrotter Inn where the pub was packed with travellers and Australians alike to watch the game. I was looking to get the full-on Australian experience so, ignoring the full pub, headed off to find a good old fashioned Outback pub watch the AFL Grand Final.

A short walk down Mitchell Street I found what I was looking for, The Sportsman Bar, a 'blokey' sort of place with pool tables and pokie machines. This establishment was also packed, but this time with rugged, sun-browned locals most wearing shorts, singlets and flip-flops. I soon entrenched myself with a stubbie (small bottle) of beer in the inevitable stubbie cooler (polystyrene or neoprene jacket). I soon had to make friends with some local Australians so that I could have the relatively simple AFL rules explained to me. The Lions won a highly entertaining and closely contested final, 75-66. The game was in the balance until deep in time added on and I have been told that this was one of the tightest and closest AFL finals in recent times.

That evening after a couple of hours of R&R on my dorm bed I headed out, with my roommate Simon and my newest chum, to discover some of Darwin's nightlife. The whole scene that greeted me as we walked along Mitchell Street reminded me more of being back in Asia than Australia. All the roadside trees were strung with fairy lights and restaurants with dining tables spilling out onto the pavement were full of patrons enjoying the balmy evening. There was surprisingly little traffic around this capital.

And then I found a little part of South Africa here in the Top End - Rorke's Drift Cafe Bar. On 22 January 1879, Rorke's Drift in Natal, South Africa was a mission station and base for about 120 British Soldiers. The bulk of the British army was elsewhere fighting the Anglo-Zulu war. 4000 Zulu warriors advanced on Rorke's Drift in a clandestine effort to deliver a brutal assault. The committed British force fought bravely and fiercely for twelve hours before emerging victorious. An unprecedented 11 Victoria Crosses were awarded to the defenders. So here was a bar in Darwin honouring this battle which took place so far away. It was decked out in the style of an old British pub and was full of military memorabilia. Best of all they were holding a all over body painting competition and the place was packed. Simon and I settled in admire the 'tasteful' artwork along with many ice cold beers.

Darwin has seen its fair share of calamities. It is the only part of Australia to suffer a prolonged attack from a warring force. 64 air raids were launched by the Japanese during WWII, sinking many naval ships at anchor within Port Darwin and severely damaging the harbour breakwater. Despite the heat I walked along the Esplanade and explored Bicentennial Park which is littered with war memorials. As I looked out over the calm waters of the Timor Sea I was reminded that below the water's surface is a veritable graveyard of sunken ships. These days many are used by recreational divers. At the end of the Esplanade I found the delightful Old Police Station and Courthouse, built from cut stone and beautifully restored. I crossed the road to Survivors' Lookout which is perched atop a cliff and has a great view of Darwin Harbour. I also found some interesting interpretive displays complete with old WWII photos retelling some of the Japanese bombing missions.

By far the most devastating disaster to hit Darwin was Cyclone Tracy which built up over Christmas Eve, 1974. Initially residents thought the worst was over when the front of the cyclone brushed over the town. So whilst the Darwin's population where complacently asleep in their beds the back end of Cyclone Tracy hit. After midnight winds hit in full fury, at 3:05 am the airport's anemometer was blown away just after it recorded a wind speed of 217km/h. Sixty-six lives where lost and over 11,000 houses (50%-60% of the city) were destroyed. These days many of Darwin's buildings have been cyclone proofed but I still wouldn't like to be around next time a cyclone decides to pay a visit.

Every Thursday and Sunday evening a famous night market is held at Mindil Beach. On Sunday evening I headed west out of the centre of Darwin until I came to a headland overlooking Fannie Bay. I picked my way down to the long stretch of beach lined with a promenade, sports complex and casino. Amongst the tall palm trees at Mindil Beach was a bustling night market with food, clothing and souvenir stalls selling everything Asian, Indian and traditional Aboriginal. There was also a high tech didgeridoo band blaring out very good traditional music. The place looked like one big day out for local Territorians. It was packed with family groups with picnic tables and chairs and esky's (cooler boxes) overflowing with food and beer. It was so crowded in fact it was often difficult to tell which group belonged to which. Quite amazingly as if following some predefined script everyone moved enmasse to the flat sandy beach to watch the spectacular sunset into the Timor Sea. It was such a social event and I must admit I was quite caught up in the whole occasion.

Saturday, 5 October, was going to be my last day in Darwin. I started the day quietly and pleasantly enough by catching up on emails. By lunchtime when I had headed back to the hostel my (new) roommate, Jim from Ireland, was just surfacing from his alcohol induced slumber of the previous night. To kill time Jim and I sat in the sun drinking a few cold ales, how he does it I have no idea.

I had arranged a lift out to the northern suburbs of Darwin to watch some local club rugby matches. Late afternoon I got a lift with a couple of the players to the familiar surroundings of a rugby ground. Casuarina Cougars were playing Darwin Tigers and this being the last game of the regular season the winner of this game would qualify for the knockout stages of the competition. The Cougar coach took one look at me and asked if I wanted a game. A few of his forwards had been taken ill and he was looking to make up his squad number. Now, I love rugby and loved playing before I retired in 1994. I must say I was tempted but on reflection I knew I was never fit enough for a full game of rugby and I didn't want to risk serious injury or let the lads down, so I thankfully declined. The Cougars easily turned over the Tigers and I was honoured to be invited back to the players' local suburban pub for much jollying and merrymaking.

I got back to town late at around 10:30pm to find Jim still entrenched outside our dorm room, very inebriated and not a drop of grog left in our bar fridge. Needless to say he was as keen as I to head out for a night on the town. So a quick shower and change of clothes and we were off. Up to this point I had spent a few nights out in Darwin and I can say it was quite pleasant but with me missing my family and friends so much I had always turned in earlyish. So why on my last night with an early start the next day did my subconscious decide to have one of the biggest nights out since I have been away? We hit a couple of bars (including more body painting at Rorke's Drift) then onto the night clubs. Jim and I made many friends and I had none of the self-control that usually drives me home early. I lost Jim around 1am when he was evicted from the Hip-e Club by the bouncers for being too intoxicated. I phoned friends in the UK at 3am (5:30pm their time) only to hit one last club instead of hitting the sack.

Would I make to 7am Wayward Bus out of Darwin to Alice Springs?




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