#71: Bangkok Notes:
Home Nearer Than Ever Before
18 DEC 2002
Here I am in Bangkok, City of Angels, after a ten-year absence. This was not meant to be a discovery of sorts, but a mere stopover on my way home. Yet, the city amazes me with the drastic changes that have taken place, and with the great hospitality my wonderful local friends have provided. From a planned two days, I have stayed six.
Vast changes have occurred in spite of the 1997 pan-Asian financial crisis that Thailand hasn’t fully recovered from. The first thing I noticed was the level of cleanliness. Ten years ago, one saw rubbish everywhere. The previous mayor ordered a cleanup of the city and enforced laws on littering – you actually risk a fine if caught littering.
Thai tourism has also gone upscale. Sex tourism, formerly a big part of the Thai tourism industry, is long gone. The country has since successfully promoted itself as a haven for eco-tourism, as well as cultural tourism. I remembered on my previous visit, every ten meters on the streets of Bangkok, a taxi or tuk tuk driver would ask if I was interested in a massage or a woman (both are the same thing, really). Six days since my arrival and no one has approached me.
Previously, a Thai holiday would mean dealing with numerous touts and arguing with less-than-honest tuk tuk drivers or vendors. The country had a sort of “wild east” image. All of that has changed. The country is orderly, and the service industry has improved significantly. Dishonest characters, which are found in any country in the world, have to be a lot more discreet for the tourist police is never far. This is what we call development.
People also seem to dress much better these days. Dan, my London friend whom I met in Bangkok, told me about the flip-flop index. Years ago, a lot more people wore sandals in Bangkok. Now they wear sports shoes. He also noticed that many snack vendors have disappeared. I guess that whilst this is somewhat regretable, being part of a nation’s heritage, the process is unavoidable. As income levels rise, it becomes unprofitable to produce and sell certain products. Customers want cleaner food and a better eating environment. This is the process Singapore and other countries have gone through. It is happening in Thailand too.
Thailand is moving steadily ahead despite existing problems in the economy and politics. Like all Asian countries, Thailand faces enormous challenges going forward. It needs to restructure its economy to deal with the rise of China’s economic might. Whilst Thailand has succeeded in providing universal primary education for its population, many young people do not move on to higher levels. This impedes the country’s ability to move up the production value chain. Thailand has to reshape its economy dramatically in order to stay afloat. I wish it success in its efforts.
The hottest thing in Bangkok right now is the King’s book about how he adopted the stray dog, Thongdaeng, its loyalty and values. Oberservers say the book is a veiled criticism on the current government and state of affairs in the country. The book has become a bestseller and the order list for it is incredibly long. Local papers also talk about how people come from the provinces to queue for hours to buy T-shirts with the pictures of the dog, with many returning empty-handed and angry, because they were sold out so quickly. If there is anything that has remained the same, it’s the Thai people’s love and respect for their King.
My American writer-friend and nomad extraordinaire, Rolf Potts, has just published
Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long Term World Travel. “Vagabonding” is about taking time off from your normal life – from six weeks, to four months, to two years – to discover and experience the world on your own terms. National Geographic Adventure writer (and veteran shoestring traveler) Rolf Potts shows how anyone, armed with an independent spirit, can achieve the dream of extended overseas travel. Find out more about his book at vagabonding.net.
21 DEC 2002
Newsflash: WeeCheng in KL, Heading for Singapore Now
After a long overnight train ride to Butterworth in northern part of Malaysia, I took another bus to Kuala Lumpur. Have been staying the last 2 nights in this ultra-modern capital of Malaysia, savouring the (surprisingly expensive – same price as Singapore) gastronomical delights of Chinatown KL. I’m now at Puduraya Bus Station, about to take a 5 hour+ bus to Johor Baru on the border with Singapore. The one-year odyssey is coming to an end soon. More later, from Singapore.