Ontario, Canada - July 1999

The Bruce Trail

Survival is the great Canadian theme, says author Margaret Atwood. We Canadians emphasize our ruggedness by perpetuating the myth of our harsh landscape and unforgiving weather.

Most Canadians now live in an urban landscape in close proximity

to the United States and not in proximity to true wilderness (though

the U.S. could be considered a cultural “wilderness”). The only

wildlife I regularly come into contact with are rabid raccoons

feasting on our garbage and parks overloaded with Canada Goose

shit.

Nonetheless, these myths are in our bones. So when we can, we

like to return to nature. Whether this is a cottage in the Muskokas,

a canoe trip in Kilarney Provincial Park, or even a beer-fest

weekend at the local conservation area, Ontarians are inseparable

from the outdoors from Spring to Fall. (After which we go into

serious hibernation.)

My favourite way to get in touch with my “Canadianness” is by

hiking the Bruce Trail. The

Bruce Trail, an 800 km linear hiking trail, follows the Niagara Escarpment (basically a very long cliff). The Escarpment itself starts near Rochester, New York, dissects southern Ontario, then up the Bruce Peninsula, goes underwater into Lake Huron, emerging as Manitoulin Island, submerging and emerging again until petering out in Wisconsin.

The Bruce Trail runs on private and public land and embraces

over 100 parks. There are also 300 km. of side trails.

Some of the trees on the escarpment date over 1000 years. This

is remarkable since the average age of forests in Ontario is sixty

years, due to repeated clearcutting. This makes these trees the

oldest in Northeastern North America.

Our evil right-wing provincial leader, Mike

Harris, okayed logging it, as he did previously with Algonquin

Provincial Park. Fortunately, just before the axes were set to

swing, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural

Organization (UNESCO) designated the area a “Biosphere”

and logging was halted. It is the unique combination of cultural

and biological assets that merits this designation.

One guidebook refers to the trail as packed with “white-tailed

deer, coyotes, black bear, foxes, turkey vultures, Massasauga

rattlesnake, and many other species of bird and animals”. The

animals you are most apt to see are: chipmunks, raccoons, mosquitoes,

blackflies, seagulls, and pet dogs. I did, however, see a coyote

at Bruce National Park. I thought it was a dingo. Then I became

frightened for my baby - until I realized that I neither had a

baby, nor was I in Australia. I was therefore able to continue

on my way unmolested.

This trail is no footpath. It is frequently rocky, arduous, and

may entail minor scaling. Fires and overnight camping are not

permitted on the trail and finding campgrounds can be a problem.

You can also go a long way before you encounter supply stations,

so plan accordingly.

That aside, you will see some of the most beautiful geography

Ontario has to offer: primeval forest, unique flora and fauna,

vivid scenery and an interesting cross-section of cultural life.

What follows is by no means a definitive guide to the Bruce Trail.

Just some tips from sections and nearby attractions that I have

experienced.

South Section: Niagara to Hamilton

The trail starts at the foot of the Brock

Monument in Queenston. Major-General Brock was killed here

preventing the Americans from invading. You can climb his statue,

which affords a wonderful view of the gorgeous Niagara Gorge and

the United States. While in this area, take time to contemplate

how Canada (with minimal help from Britain) defeated the United

States in the War of 1812 - the only war the U.S. has ever lost.

Some of the finest wine

in Canada (yes we make wine, some of which even wins international

competitions) is grown here and much of Ontario’s fruit. Hence

the names of the places you’ll pass through: Vineland and Fruitland.

I know someone who lives in Fruitland. I just can’t say Fruitland

without a naughty snicker. It is the subject of frequent taunts.

Near St. Catharines, you’ll pass over all four of the Welland

Canals, a major engineering feat that allowed oceangoing vessels

to travel the Great Lakes. The alternative was to go over Niagara

Falls. This is still a busy shipping route and ocean-liners can

be seen crossing it.

As you come to St. Catharines, avoid it as it lacks any character.

Similarly avoid the next big city: Hamilton. Hamilton does have

character, but mostly it is bad and smelly.

In Burlington, the trail passes through the Royal Botanical Gardens. Whether you are into gardens or not, it is well worth a visit. From sculpted exotic gardens to more natural arboretums, it is quite picturesque. It is also here that the headquarters of the Bruce Trail Association is located, at Raspberry House. The Association is responsible for the formation and upkeep of the Trail.

There are some beautiful waterfalls along this section: Balls

Falls (another naughty snicker), Webster’s Falls, and Tews Falls

(41m. high - the same as Niagara Falls).

Mount

Nemo and the nearby sidetrail of Rattlesnake Point are among the most popular areas in the province for rockclimbing and also offer beautiful views of the landscape. Don’t let the name Rattlesnake Point intimidate you. I have never encountered a rattlesnake on the Trail.

Middle Section: Dundas to Meaford

This part of the trail encompasses the Caledon Hills and

Credit Valley. It is beautiful and quite hilly. Caledon is home

to rich Toronto money and perhaps more than one Mafia boss’ mansion.

The village of Cataract is home to - guess - a cataract (a.k.a.

waterfall) and the ruins of an old mill. There are a lot of hardwood

trees in this part so the autumn colours are absolutely stunning.

Blue Mountain (near Collingwood) at 1,770 feet is the highest

point in Southern Ontario is famous for its ski slopes. However,

Blue Mountain is most famous (infamous) for its blue pottery that is omnipresent in Ontarian homes. This is the classic “swan”, the pride and joy of all Ontario’s happy-homemakers.

North Section: Owen Sound to Tobermory

Now you are entering undoubtedly the best section, the Bruce

Peninsula - it puts the Bruce in Bruce Trail. On one side

is the dramatic Niagara Escarpment forming jagged cliffs and prominent

“lookouts”, and on the other side is the azure blue of Georgian

Bay. It is one of the most naturally beautiful areas I’ve encountered

in the world.

The first city you’ll encounter is Owen Sound, hometown of Tom Thomson, the most famous Canadian artist. They have a fairly good art gallery named after him with a good collection of Group of Seven paintings. Inglis Falls nearby is a stunning 100 ft. drop over terraced rocks.

You’ll also pass through Wiarton, home to the late, great weather

prognosticator, Wiarton Willie (see April article), and Lion’s

Head. The latter was named for a rock formation that supposedly

looks like a lion. I sat in a tavern beholding this formation

and could not remotely see a lion, even after some beers. The

nachos, however, were exemplary.(Hey, after a day of hiking, you’ll

appreciate quality grease.)

Devil’s Pulpit, (a.k.a. Devil’s Monument) is an earthbound flowerpot.

There seems to be a satanic theme to the Bruce Trail as another

section is called Devil’s Glen. I guess that’s due to the twisted

ankles one gets hiking over all the rocks trying to see these

damned things.

Now the best part, Bruce National Park!!!! It is made of three parts:

Fathom Five in Lake Huron is an underwater park, perfect for scuba divers due to the unique geology (the Escarpment is now underwater) and the plethora of shipwrecks.

Flowerpot Island has two flowerpots (basically a large “rock

column”) and a million tourists, but honestly it’s worth the boat

ride to the small island. Take a look at the cool flowerpots.

Then hike the circumference of the island, which is ruggedly scenic

and more private.

Cypress Lake is on the tip of the Bruce Peninsula, near Tobermory.

There is lots of good hiking here. Trails take you through wetlands,

forests and lakes, dramatic cliffs next to Georgian Bay, and to

the popular Grotto. The camping there is very good, as sites are

spacious and quite natural. The park is renowned for its orchids.

Normally, I don’t get excited about wildflowers, but they really

are spectacular - all the more beautiful knowing that nature created

it and not some freak with tons of chemical fertilizer and pesticides.

The town of Tobermory

is pleasant enough. It is a bit touristy, with some good arts

and crafts stores surrounding its Little Tub harbour. It is most

famous for the debarkation point for the Chi-cheemaun

Ferry that takes one to Manitoulin Island, a popular yet disappointing, destination. Manitoulin is the world’s largest freshwater island.

If you have hiked the entire trail then you’ll certainly appreciate

that survival is more than a theme.

Update: Survival can’t be too much of an issue for Canadians

as the United Nations just voted us the best country to live in

for the sixth consecutive year! Kickass!!!

Questions?

If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.