Grappa Delight – Bassano della Grappa, Veneto, Italy

Grappa Delight
Bassano della Grappa, Veneto, Italy
Photos by Todd Johnson

The best way to explore Bassano della Grappa is pleasantly buzzed on the free samples of grappa handed out by the local distilleries that line the main road in town. For the uninitiated, grappa is the traditional Italian drink made from pomace, the pressed skin and grapes after winemaking, and the result is a clear strong liqueur between 80 or 90 proof. It only takes two or three sips for the undiluted strength and warmth of the liqueur to take effect.

Alpini Enjoying the Sun from Palladio’s Bridge

Bassano is a postcard-perfect hilltown at the base of the Dolomites, the first place where grappa was distilled for commercial distribution. Bassano is also rich in history, having been home to one of the more famous battles of World War I, and the headquarters of the Alpini, Italy’s highly esteemed mountain brigade of soldiers. Even so, the tourism board clearly understands what the main draw is, and wisely couples its cultural heritage with its main export. As such, counted among the sites to visit during a day trip to Bassano are the Museo degli Alpini/Taverna, and the Museo del Grappa.

The Museo degli Alpini is nestled next to Bassano’s other famous landmark, Palladio’s wooden bridge, built in 1569. The bridge, comprised of four trapezoidal breakwater piers, supporting a wooden deck, and covered by a trussed roof spans the Brenta River, offers majestic views of the Valsugana valley and snow covered Dolomite Mountains which rise up in the not far off distance.

On a clear and sunny afternoon, in the hour of the passagiata that falls between lunch and dinner, the residents of Bassano stroll across the bridge pausing to enjoy the view, both of the natural scenery and of their neighbors’ finest wares; seemingly everyone is exquisitely dressed in quilted jackets, silk scarves, and leather boots. They all stop to exchange pleasantries and tidbits of gossip about family and friends. A group of garrulous old men also loiter about. They are Alpini, recognizable by their distinctive Clark Griswold wool hats, each sporting a single long black feather.

At the eastern end of the bridge stands the Museo/Taverna, an Alpine style chateau with a small wooden balcony covered with tables and chairs overlooking the river. The museum offers a wonderful opportunity to learn about Italy’s contributions in World War I, when they were on the right side, and the losses they suffered in World War II, when they were on the decidedly wrong side; as well as maintain the delightful buzz acquired earlier in the day.

A View of the Brenta River from Palladio’s Bridge in the Center of Bassano

The actual museum is somewhat difficult to find, it’s in the basement, down a dark flight of stairs, located behind the bar, but the bartenders will helpfully point interested visitors in the right direction. A flick of the light switch also prompts a hidden sound system to start playing the Italian national anthem and folksy, John Denver-esque Italian mountain songs on rotation. The museum houses letters, photos, recruitment posters, old artillery, and uniforms, including the ubiquitous Alpini hat, and wooden skis worn during Italy’s war for independence from the Austrians in 1870, WWI, and WWII.

The collection has grown over the years as Bassano’s residents have donated personal family artifacts to be put on display for visitors to appreciate the toll that war can take on families in a small town. The most haunting exhibit is a wall of black and white photos taken by a soldier during Italy’s disastrous march across Russia in 1942. One photo in particular shows a long line of corpses lying beneath newly fallen snow.

Before leaving, by all means stop off in the Taverna and fortify yourself with another taste of Grappa, or a stein of wheat beer. If the sun is shining, join the locals on the balcony overlooking the river, and appreciate a different perspective of Palladio’s bridge.

Bassano’s other museum is housed in the Poli distillery and features an exhibit on the history and production of Grappa. The first copper vat used to distill grappa in town is housed in a glass display case, as well as a fascinating step by step account describing how Grappa is distilled. On the way out, the “curators”/saleswomen offer a sampling of this season’s popular varieties. My husband and I tried the honey and blueberry, both of which we found just a little too sweet. We much preferred the Tagliatella, brewed by the A. Baggio distillery, a caramel colored grappa that is also sweet, but not as cloying as Poli’s fruit flavored ones.

The First Commercial Grappa Distillery

“It’s especially good with coffee,” the saleslady told us. In fact, the good people of Bassano have a special name for coffee with Grappa. It’s called caffe corretto, as in coffee that’s been corrected with Grappa.

From Padova and Vicenza, Grappa is an hour away on the train, and only half an hour more from Venice. The entire town, including the main piazza, a stroll across the bridge, and some quality time spent in the Museo degli Alpini and the grapperie, can be traversed in an afternoon, and it’s well worth a day’s excursion to appreciate the sights, smells, and tastes Bassano has to offer.