County Clare
The N67 turned inland at Ballyvaughan so we didn’t take the coast road through Black Head. We were now in the heart of “The Burren“, supposed to resemble a moonscape. Boireann is Irish for rocky country or karst with stretches of limestone in all directions. I relied on the description of our guidebook to choose this route but I think I would have preferred the coast road. Stopping at Newtown Castle, with rounded towers and a conical roof, this was the residence of the O’Lochlains, the chiefs of this area. Taking Corkscrew Hill up a couple of sharp bends, we found it wasn’t as barren as the area in County Connemara. This road was built as a famine-relief project in the 1840′s.
From Lisdoonvarna, a center for matchmakers, we headed west towards the coast. We admired Ballinalacken Castle. A 15th century O’Brien tower castle, it now is a courtly castle hotel.
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Cliffs of Moher |
Coming into Doolin with a rose-colored thatch-roofed cottage, we came across our first busload of tourists. We could hardly get our car through the crowd as we drove down to the coast. We could view the Aran Islands off in the Atlantic and yet another tower castle, which seemed to be in abundance in this area. Staying on the coast road, we quickly came to the carpark for the Cliffs of Moher, the highlight of the day.
Although we had arrived in the last afternoon, which I thought would be a perfect time to see them, the sun would never come out from the clouds to let us see them under sunny conditions. But we saw them like they’re usually seen. The first one or two stand out clearly. Then as you go back in space, they are covered in a light fog, making them very misty and romantic. Took many shots looking to the left and decided not to walk down that way. It’s a eight kilometer hike down to the end of Hag’s Head. Too long for us to walk it, I’d like to try it another time. You are rewarded with several arches in the rock and a signal tower. This was built on an ancient fort called Mothair, which gives its name to all of the cliffs. I sat on the ledge, listening to all the sea birds, who have their nests in the cliffs.
We climbed up to the right to O’Brien’s Tower. In the 19th century, Cornelius O’Brien built this tower to dazzle and overwhelm the ladies of the day. It’s still a gorgeous view today. Continuing on the coast road, we traveled through Lisconnor and Lehinch on the pretty Lisconnor Bay before we turned inland. On another trip, we’d like to ride down the coast road to Kilkee. There is a twenty-four kilometer cliff walk out to Loop Head, with many sea stacks and arches.
Back on N85 at Ennistymon, we took the N18 at Ennis. At Newmarket-on-Fergus we rode around the grounds of Dromoland Castle, one of Ireland’s finest hotels today. With an eighteen-hole golf course, it would make an excellent stop for the golfing enthusiast.
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Bunratty Castle |
We reached our destination, Bunratty, on time. Dominating the town is Bunratty Castle, “the most complete and authentic medieval castle in Ireland, according to one brochure.” Built in 1425, it was the home of the Earl of Thomond, of the O’Brien clan. From here, he ruled over his Chiefdom and entertained extravagantly.
Our B&B for the night was a new, peach-colored Tudor-styled home, owned by a young couple with a baby. Our room was the most spacious of the trip, upstairs in the front with large window looking out on the undulating, green land. I just relaxed and wrote in my journal in this nicely furnished abode, done also in shades of peach. My TC (Travel Comapnion) went to Mac’s Pub in the re-constructed folk village next to the castle. He bought tickets for the Medieval Banquet held at the castle twice, each night of the year.
A definite tourist attraction, it is also lots of fun and highly recommended. I had attended a similar event in Wales and enjoyed it immensely. A bagpiper was playing as we mounted the outdoor stairs and entered the castle. A twisting, narrow flight of stairs took us up to the grand ballroom where the O’Briens would have entertained. Serving us generous cups of mead, we were regaled with the exploits of the family. A Lord and Lady were chosen from among the group to rule over the evening.
Going back to the first floor, where the soldiers were billeted in faraway times, it was now transformed into a magnificent banquet hall. We had choice seats in the front with people from Louisiana and South Africa sitting around us. One of the pretty maids tied a bib around each of us, blue for me and red for the men, and informed us that all the food would be eaten with our fingers, just like in medieval times.
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The banquet |
The charming and attractive Master of Ceremonies greeted and welcomed us. He asked the Lord of the evening what were his wishes. All through the night, the Lord had several of his friends sent to the dungeon, directly below us. He was a humorous Lord and his remarks added to the merriment of the event. The maids took turns coming on the stage and announcing each course of the meal. The first offering was an appetizing soup, which we drank from the bowl.
While we were eating, a maiden played the harp, the instrument which is on the Irish flag. It was the first time we had heard this instrument here. A young man played the fiddle. The second course was some tasty spare ribs. Our main entree was succulent capon, accompanied by potatoes and carrots. Berries of the season concluded this feast along with some sweet pudding, which we could eat with a spoon. Pitchers of red and white wine supplied beverages generously throughout the repast.
After the meal, the maidens and men performed a beautiful show of Irish music with the singing of all the familiar songs. I finally heard When Irish Eyes are Smiling, which was the first selection and one of my favorites. Of course, we heard Danny Boy! We spent another night with Irish music in a different but extremely enjoyable way.
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Bunratty B&B |
Bunratty is located near Shannon Airport so it is a great tourist area. This was reflected next morning at breakfast. The owners of B&B’s conform to the schedules of the tour buses and serve breakfast earlier and are more inflexible than we had encountered previously. Breakfast was over at nine o’clock but my TC was able to bring a tray to our room for me. So I had my food when I first awoke without having to get dressed and go downstairs. My breakfast even included eggs.
Leaving at around ten-thirty, we just had a short ride on N18 beside the Shannon to Limerick.
