Puerto Escondido: More Beach for Less Money – Puerto Escondido, Mexico

By: Aron English

Puerto Escondido: More Beach for Less Money

Puerto Escondido, Mexico

Puerto Escondido, which means “Hidden Port” in Spanish, was established as a small town in 1928, though it has grown significantly since then. Known for its beautiful beaches, relaxed culture and world famous surfing waves, Puerto Escondido has grown into a relatively popular tourist destination, although it has succeeded in retaining a low key and low priced atmosphere. What I like most about Puerto Escondido is how unlike a resort town the place feels – it’s a down to earth the community of surfers, expatriates and locals who seem more interested in enjoying themselves and the beautiful weather than in upholding pretensions of wealth or status.

I had the opportunity to spend four days at Puerto Escondido during a break between terms at the school I attend in Oaxaca. The highest praise I can give Puerto Escondido is to say that I don’t at all consider myself a “beach person” (I’d rather have adventures than lie around in the sun – to each their own!) but that I had more fun at P.E., for less money, than almost anywhere else I’ve been in the world. Puerto Escondido is a beach community that has something for everyone, from the surf enthusiast, to the beach bum, to casual shopper.

Acknowledgements
This guide was written in November 2005. At this time the exchange rate for U.S. Dollars into Pesos is approximately 1:11. Prices will be listed in pesos and are subject to change. November is part of the low season (high season is in December and January) and as such prices listed here may be lower than at other times of the year.

Getting There
By Van: A seat in a fifteen passenger van costs about 150 pesos. The van travels through a windy mountain road and takes about five and half hours to reach Puerto Escondido from Oaxaca, depending on weather conditions and the conditions of the road, which is difficult to maneuver at the best of times. I am lucky in that I don’t get motion sickness, but as we found out, my two companions do, and both were feeling quite sick by the end of the ride, which felt like five hours of non-stop cornering. Although the fastest option for reaching P.E., one prone to motion sickness or uncomfortable with bumping shoulders with their neighbors during the journey may prefer a different mode of travel. The van stops in Puchutlo, a small Pueblo about 45 minutes from the beach. From Puchutlo a taxi can be obtained for about 100 pesos a person to P.E. Despite the inconvenience of the van and the additional cost of the taxi, I preferred riding in the van over the bus since I just wanted to get to the beach as fast as possible!

By Bus: The bus to Puerto Escondido from Oaxaca is the most economical transportation available. A ticket for the first class bus costs about $12 and the ride takes between seven and nine hours depending on conditions and the level of caution practiced by the driver (the one driving the bus I was on preferred playing with his cell phone and adjusting the radio to having his hands on the wheel, but we made good time!). A night bus can be taken for those who prefer to attempt to sleep the journey away, although it appeared that most of the people on the bus, myself included, found this nearly impossible. Purchase tickets for the bus a day or two in advance since they tend to sell out.

By plane: A one-way plane ticket from Oaxaca can be purchased for about 1,200 pesos and the takes about an hour and a half to reach Puerto Escondido. If money is not a concern, I would certainly recommend flying.

Where to Stay:
Between the sleepy town on the hill above the beach and the beach itself, one has literally dozens of hotel choices. I would recommend something on the main beach, Zicatela, since it’s closest to the action. The area offers several high quality, relatively low cost options. Make reservations ahead of time if you plan on visiting the beach during high season.

Casa Olga: Located at the far south end of Playa Zicatela and hidden from view of the road, Casa Olga is a secluded condominium where one can lounge by the pool sipping cervezas or enjoy conversation with the variety of international visitors that pass through. I stayed at Casa Olga for three nights and was impressed by the hospitality displayed by Olga and the quality of the rooms, each of which came with comfortable beds, a view of the ocean and a private bathroom. For 500 pesos a night my two friends and I rented a room with two double beds. The Casa has no phone number or address (yes, it’s really that secluded!) – ask a taxi driver to show you where it is.

Rockaway: Also located on the south end is Hotel Rockaway, a trendy surf haven of clean, fenced-in cabanas. Each room sleeps four and has a private bathroom. Add a spacious pool patio and an outdoor bar and it’s no wonder that Rockaway is a hot spot for nightlife. During low season the cabanas run for about 250 pesos per night for four people and significantly less for smaller cabanas. The prices rise slightly during high season. Find the Rockaway at Av. del Morro, Playa Zicatela, Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca 71980, tel. 954-582-0668.

Casas de Playa Acali: If you’re looking for something more rustic or a more ‘authentic’ beach cabana, try Casas de Playa Acali, which contains a series of cabanas built out of sticks and plank floors inside a mini-jungle. I went on a tour of the grounds and the units appeared clean and well equipped with mosquito nets and private bathrooms. Prices run about 250 pesos a night for a triple during low season and slightly more during higher seasons. Av. del Morro, P.O. Box 11, Puerto Escondido 71980, tel. 954-582-0278, bungalowsacali@puertoconnection.com.

Where to Eat
Although there are many restaurants to choose from, I can only recommend the restaurants along the Playa Zicatela near where I stayed.

Cafecito: Located along the main Zicatela strip called Avenida Perez Gasga and run by an expatriate Canadian couple, Cafecito is a hip surfer hangout that offers a wide variety of tasty, low cost meals from 25-60 pesos, although the service is often “relaxed”. If you have time to spare, it’s worth the wait. Try the vegetarian omelet for breakfast and hamburger for lunch or dinner.

Jardin: Located at the other end of Avenida Perez Gasga, Jardin (garden in Spanish) offers a huge selection of everything from pasta, to burgers, to traditional Mexican food, to delicious vegetarian food. Don’t miss their fruit smoothies. Prices range from 30-70 pesos for a good sized meal.

The Pizzeria: There are an inordinately large number of Italian food restaurants along Avenida Perez Gasga but the best is The Pizzeria located at the northern end of the street. Go on Thursday nights for a two for one pizza special. If you’re not in the mood for pizza, try the cheese and spinach filled tortellini. Prices range from 60 to 100 pesos for a high quality Italian meal.

Sakura: Sakura is a Japanese restaurant located on the beach side of the street in the middle of the Avenida Perez Gasga strip. Although slightly more expensive than most of the other restaurants, Sakura offers excellent food in a price range of 30 to 125 pesos. Try the chicken burger or teriyaki and avoid the poorly prepared yakisoba. Go at night to enjoy the fantastic open restaurant ambiance while listening to the sound of crashing waves on the beach. If you’re looking to meet other tourists, try Sakura – it seems to be a hub for American, British and Canadian visitors in the evenings.

What to Do
I’ve been to my fair share of beaches around the world and what strikes me as different about Puerto Escondido is that it seems to take pride in being a place where one can ‘do things’, instead of being limited to what I think or normal beach activities like lounging in the sun.

Surf: Playa Zicatela is known as one of the top ten surfing beaches in the world. National competitions take place in November, but local surfers can be seen taming the challenging waves from sunrise to sundown year round. If you’ve never surfed before but would like to try, or if you’re a novice, avoid the Zicatela waves as there is a strong undercurrent that can be dangerous for beginners. Instead hail a taxi and ask for the Surf Shop in La Punta, a calmer beach ten minutes drive south. At the Surf Shop you’ll find Ray, a friendly surf instructor who speaks some English and offers lessons for 350 pesos an hour. Subsequent lessons are less expensive, and one should be able to surf on their own with four hours or less of training. The surf board is included in the lesson price, but can be rented separately for one 180 pesos a day. Surfing is not to be missed! I don’t especially like the water, but I had a blast surfing and with Ray’s expert help I was able to ride good sized waves after only twenty minutes. If you go late in the day, arrange for a taxi to return at an arranged time to pick you up as taxis infrequently drive through La Punta at night.

Body Boarding: If you like the idea of water sports but aren’t sure about surfing, try body boarding at La Punta or on the large waves of Zicatela. Body boarding is easier and less expensive than surfing: Boards can be rented at any surf shop for about 30 pesos an hour.

Snorkel: The water at Puerto Escondido is clear and relatively warm for ocean water. Tropical fish abound off the calm, nearly wave free beach of Puerto Angelito, a ten minute drive north of Avenida Perez Gasga. Although there is not a clearly marked shop renting snorkeling equipment, you’ll probably be approached by merchants offering boat rides or snorkeling equipment. If, however, you are not, ask at one of the nearby restaurants. A mask and flippers costs 50 pesos an hour. The tropical fish I saw were the sort one finds in books, so if you like the idea of exotic sea life, don’t miss snorkeling!

Ride Horses on Zicatela: I’ve only ridden a horse once or twice but I had always wanted to ride down the beach and I had my chance in Puerto Escondido. Horses, complete with guides, can be rented in front of Hotel Santa Fe, Av. del Morro, Play Marinero, Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca 71980, tel. 954-582-0260. Horse rentals are also available in front of the Sakura restaurant. Ask for Salvatore, who charges 120 pesos an hour for a ride down the full length of the beach and back. Wear long pants as the horses occasionally like to nip, as I found out.

Iguana Leg Night Club: Located on the southern end of Avenida Perez Gasga near Casa Olga, the Iguana is a cool night hangout that plays a variety of music from hip-hop to techno and is free of cover charge. The club opens at 3 a.m. and the party lasts until dawn. Additional clubs operate in the main town away from the beach, although many are not open during low season. Ask a cab driver or restaurant employee for more details.

Bum Around on the Beach: If you’re not in the mood for an adventure, Playa Zicatela is an excellent place to lounge around and order an appetizer or a bucket of Corona! Many small food stands dot the beach, and lounge chairs, hammocks and beach umbrellas are widely available for use, free of charge.

What You Should Know

Avoid the beach at night. Knife point robberies are relatively common. If for some reason you must go to the beach at night, go with several other people if possible.
As in all of Mexico, obtaining money from an ATM can be somewhat problematic. Pesos are often dispensed in 500 bills, which can be difficult to change at local markets and smaller shops. Most hotels, restaurants and larger shops, however, will be able to provide change if you purchase something. With a little practice one can master the art of paying for things in Mexico. If that sounds like a hassle, inquire about exchanging larger bills in one of the local banks.
Taxi fares should range between 20 and 40 pesos anywhere in the beach area of Puerto Escondido. Ask about the price before you get in the car. Don’t get in a taxi with other passengers you don’t know.
An internet cafÃ© can be found on Avenida Perez Gasga. The price for usage is 8 pesos for thirty minutes or 15 pesos for an hour.
Several small grocery stores can be found along Avenida Perez Gasga selling small food items, alcohol and personal hygiene products. As with all of Mexico, hygiene products are expensive (even by U.S. standards), including sunscreen. It’s more economical to bring them from home, even if that means carrying more in your luggage.
During my stay in Mexico I have been impressed with the degree to which the people here speak English. If your Spanish is not good, or is non-existent, consider picking up a basic phrase book before your trip. I found that outside of the expatriate community in Puerto Escondido, few people spoke English. Having access to a few key words and phrases could make a difference.

If you are interested in more information about Mexico in general, or Puerto Escondido in specific, check out the Lonely Planet Mexico guide. I borrowed a copy from a British couple in hotel room next to mine and it was filled with a plethora of detailed information.