Five Steps to Heaven - Cinque Terre, Italy

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Five Steps to Heaven

Cinque Terre, Italy

Manarola, the smallest village of the five, seen from the main path on the way round towards Corniglia

The ground levelled out briefly before a sharp descent into the brightly coloured port of Vernazza. I'd struggled up from Corniglia, the previous village, cursing my daypack and blistered heels, cheered only by passing "Buongiorno!"s from fellow walkers approaching from the opposite direction. As I stopped for a breather and a gulp of by now nastily tepid water, I squinted, convinced I'd been sweating so much it was starting to blur my vision. Coming towards me were two well-built guys, effortlessly transporting enormous rucksacks in which myself and most of my immediate family could have comfortably spent a long weekend. Barely out of breath, one turned back to the other and said, with a definite note of disappointment, "Jeez, that climb wasn't half as tough as yesterday, mate." Australians, I knew it.

Thankfully, there's no need to spend weeks at the gym before a visit, the 11km long path connecting the five villages of the Cinque Terre on Italy's North West Ligurian coast isn't just for Aussie iron men. Offering spectacular views as far as France to the north, and out to Corsica and Sardinia on a clear day, it's popular with everyone from backpackers and German tourists kitted out in full hiking gear, to the odd ill-prepared Italian signora in high-heels and a leopard-skin leather jacket. Shady olive groves, beautifully fragrant lemon orchards and the crystal clear blue waters below, make the occasional challenging stretch of never-ending steps more than worth it.

The epitome of quaint, the villages themselves are made up of narrow houses painted in bright yellows, oranges and pinks. Shoe-horned into the tiniest coves, they creep steeply back up the hillside providing a challenge for unsuspecting tourists with bulging suitcases. Each of the five "terre" has its own character.

Riomaggiore, the starting off point for most walkers, is a hive of activity. The station is decorated with murals showing the toils of the men and women who worked so hard on the land in years gone by. The next stop along the coast, Manarola, is tiny. Painted fishing boats line the harbour, whilst elderly locals take their knitting out into the sun to catch up on village gossip and cast aspersions on passing tourists. Corniglia is perched high up on a promontory jutting out into the sea, the balconies of its narrow stone alleyways festooned with the weekly wash.

Looking down on Vernazza, the chicest village, on the way to Monterosso

Vernazza is the prettiest and most sophisticated of the five. Just over halfway for brave souls tackling the path, it's a popular lunch stop. Those with expensive tastes can dine on such delicacies as stuffed local anchovies, lobster and swordfish in upmarket fish restaurants along the quay; whilst others like myself, with shallower pockets, have the chance to gobble down slices of foccaccia with homemade pesto from a kiosk around the corner. Monterosso, a more than welcome sight for exhausted walkers who start out from Riomaggiore, is the largest of the five. Although it feels more touristy than the others, I was glad of a paddle on the pebbly beach, a chocolate ice cream and a chance to rest my straining calf muscles.

Most visitors are day-trippers content to spend their time along the main path, relaxing on the beaches or hopping between the towns by ferry. It can get very busy in high season, particularly on public holidays when the walkers push past, shoulder to shoulder. The path connecting the villages is the star attraction, though few people seem to venture any further than this. The area is criss-crossed by a network of tracks, plenty of which are much quieter and have even better views, particularly those which lead up away from the coastline into the hills behind.

It's always best to start with something to aim for, and conveniently each of the villages has a religious sanctuary perched high up amongst the trees, such as the Madonna di Reggio which overlooks Vernazza. Although it's a tough uphill struggle, there's a distinct feeling of smugness at reaching the cool, peaceful tranquillity of the top, whilst those on the path below are jostling for space.

The tracks that wind up amongst the terraces also give a real feel for the history of the area. Much more than just a clifftop path with fabulous views, the unique, entirely manmade landscape of the Cinque Terre, now a National Park, was recently awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. For generations locals have been reclaiming the wooded hillsides for wine production by constructing over 7,000 km of hand-built dry stone walls creating steep terraces perfect for vine cultivation. Now aided by rickety monorail trains which creep up and down almost vertical slopes, full to bursting with precious grapes during the autumn harvest, it's impossible to conceive of the back-breaking day-to-day work involved before such technological innovations. The National Park's number one priority is the conservation of the countryside and the safeguarding of its traditional techniques. They offer a 3 week volunteer scheme for young people, teaching them how to build dry stone walls in return for board and lodging.

The main pathway, sentiero number 2, between Manarola and Corniglia

Having made it to my fifth stop, Monterosso, on foot, the question of how to get back to my room in Riomaggiore was a pressing one. Walking back again was frankly not an option. Thankfully I let the train take the strain, it took just 22 minutes to retrace 5 hours worth of walking. Little more than a continuous tunnel, I was given tantalising glimpses of the views that had accompanied me throughout the day as we momentarily burst out into the sunlight when the train stopped in each of the five villages.

Spending all day struggling up hills under the weight of a heavy rucksack isn't for everyone, Australian or otherwise, but after all that Italian gelato, some gentle walking in the Cinque Terre is a thoroughly enjoyable way to ease the guilt of all those extra calories.

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