England – March 2000

It’s Not So ‘Grim Up North’
Returning to one’s home town after several years absence brings you to a strange position – somewhere between familiarity and foreign. Experiences of other cities, countries and cultures gives you the opportunity to notice things that were previously unappreciated. With this in mind, I took to the streets of Newcastle for a bit of a nostalgia trip.
A tourist in my own town
The first thing you notice as you emerge from the train at the monument is the sheer magnificence of your surroundings. Classical Newcastle is indeed something of a minor architectural masterpiece. The streets radiating from the Monument date from the 19th Century and have thankfully been preserved to this day.
There is a fascinating and rich history to the town, that far pre-dates the industrial revolution when it was one of the most important towns in England. Newcastle originated in Roman Times, though flourished from early Norman times – the amazing history to the town would be impossible to summarise here. Highlights of the historical route include the Quayside, from where the town itself began. Here you’ll find the ‘New Castle’ from which the town gained its name and a great place to start to discover the town – and one of the best view points of the city.
For not wishing to bore the disinterested, the following article in this series goes into more detail on the history! Suffice to say, a walk around the town – although reminiscent of school trip hell – reminded me of just what a truly lovely city I live in.
Nighttime in the City
Entertainment
Newcastle has for years claimed to be one of the official greatest party towns in the world. Not sure who makes up these lists, but Geordies certainly do know how to party (read ‘drink copious amounts of alcohol’).
The Bigg Market is nationally renowned for an evening of drunken debauchery. Young, loud and extremely popular – this is essentially just a long line of bars packed with scantily clad ladies and lecherous men. Fun, if you like that kind of thing. Ironically this is the site of the old cattle market. I guess some things don’t change.
The Quayside caters for the supposed more mature market and certainly offers a wider choice of atmosphere, from traditional real ale pubs to the more modern cafe bar culture and theme bars.
After closing time, the town still has more to offer with a wide range of night-clubs offering music to cater for all tastes. From live music and indie/alternative through to dance clubs with national reputation. Tyneside’s most famous clubs remains the Tuxedo Royale – a club aboard a ship permanently moored beneath the Tyne Bridge. Go, get horribly drunk and throw up on the revolving dancefloor.
Newcastle is sadly afflicted by the same national irritation of 2am closing time. This thankfully looks to be changing with a bill going through parliament allowing permission for 24 licencing to suitable areas. For this we thank the European Union!
Entertainment
There is a huge selection of more traditional entertainments for those who prefer something a little more sophisticated than drinking 10 pints of lager, going for a curry and then 10 more pints at a nightclub.
The region is home to a wide range of theatres and productions. None more spectacular than the Theatre Royal in the city centre, which deserves seeing for the sheer grandness.
There are several live music venues catering for all tastes, from the huge Arena playing host to big international names through to the Northern Symphonia of England. Comedy clubs are opening, reflecting the changes in European trends for further variation in choice.
Eating Out
Newcastle is an modern old fashioned kind of town – reflected in the range and style of restaurants. There is a wide range of global cuisine, though limited to the more expensive range of eateries. The international coffee shop culture has yet to hit, though with the recent arrival of Starbucks and the like, we hold out hope.
North Tyneside is limited in traditional local cuisine, but is famed for seafood – the coastline and Newcastle and North Shields Quaysides are littered with excellent fish restaurants. This is the only reason to go to North Shields.
Shopping
The region’s capital is a huge retail centre. There is a huge range of shopping atmospheres, whether you’d prefer wandering around the picturesque streets of Newcastle City Centre, bargain hunting on the traditional markets across the region or the more modern, if a little impersonal Metro Centre Mall. Hunt hard enough and you can find almost anything you could want. And a whole lot of stuff you wouldn’t.
Why are we called Geordies?
There seems to be no ddefinitiveanswer to this one, though most suggest to be a derivation of the name George. Which George and in which context is debated to this day.
Several theories suggest George Stephenson, though for different reasons. Other stories relate to various King Georges and here it all gets a bit confusing.
The other theories link the name to the miners and pitmen of the region, which seems to be the most common and accepted theory. There are other ideas which are a tad derogatory, but I don’t believe them. But not because I’m a Geordie you understand…



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