Into Sydney and Out of Australia
Along the East Coast, I had purchased a Cairns to Sydney bus Greyhound/McCafferty’s bus pass. This type of travel is very popular with backpackers as it lets you be flexible for the validity of the pass – in my case, one month. I was fortunate, I had no problems, the long hauls had been bearable by being able to snatch some sleep and I had broken the journey up into many shorter legs. All that was to change on my last overnight ride through New South Wales into Sydney. Firstly, the bus was packed and I had been seated alongside a huge fellow, and with me not being the tiniest person in the world there wasn’t much room to manoeuvre. Secondly, the bus driver, who had an odd eastern European accent I couldn’t quite place, thought he had a wicked sense of humour but only managed to come over as really annoying. Thirdly, the video being shown, some crap real life/cartoon comedy starring Bill Murray, was possibly the worst movie ever made. But what really got my goat was that the bus driver had a go at me, complaining that the music from my walkman headphones was disturbing the other passengers. Now I know it wasn’t me, I could here the guy’s walkman next to me, even with my own on, but I wasn’t about to rat on him. Anyway, out of spite I packed my walkman away and the stupid, dumbass driver still had a go at me about the loud music.
The bus travelled through the night. The trip wasn’t too bad, I broke the monotony by reading my book and snatching 40 winks every now and then. The Pacific Highway is a modern, dual carriageway so we seemed to make good time. It was just unfortunate that by travelling at night I missed much of the NSW countryside.
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Sydney Harbour Bridge |
We were driving through the northwestern outskirts of Sydney when dawn broke. My first visit to Sydney had been three years ago so I was anxious to spot some recognisable landmark. Then we arrived at Homebush Bay and there it was, Stadium Australia. It had changed somewhat since I had last been here – gone were the wing-like grandstands at each end. These had been demolished after the 2000 Olympic Games. Now the place took on a sense of familiarity as we drove the last stretch into Sydney’s Central Station.
I first met Alex and Phil at the Chitwan National Park in southern Nepal way back in March. We had met each other over the next few months in Kathmandu and Bangkok. The last time I had seen the couple was when our paths crossed in Malaysia. We had always kept in touch and now Alex, and nurse from Ireland, and Phil, who manages investment portfolios, had jobs in Sydney and were pretty settled. They had kindly invited me to doss down in their flat at Bondi Junction. I caught the efficient suburban train from central Sydney. It was a few stops on the double decker train and I noticed that despite the underground nature of the route it in no way effected the reception on my cell phone.
It was still early and I caught Alex and Phil before they had left for work. The flat was luxurious in a tall block. I was tired and decided to have a sleep before taking advantage of the indoor swimming pool complex that the residents are able to utilise. Being a weekday, I had the place to myself.
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Sydney Opera House |
That afternoon I decided to reacquaint myself with Sydney’s CBD. Sydney is Australia’s oldest and largest settled region. It is built around one of the most spectacular harbours in the world. I arrived by bus at the southern end of Pitt Street and walked up through the commercial heart of the city. The monorail that rides a circular route connecting the CBD to Darling Harbour enthralled me. It runs at the level of the first floor, often using the building foyers as station platforms. I spotted many of Sydney’s famous icons that feature so prolific in travel brochures. The green expanse of Hyde Park a mere couple of blocks from the ornate Town Hall. At the top end of Pitt Street, I made my way through a pedestrian mall to come out at Circular Quay where cross-harbour ferries have their terminus. As I walked around the quay I had great views of the sail-like shells of the Opera House, and the Harbour Bridge, which looks like a coat hanger. Circular Quay is right next door to the Rocks, a spur to the west of Sydney Cove that is the oldest part of city. The precinct was once squalid and derelict where an outbreak of bubonic plague and the construction of the harbour bridge contributed to its slump. Redevelopment has seen the narrow cobbled streets, colonial buildings and converted warehouses become a major tourist haunt.
I then caught a bus to the inner-city suburb of Kings Cross. Many travellers start and end their adventures Down Under in the Cross – it has long been known as the vice centre of Sydney and I wanted to check it out. I arrived on the main drag of Darlinghurst Road to find it a cocktail of trashy strip joints, gambling dens and low-lifes shaken and stirred with a handful of classy restaurants, designer cafes and yuppies. Apparently, Sydneysiders are quite fond of the Cross, appealing to their larrikin spirit.
That evening my kind hosts entertained me with good, home cooked food and we caught up on each other’s news.
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Archibald Fountain |
The next day was Wednesday, 27 November, my last day in Australia. I found myself back in town doing some last minute souvenir shopping at those gift shops invariably run by Asians. Although they sell predominately-typical Aussie stuff like stuffed koala and kangaroo toys, they are all made in the Far East and shipped to Australia for huge profit. Once again, in an effort to lighten my luggage I was packing up a shoe box of junk I had collected and shipping it back home.
For lunch I did what most Sydneysiders do, I bought some take-away lunch and walked into Hyde Park to settle down on a park bench underneath a grand avenue of trees for some peace and solitude. At one end is the very dignified ANZAC memorial and at the other end the delightfully wonderful Archibald Fountain. To the east I was drawn the imposing bulk of St. Mary’s, Sydney’s oldest cathedral.
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St. Mary’s Cathedral |
Life was not all drinking and partying. That evening Phil took me down to his local park where I got a game playing touch rugby. It was a lot of fun; the team was a mix of locals and British ex-pats, testament to the cosmopolitan makeup of the population. Actually even this bit of exercise ended up with drinks with the lads at a local bar. After a quick shower, Alex joined us when we headed down to Bondi Beach for a pleasant meal outside in the warm evening air.
Alas, very early the next morning I left before anyone was awake having said my goodbyes the previous night. The shuttle took me to the airport where I caught my flight to New Zealand. I had arrived in Australia over two months ago and had cross-crossed the country, taking in the most amazing sights and scenery. Australia is huge but as big as the country is it is so diverse – from modern, first world cities to the backwater outback, I loved every part of it. I hadn’t seen all there was to see, Tasmania and Canberra remain reasons for me to come back for a third visit to the country.
