An Aussie in Canada: Maritimes et Quebec

By: Nicole Philps

An Aussie in Canada: Maritimes et Quebec
Quebec, Canada, North America
At the beginning of August I left Bec in Toronto and took the bus up to Ottawa to stay with my old buddy Phil and his lovely wife Anna. They have a pool in their backyard which was a perfect way to escape the rest of the heatwave. I only spent one eduational day visiting the Houses of Parliament, Museum of Civilisation and Museum of Photography.

Whilst restoring my energy with a quiet ale in the Byward Markets I fell into conversation with two local lads who insisted I join them. We then decamped to a bar down the road – Zaphod Beeblebrox’s nonetheless, and yes they serve Pangalacticgargleblasters!! (If you haven’t read The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy then that’ll mean nothing to you). So a jolly good night and a humungous hangover was achieved.

The following night I hopped on a bus to Frederickton, New Brunswick. 20 odd hours later I arrived. I had thought that once I reached the east coast the distances would be a little less, but not so! Frederickton is a picturesque little town, elaborate Victorian wooden houses strung along a wide, smooth river. They also brew an excellent local ale at McPhail’s. From NB I bussed over to Prince Edward Island, where I quickly realised that hiring a car was going to be the only way to see all that I wanted (public transport being non-existent).

Going to PEI was a sort of a pilgrimage for me. Home of LM Montgomery, author of Anne of Green Gables amongst many other books, I wanted to see the ‘real’ Green Gables as well as the various other places she described so vividly in her books. So I spent a pleasant couple of days zooming about the quiet country roads in my snazzy red Pontiac Sunfire, camping in quiet, green national parks under a brilliant Milky Way lit sky. The landscape of PEI is idyllic. Gentle rolling hills of wheat and potatoes, golden and green against the vivid red soil, down to the long blue bays of the sea, tiny fishing harbours tucked away in quiet coves.

Hired another car in Halifax, Nova Scotia and took one of the big, ugly freeways north to Cape Breton Island. The village of Mabou was my destination, a cute little place with a great bakery, and more unusually in this corner of the world, a pub. Called The Red Shoe and decorated accordingly, they have live music most nights and a great atmosphere. I stopped in after going to a ceilidh in the community hall across the road. An interesting crowd of local grannies, families and tourists, the music was provided by two sedate couples in their 50’s – piano and fiddle. They soon had everyone’s feet thumping to the energetic rhythms of Cape Breton’s Scottish heritage. They had a few people up demostrating step dancing, including the local priest! An amusing evening!

The coastline of the island is famous for its dramatic scenery and I was not disappointed. Driving along the winding Cabot Trail I had an ever unfurling vista of valleys and mountains covered in thick lush forest. Did some energetic but rewarding hikes up some of said mountains and along ragged cliff tops. No moose or bear in sight though, although many promising footprints gave away their presence.

An amusing coffee break was taken one day at Scarecrow Joe’s – a field of 100 or so scarecrows, all with individual characteristics, including a can-can line of world presidents!!! At Louisberg I spent a day exploring an 18^th century fortress, reconstructed on an isolated headland using traditional methods. Far better than something like Old Sydney Town, the staff were all dressed in costumes, each playing a role – soldier, baker, blacksmith, and you could ask them questions as they went about their work. I felt as though I had wandered onto a film set, only to find out later that a movie I saw recently, The Widow of St Pierre, was filmed there!

In Halifax I limited my attentions to the Alexander Keith’s Brewery Tour, of which I had heard many fine things. And indeed they were true. One of the best tours I have ever been on, guides all in period dress, entertaining with song and dance and gambling in an underground tavern (with free beer!!!).

After dutifully checking out the Citadel and the Public Garden, finest outside of London I must say, the music of the ‘Artful Knave’ drew me into the Old Triangle (pub). After striking up conversation with the guy next to me, I was soon introduced to his friends, the band, who took it upon themselves to introduce me to the whole pub, and serenade me with an ‘Australian’ folksong. It was a lively and fun evening all round.

A 24 hour train journey deposited me back in Ottawa. The distance is fairly great but Canadian trains are not exactly the fastest in the world, stopping frequently in the middle of nowhere for no apparent reason. I didn’t stay long there before moving up to Quebec City. I’ve never been so overwhelmed by my first impression of a city. From the many turreted train station you look up to a walled city with a huge castle-like tower rising above it. You feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The hostel was in a vast old convent but very well set up. From there it was easy to explore all over town. Tiny winding cobbled streets, colourful wooden framed windows and doors. A living museum pretty much.

I found a waitressing job my first day there, at Bistro le Chef. Nice people, crap pay and no meals for staff!!! Huh. I lasted nearly three weeks before deciding that it was just a little too boring and that I couldn’t make enough to live on. Also, I discovered that it was expected that I be completely dedicated to the job and was not allowed to have a personal life outside (I had planned on my day off to do some sightseeing and refused to work when told at the last minute I had to. Not a popular decision. They still haven’t sent my pay cheque either so the battlefields could be drawn!

So I escaped to the city wilderness that is Montreal. Trendy and dilapidated by turn, it’s a buzzing old place. I could definitely live here. My friend Darrin came up from Ottawa last weekend and we hung out with his friends, went apple picking and drank lots of beer and homemade red wine. A very pleasant way to pass a weekend.

So that’s the news for now. I had planned to make trips to Boston and New York but obviously have decided to steer clear of the States for the time being. It was quite surreal seeing all the September 11 events in ‘real time’ as it were, being in the same time zone and all. The hostel was extra full for awhile with people diverted or stranded.