Victoria, BC - February 2000
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Stumble It!Romance in the Air
Ah, true love - Valentine's Day and all that. Victoria has the reputation of being a honeymoon destination, so it seemed an appropriate focus for this month. So, all you romantics, here are some possibilities.
First, there's that all important hotel room. You want it to be just right, to exude that special atmosphere. All the plush places have cozy, intimate atmospheres and love to play host to honeymooners. I'd especially recommend Abigail's or Prior House. Check out their "romantic" packages.
If you don't feel like stirring from your room for a while and are looking for room service, try the Empress Hotel, a restored 1908 hotel located on Victoria's Inner Harbour. Its location and views (from the front rooms) are its prime characteristics. The hotel is presenting a wintertime Victoria's Secret Season special - a great bargain - which includes accommodation, a full buffet breakfast for two, a discount coupon booklet for various Victoria attractions (and, if you stay two or more nights, one sitting for high tea for two is included).
Another recommended honeymoon hotel is the Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa, also located on the waterfront but across the Johnson St. bridge - that big blue thing that you can see from the Inner Harbour.
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Once you venture from your hotel room, take a horse drawn carriage ride right from your hotel door through Beacon Hill Park, 185 acres (75 hectares) of flowers, trees, duck ponds and walking paths or stroll along the scenic Dallas Road waterfront. If the weather's stormy, it's great fun to watch the waves crashing and try to dodge the spray. At night a carriage ride along the Inner Harbour to see the lighted Parliament Buildings is a beautiful sight.
Search out treasures for your new home along my favorite "stroll" street, Fort St., sometimes called Antique Row. Start at Government Street downtown and wend your way up Fort. But be warned, Victoria is an expensive place to purchase antiques. Browsing may be the best bet. Still, if you're looking for one special honeymoon remembrance, there are affordable treasures to be discovered.
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For a special piece of gently used sterling or other silverware, Classic Silverware can't be beat. Many shops carry discontinued English and European china patterns (cups and saucers are reasonably priced) and other decorative antique items. There are lots of shops on this street with interesting home accessories to make your "cocooning" special.
If you continue along Fort St. (about a 30 minute walk from town, if you don't stop along the way), you'll eventually come to one man's tribute to his wife that all romantics can now share. Craigdarroch Castle, one of the most famous heritage buildings in Victoria and a designated National Historic Site, is located just off Fort, at 1050 Joan Crescent. Built in 1887 by Robert Dunsmuir, a rich Scottish coal baron, for his wife, he died before he had the opportunity to live in it, but his wife and daughters were able to enjoy this expensive passion.
It's filled with beautiful stained and leaded glass, Victorian furnishings and decorative arts. The tour is self-guided with docents around to answer questions. The rich woodwork is beautiful, and the magnificent multi-storied staircase is a bride's dream to descend on a wedding day. The view from the top floor is fantastic. If it's pouring rain - likely this time of year - you can catch bus number 11 or 14 from town up Fort St. to the foot of Joan Crescent. The castle's open from 10am to 5pm in winter season.
On your stroll back downtown along Fort, there's two places I'd recommend for lunch, Villa Ristorante specializes in Italian style salads, pastas and pizzas. You can put together your own pizza from their list of ingredients. Cafe Brio boasts fresh West Coast contemporary fare with an emphasis on seafood. Organic ingredients are used whenever possible. Just reading their menu can make your mouth water.
If you're both book lovers, Victoria is replete with used book shops, and two of my favorites on Fort St are worth a stop. Wells has many out of print and in-great-condition used books. But you can't beat Russell's for unlimited browsing and reasonable prices. When you've finished searching the first floor shelves, take the steps outside the store to the second floor where thousands and thousands of used paperbacks await. If books are your thing, you could spend your whole honeymoon (well, almost) here.
In the evening, splurge on a formal meal at the upscale (this is your honeymoon, after all) Empress Dining Room at the Empress Hotel, or The Victorian at the Ocean Pointe Resort. My choice for casual and less expensive eating out would be the lively atmosphere and great food of Spinnakers Pub. Located an easy 15 minute, waterfront walk from the Inner Harbour across the Johnson St. bridge, Spinnaker's is famous for their home brew. Ask for a table by the fireplace or overlooking the water.
Quirky Stuff
Victoria likes to brag that its weather is the best in Canada. It even goes so far as to call itself the "banana belt" of Canada. To further emphasize the point, it holds a flower count in February so it can thumb its nose at the rest of the country. From February 21-26 you will see residents of Victoria dropping to their knees in gardens and city parks, counting flowers.
"Mission Control" is located in Victoria's downtown Eaton Centre shopping mall where daily counts are posted. Since final totals often run in the millions, I secretly suspect that volunteers are counting individual blossoms, not just the flower head, in the total. TV and the local newspaper, the Times Colonist, even cover the event.
February Events
The Chinese New Year is February 5th. Most celebrations are private family affairs, but there is a public Lion's Dance on February 6th at 1pm at the colourful Gate of Harmony in Victoria's one-block-long Chinatown.
For film buffs the Victoria Independent Film and Video Festival takes place February 4-10th. Over 100 features, shorts, documentaries, opening gala, etc. on display. For tickets call 250-389-0444.
For wine connoisseurs there's the Pacific Northwest Wine Festival: a celebration of local food and wine. 50 wineries present their wares for tastings at dinners and seminars from February 3-6. For further information and prices call 250-385-6515.
Essential Information
Victoria Carriage Tours
Reservations at (250)383-2207 or (250)389-2286 or email carriage@islandnet.com.
Another company that provides horse drawn rides is Tally-Ho. Be sure to book their carriage, not their big vehicle that carries 20 or more.
Villa Rosa Ristorante
1015 Fort St.
(250)384-5337
Soups, antipasti, salads from $5 Canadian
Seafood, pasta and other mains from $11.95
Pizzas from $11.95
Dinner reservations recommended
©2000 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media, without documented permission from the author is prohibited. Image Beacon Hill Park by the author. Image carriage courtesy Victoria Carriage Tours. Image lamppost courtesy Classic Silverware.
Location
Victoria, a world renowned tourist destination and capital city of British Columbia, is nestled on the southern tip of Vancouver Island.
It's about as far west as you can get in Canada - just across the Strait of Georgia from the city of Vancouver on Canada's mainland and 85 miles northwest across the Juan de Fuca Strait from Seattle.
The jagged coastline boasts stunning views, and the mild climate allows gardens to run rampant. It's no wonder Travel and Leisure voted it one of the 10 best cities in the world to visit.
The downtown, embraced by the water and the bustling Inner Harbour (map), is busy and vibrant. Tourism is big business here, and it's royally catered to.
Once a British colonial outpost, Greater Victoria (Victoria and its outlying areas) now sports a population of more than 300,000. Although it still retains remnants of its past in high teas, hanging baskets and shops filled with British goods, Victoria today is alive with sidewalk cafes, night life, cosmopolitan dining, superb shopping and cultural activities.
The Victoria Visitor's Information Centre is located on the Inner Harbour. There are free maps and brochures on accommodations, attractions, restaurants, services, tours, cultural events, festivals and more. There is also a ticket outlet in the Centre.
Call them at 1-800-663-3883 or
(250) 953-2033
Email info@travel.victoria.bc.ca
Seeing the City
There are lots of ways to get around Greater Victoria. The least expensive are the public bus system (B.C. Transit, 250-385-2551, from $1.25) and bike and scooter rentals.
Being a tourist Mecca means several companies run scenic tours - there's double-decker or horse-drawn carriages plying their wares, but they aren't cheap. Tiny water tugs ply the Inner Harbour for great views of the shoreline.
There's always car rentals (not really necessary here where everything is either accessible on foot or by bus). Taxis are available but costly. From the airport take the Airporter mini-bus, cheaper than a taxi, to downtown Victoria.
Money
It should be noted that all prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars. For up to date currency rates, click here.
Weather
Best site for weather and local forecasts.
Smoking
Victoria is totally nonsmoking indoors. Restaurants, pubs, nightclubs, hotels, public transportation, office buildings, etc. etc. No one is allowed to smoke anywhere inside any building. Outdoors is okay.
The Author
I grew up in Texas (friendly people), summered on the Gulf Coast and lived in several other states before moving to Canada. The Rockies and the Yukon were home for a while.
Victoria, BC on Vancouver Island is my permanent location, unless I win the lottery. Then I'll be off to Britain, the land I love. My hobbies are history, historical architecture and reading.
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