Port Townsend, Washington - A Visual Delight - Port Townsend, Washington, USA
Save This Page
| 
Stumble It!Port Townsend, Washington - A Visual Delight
 |
Photo courtesy of Port Townsend Media/Chamber Commerce |
I walk down Port Townsend's Water Street, taking in glimpses of the harbor's bright blue water on my right and the steep bluff rising on my left. Tourist shops and eateries along the street - turned modern at ground level with plate glass windows - served a different purpose in the town's past.
While Water Street is perfectly respectable today, during the Victorian era, I'd hesitate to walk here. The street was a riot of bordellos, gambling houses, and saloons and earned itself a reputation as infamous as San Francisco's Barbary Coast. Sailors and adventurers roamed the town. Fortunes were made and lost with the turn of a card. The former inhabitants might be surprised to know the street is now part of a National Historic District.
My first stop was at the 1892 Jefferson County Historical Society Museum, its exterior carefully preserved. Here I discover the story of Port Townsend. Its four floors of artifacts, archives, historical photographs, and exhibits depict Port Townsend first peoples, explorers, mariners, settlers and builders, the Victorians, and the military history of the area.
Port Townsend was first put on the map by Captain George Vancouver who landed in 1792 in nearby Discovery Bay. Farming, logging, and seafaring were the first economic enterprises. It didn't take long for the small settlement to become a busy international seaport. The town itself was founded in 1852 and became the port of entry for the northwestern area of the US.
When rumors of a planned Union Pacific rail line from the Columbia River arrived in town, property speculation and building ran rampant as businesses took advantage of the expected influx of settlers. But the railroad never happened. Port Townsend stagnated and thus is one of the best preserved Victorian seaports in the United States, providing real eye candy for the lover of Victorian architecture.
 |
Photo courtesy of Port Townsend Media/Chamber Commerce |
A swing round "uptown" situated on the high bluff brings into focus a large number of century-old buildings. I climb up the bluff steps to the Bell Tower. Built in 1890 to signal volunteer firemen, it's the last of its kind in the country. From here the panoramic views sweep past the town from the white-clad Mount Baker and Mount Rainier to the Olympic Mountains. The 1892 Jefferson County Courthouse with its 100-foot clock tower pointed the way home to mariners for many a year.
I take a driving tour around this part of the town where the "well-to-do" Victorians lived, isolating themselves from the "goings-on" downtown. They even had their own shopping area so as not to mix with the downtown "riff-raff". Victorian gingerbread houses dot the streetscapes everywhere I turn. As fate would have it, many of the former Victorian mansions are now bed and breakfast establishments. Others are now private residences, but all are interesting to view from the outside.
I find it easy to imagine the life of the wealthy Victorian at the Rothschild House, built in the 1860's by D.C.H. Rothschild, owner of a prosperous ship chandlery business. The home, on the National Register of Historic Places, is an example of an early Port Townsend residence. Of particular interest to me are the wedding presents and family heirlooms. Most of the home's original wallpaper and furnishings are in place. The flower garden is filled with antique varieties of peonies, roses, and lilacs.
Driving to the edge of town, I come to Fort Worden, a well-preserved military site with barracks, parade ground and officer's quarters. It celebrates its 100th anniversary in 2002 with special events throughout the year. Movie buffs will enjoy visiting this spot where filming took place for An Officer and a Gentleman. Wide green lawns and white barracks all in a line are a well-preserved example of turn-of-the-century military installations.
The 1904 Commanding Officer's quarters stands at the end of Officer's Row. Once it provided housing for the officers and their families. Now it's a museum that shows off the furnishings of the period between 1830 and 1910. The 6000 square foot house, with 10-foot high ceilings, contains three fireplaces, hardwood floors, a copper sink, and a brass chandelier. No skimping for the commander here.
 |
Photo courtesy of Port Townsend Media/Chamber Commerce |
I return to downtown and the far eastern end of the town, Point Hudson. Once an Indian campground, it's where Captain Vancouver landed. World War II white clapboard coast guard cottages surround a marina. I am charmed by this somewhat run-down section of the town, all due for re-development. It's all part of the special face that the town presents. Port Townsend, with its harbor, museums, and Victorian architecture is easy to fall in love with. It's a luscious landscape.
Other Things to Do
Stroll the galleries and shops of Water Street. Take a car tour of the upland historic homes or a guided sidewalk walking tour of downtown. Tel. 360-385-1967 for details.
Marine Science Center
At Fort Worden State Park
Tel. 360-385-5582
Email: ptmsc@olympus.net
Touch Tables, aquarium and exhibits, boat tours, beach walks, summer camps
Open: spring weekends, 12-4pm; summer Tues-Sun, 11am-5pm; fall weekends, 12-4pm and Tues-Sun, 12-6pm.
Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum
At Fort Worden State Park
Tel. 360-385-0373
The history of the Coast Artillery and Puget Sound Harbor Defenses. Collection of military small arms and uniforms, scale models.
Open: Tues-Sun, June, July, Aug 11am-4pm; April, May, Sept, Oct weekends
Admission: adults $2, children $1
The Point Wilson Lighthouse
At Fort Worden
Tel. 360-385-1003 - call for tour information.
1879 lighthouse, no longer used for navigational purposes. Originally on top of the lightkeeper's house, then moved in 1913 to the present tower. It marks the entrance to Puget Sound.
Golf
Two public courses: Port Townsend Golf Club at 385-4547 and Chevy Chase Golf Course at 385-0704
Boat Tours
Puget Sound Express Tel. 385-5288.
Passenger service to the San Juan Island with stops to view wild life. Whale watching tours, bird habitat tours.
Kayak Rental
Kayak Port Townsend at 385-6240
Fort Townsend State Park
A short distance south of Port Townsend on Highway 20. Clam digging in season.
Where to Eat
I ate at The Silverwater Cafe, 237 Taylor St. down the street from the Bishop Victorian Hotel. Informal. Moderate price range. All food freshly prepared. Seafood specialties. Tel. 360 385-6448.
Where to Stay
Port Townsend accommodations range from budget motels to bed and breakfasts to hotels. I stayed at the Bishop Victorian, a historic hotel conveniently located in the downtown. Art and period antique furniture decorate the grand lobby, wide staircase, and halls to the two level hotel. Each of the 16 guest suites, decorated with Victorian furniture, fixtures, and art contain all modern amenities and include a sitting room and kitchenette. A continental breakfast, brought to the door, is included. Behind the hotel is a small Victorian garden with walkways, gazebo, benches, and a rockery.
Bishop Victorian Hotel
714 Washington St.
Port Townsend, WA 98368
Tel. 360-385-6122
Toll free: 1-800-824-4738
Fax. 360-379-1840
Email: swan@waypt.com
Off street parking
Prices: $89-199, off-season rates
Wesbsite: www.bishopvictorian.com
Fort Worden State Park offers family housing, camping and a hostel.
Check them out at http://www.olympus.net/ftworden/accommod.html
Getting There
The Victoria Express offers a passenger only one hour trip to Port Angeles. Across the street from the dock is Budget Car Rental. For cars take the M.V. Coho.
Tel. (250) 386-2202.
From Port Angeles take Highway 101 to the Highway 20 turnoff. The drive is about 1-1½ hours along an easy road.
If You Go
Port Angeles Tourism
Toll Free: 1-888-365-6978
Website: www.ptguide.com
Rothschild House
Taylor and Jefferson Streets
Tel. 360-379-8076
Email: jchsmuseum@olympus.net
Website: www.jchsmuseum.org
Open May-September, 10am-5pm
Admission: adults $2, children $1.
Jefferson County Historical Society Museum
540 Water Street
Port Townsend, WA 98368
Tel. 360 385-1003
Email: jchsmuseum@olympus.net
Website: www.jchsmuseum.org
Open: Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm, Sun, 1pm-4pm
Closed: Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, New Years Day
Admission: $2.00 for adults, $1.00 for children 12 and under
Commanding Officer's Quarters
Fort Worden State Park
Late Victorian period furnishings
Open: June, July, Aug, daily, 10am-5pm; March, April, May, Sept, Oct, weekends, 12-4pm.
Admission: adults $1, children under 5 free
©2001 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media, without documented permission from the author is prohibited. Photos courtesy of Port Townsend Media/Chamber Commerce.
--------
Save This Page
| Stumble It!
