Provence, France: A Traveler’s Delight – Provence, France

By: Norman Goldman

Artwork by Lily Goldman

Provence, France: A Traveler’s Delight

The spectacular and varied flora of Provence, coupled with magnificent weather, has made this southeastern corner of France an artist’s paradise as well as a traveller’s delight.
It has always fascinated outsiders for many centuries and it has always attracted the romantic traveller.

The remarkable colours existing all around this region of France, such as hues of pewter, bronze, dark green and vibrant green, deep red soil, lavender, Marseille’s orange coral, are like a giant kaleidoscope too spectacular to describe or even imagine. No wonder it is in Provence where some of the greatest modern artists, such as Cézanne, Picasso, Renoir, Matisse, Chagall, Dufy, Cocteau and Van Gogh, were inspired to paint their masterpieces in a setting that is beyond description.

The principal counties of Provence, or as the French call them “departements,” comprise Hautes Alpes, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, Var, Vaucluse, Bouches du Rhône and Alpes-Maritimes. These are all under the administration region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur.

The major and most important cities or towns you would not want to miss are Avignon, Marseille, Carmargue, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Les Baux and Nîmes.

If we were to ask where is the gateway to Provence or where would be the start of our journey? The reply would have to be the historic Ville de Avignon. Many of us have at one time or another recited the children’s song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon.” The Pont St-Bénézet was the inspiration of this song.

Historically, Avignon is noted for the Palace of Popes and also for having been the political capital of the Christian World during the Middle Ages. It was here where Pope Clément V moved from Italy in the 14^th century and began an era where nine popes resided and two of whom were schismatic.

Nîmes is another interesting city whose history dates back as far as the dawn of time. This city was built around a natural spring and it is here you will find the famous Pont du Gard.

Moving on, you won’t want to miss Marseilles whose history dates back to around 600 BC when the Greeks landed on the coast. Marseille is sometimes looked upon as a place to avoid when visiting Provence. However, it would be a shame if you did not spend some time in this ancient city. There are ample sightseeing possibilities whether you enjoy outdoor activities or cultural incursions. There is something for all interests.

Aix-en-Provence is known as the heart of Provence. It is located 25 km from Marseille and the coast. Rich in culture there is always something going on to please the inhabitants as well as the visitor.

One hour from Aix-en-Provence you will discover Arles, where you may even attend a bullfight. I discovered an excellent place to stay near Arles called
Domaine De La Tourette, situated four kilometres from Arles.

The very friendly owners, who speak English as well as French, Philippe and Béatrice, rent out several cottages of various sizes and shapes at very reasonable rates. What is noteworthy about these lodgings is that it is less than an hour away from Nîmes, Avignon, Orange, Montpellier, Marseille, Le Pont du Gard, Les Baux. In other words, all the “must see” places in Provence are within a short distance.

A good suggestion before embarking on your trip to Provence is to check out the following two practical paperback guidebooks. I found them of immense help in researching my planned trip to Provence and in appreciating the magic of this beautiful corner of the earth. In fact, after I read the two books nothing could keep my wife and I away from arranging our reservations.

The Insight Guide Provence & the Côte d’Azur published by
Langenscheidt Publishers Inc has the most spectacular photos one could imagine. My wife, who is an artist, can hardly wait to travel to Provence with her brushes and easel and paint some of the scenes portrayed in the book. I especially was impressed with the stunning scenes and portraits of some of the inhabitants and places of interest that convey to the reader the authors’ rich understanding of the region and its culture.

For example, as soon as we open the book we notice a photo of an elderly gentleman missing some of his front teeth with a big smile on his face. The gentleman is standing beside a young lad on a cobbled stone street and peering at someone or something in the distance. This picture is worth a thousand words!

Several contributors to this guidebook enhance its quality, as each author was responsible for a particular area of interest. Six main topics, introduction, history, features, places, information panels, travel tips, as indicated by the table of contents, separate the divisions of the book.

The opening flap of the guide has what is called a location finder divided into areas of interest, main cities/towns, top resorts, main sights, features and maps. Information provided throughout the book is illuminating and interesting, especially if you never travelled to Provence or are unaware of its history and culture. The descriptions and scenes of the towns and villages coupled with the magnificent photographs illustrate the outstanding beauty of this corner of the earth that has fascinated outsiders since time immemorial.

Other sections that were well researched and which I particularly enjoyed were the chapters dealing with the people and traditions, the art section and of course the Provençal cuisine. As for the cuisine, we are informed “the traveller to Provence is faced with a fine choice when looking for a restaurant. After eliminating the obvious tourist traps, only two kinds of restaurant remain: either cheap and excellent, or out of this world.”

Another “must read” book with less emphasis on photos, but nevertheless just as captivating, is Provence & the Côte d’Azur published by Ulysses Travel Guides.

This book has very extensive chapters pertaining to Avignon, Nimes, Aix-en-Provence, and Marseille. You will also find various maps scattered throughout that will denote places of interest and must see attractions.

I also enjoyed reading some of the tidbits mentioned in the book. For example, we are informed that Levi Strauss arrived in 1847 in San Francisco with a batch of very strong waterproof cloth called “jutes de Nîmes” that originated in Nîmes. Mr. Strauss decided to use the material to manufacture pants and the rest is history as witnessed by the blue denim (de Nîmes) jeans we wear today.

The book contains extensive chapters dealing with exploring all of the important cities towns, and villages. Succinct historical facts as well as information pertaining to accommodations, restaurants, entertainment, shopping, maps, practical information, attractions and outdoor activities are contained within each individual section. The authors also provide the reader with a rating system pertaining to their various recommendations.

Both the table of contents and indexes contained in both of the above guide books provide the reader with user friendly guides permitting the traveller to enjoy his or her stay in Provence without the necessity of joining some of the expensive tours available in the various towns and villages.