September 2001 – Edinburgh, Scotland

A Sudden September

I took a stroll through Edinburgh this morning, relishing what would be one of the last days of summer. Although the sun was still shining, its rays weren’t as warm as last week, and a crispness was evident in the air. The streets I walk down are getting quieter, and with the holiday season ending the pavements are less crowded; the boxing skills we all learn throughout the festival, what with all the weaving and side-steps, are no longer of use. A few students returning to university join the waning crowds of tourists, who have either missed the festival or have stayed on, hoping that the buzz that filled the city throughout August would carry on for a few more days. But it’s inevitable: the month of September carries the end of the festivals and the beginning of autumn; the Fringe office doors are locked, and the street performers have packed up their guitars, jokes and fire clubs.

I wander down the Royal Mile now; free from the hassle of having leaflets thrust in my face or trying to keep out of the shot of a camera-wielding tourist. The road is reserved and quiet again. Only the muffled sound of an old man playing his bagpipes at the top of the Mound reaches my ears. That’s the main thing I’ll miss: the lively and pulsating music that fills the city during the Festival, the wildly varied and worldly sounds that conquer the streets, bringing the city together

I begin to wonder where all the freaks go in September. Sure, most of them are just in Edinburgh for the month, dressed up like the runt offspring of Edward Scissorshands and Dame Edna, with the sole intention of promoting their shows, but I know some of them are for real. This is the only time of year when they can confidently walk down the street with an assured smile on their faces and actually blend in. Fair enough I suppose, but where do they go now, back into the woodwork? Back to Glasgow? Maybe they take off their makeup and fishnet tights, re-don their suits, and with a slightly less assured smile, head back to the office. But I guess that the freedom of the festivals, a whole four weeks of madness and excitement, is a justified opportunity to do whatever the hell you want. Our month of immunity.

Course, just because the festival is over, doesn’t make Edinburgh any less inviting. In fact, I could honestly say it’s a better time to come. The hordes of tourists have gone, and Edinburgh feels like Scotland again, rather than Disneyland. Whatever your interests, whatever you feel like doing – Edinburgh can accommodate. The only difference is that now you may have to put on a few layers, but believe me there’s nothing more satisfying than coming out of the cold into an old pub with a roaring fire and ordering a pint of your choice.

Edinburgh’s pub scene continues to grow and change. The Standing Order on George Street continues to be an old favourite. Cheap food and drink, a great selection of ales, and its infamous Sunday Service boasting a range of £1 drinks make it a huge and popular venue.

Beluga on George Street is definitely worth seeing. The space age interior, wicked music and load of hmmÂ… talent make paying the dearer prices for the drinks worthwhile.

A wide range of weekly, fortnightly and monthly club nights are hosted throughout the venues of the city. A well-established favourite, Sublime at The Honeycomb is on every second Friday. Trance and techno are in the main room, while in the confines of the back room there is chilled funk, combined with all manner of electrified beats and breaks. If you’ve still enough energy at the end of the weekend you’ve got to try Taste, also at The Honeycomb. Its wild mix of garage and hard house will reveal what you’re really made of when it comes to handling Monday morning.

Just because the festival is other doesn’t mean the shows have stopped. A barrage of theatre, comedy and dance are only a choice away. For more information on events in and around Edinburgh, get The List magazine, available every second Thursday or visit www.list.co.uk.

Edinburgh is well prepared for the needs of its visitors. Basics such as banks, post offices and food shops are plentiful and easy to find in the easily navigated city centre. St Andrews Square bus station can be found just behind Princes Street, and the Waverly train station is smack in the centre of town, above which you will find the tourist information office. The biggest and probably cheapest Internet café in Edinburgh is Easyeverything, and is located on Rose Street. Although Princes Street is the main shopping area, The Royal Mile in the old town is the most popular place to experience during a trip to the city. It was the centre of Edinburgh for centuries and has a fascinating and darkly past. One of the best things to do while there is join one of the many daily tours, seeing and learning about Edinburgh’s dark and haunted subterranean streets.

You have to spend time in Scotland’s capital to experience the mystery of the city. What better time to do it than now? The crowds have gone, along with the queues; beds are cheaper; the beer’s still flowing, and autumn seems to make Edinburgh more Scottish than ever.

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