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Peace and Quiet - Nepal

By: Joseph Koch

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Katmandu, Nepal

October 10
The bus ride back to Katmandu was entertaining. There are many tight corners on route so the bus driver needs to beep his horn at these corners to warn oncoming buses. If there is a bus coming from the other direction and they don't hear it, big problems. In fact there are many burnt buses at the side of the road or in the valleys below. They don't have enough money to retrieve them. We had a cautious driver but it was a bit intimidating at times.

Buddha's eyes are always watching us
Buddha's eyes are always watching us
I started feeling sick today. I hope this doesn't but a damper on my Mt. Everest trip. Tomorrow I will take a twelve-hour bus trip to Jiri, which is the starting point for most trips to Everest. I will do four days of hiking. Even though I wouldn't be remotely close to the peak, by the end of the second day I will have hiked far enough to see the peak.

October 11
I woke up today and wasn't sure about the Everest trip. I decided to stay which looks like a good decision. I needed to be healthy for the trip and I have a fever. I bought some Ibuprofen and something else, I don't know what it is, to help reduce the fever. I laid in bed most of the day but was able to get up and go to an Internet café to do some research in the China part of the trip. I need to get a visa for China so I may as well do it here.

October 12
Another sick day. The Chinese Embassy was only open from 9:30 - 1:00 so I ended up getting there too late. They're not open until Monday so that's frustrating.

I have been seeing a lot of the inside of my hotel lately, luckily I'm staying at a pleasant place. I ended up giving my laundry to the hotel reception and they will do it for me. A very nice Manchurian family owns this hotel and is of great assistance. It's a never-ending battle to get hot showers here but they try and usually with their help, I can get one.

October 13
Another sick day, but I am feeling a little better. I have been asking how to get a Chinese visa and a variety of people have given a variety of different answers on how to get one. Many people will do it for me but they were quoting prices of around $100. I'll just go there myself Monday since I'll probably be sick still and wouldn't get much done anyway.

October 14
I can actually do stuff today. Much of the day was spent trying to find bus #2 to Boudha. I was guided to six different bus stops where I waited for six different buses for two hours, none going to Boudha. I ended up just taking a shared taxi.

One of three Durbar Squares located around Katmandu
One of three Durbar Squares located around Katmandu
The stupa in Boudha looked like a big upside down vanilla ice cream cone. At the top of the world's biggest stupa was the Buddha's eyes looking in every direction and signifying that Buddha is continually watching all of us. There are multiple levels to the stupa with some representing steps to nirvana. In addition to the whitewash is the rust color, which signifies the lotus flower. I took a walk around and turned the prayer wheels in a clockwise fashion and listened to the large bells ring in the monasteries. Surrounding the temple are several monasteries and several souvenir shops. This was a very peaceful place with soothing music, Buddhists monks and non-combative souvenir merchants.

I also stopped and had some food at a nearby restaurant. The owner talked my ears off. She had a nephew who lived in New York and she talked about him. In her restaurant, the flag of Tibet was displayed. This is common here as the Nepalese are showing support for their fellow Buddhists in their attempt to be freed from China. I had considered going to Lhasa, Tibet on a three-day trip, which is a popular trip from Katmandu. I would have to go with a group, as individual travel to Tibet is not possible.

I was able to find bus #2 back easily, it was right outside of the stupa entrance. I met a local guy who lived here but the rest of his family lived in Colorado. Then a walk back to the hotel. I passed the Royal Palace on the way back, which had extra security. There has been a problem here of late as a member of the royal family killed some of his family members. Additionally, Maoists have kidnapped a number of people in their war against the existing government. However, the rebels usually just release the people and there seems to be a tentative peace.

October 15
I went and got my Chinese visa at the embassy. I ended up walking and getting there before anyone else. I was an hour early but there were quite a few people that arrived. The police kept everyone in order until the doors opened and then it was a giant scrum. There was three separate lines including one for foreigners so I didn't wait that long. I came back at 5:30 and picked it up.

Then to Patan, which is technically another city but is just over the bridge from Katmandu. The first stop was the Golden Temple. I spent most of my time at the Durbar Square, with the main attraction being the Royal Palace. The Katmandu area has three Durbar Squares, which are large squares that have both religious and government buildings.

I also ran some errands. I was going to send mail back but didn't because it was too expensive. They supposedly secure your package by pouring bee's wax on the package. I went to get something to eat and although I like the food here it takes a couple hours to get service. I ended up having drinks with an Aussie for a while which is a good way to pass time.

October 16
The countryside outside of Bhaktapur illustates agicultural practices in Nepal
The countryside outside of Bhaktapur illustates agicultural practices in Nepal
Today's trip was a visit to nearby Bhaktapur, The City of Devotees. There are three squares here including another Durbar Square, which includes The Palace of 55 Windows. The second square, Taumadhi Square, has an impressive five-story building. The last square has all the old wooden houses and is where the old priest buildings used to be.

The countryside is quite a bit different. It demonstrates the old way of farming by throwing the oats up and then the chaff falls out. They also leave the straw on the road and as cars drive over that, it removes the oats.

Back to the tourist section where I was staying. The tourist section here is developed and is almost like its own little city within a city. I actually ran into a couple of people I had met on the Chitwan trip today as well. I bought some pants and some Buddhist chant music. I was going to buy a thanka today. The thankas are rolled up religious scroll-paintings that are used in meditation. Most are colorful and elaborate and include either the wheel of life, the lives of Buddha or the steps to enlightenment. I'll wait to buy one until tomorrow, which is my last full day in Katmandu.

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This article was published on BootsnAll on March 29, 2004


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