Oaxacan Pueblos

Oaxaca, Mexico

I haven’t been able to find an official number, but there is something like five hundred pueblos (villages) in the state of Oaxaca. They vary greatly, from mountain communities the size of a small neighborhood to desert towns reminiscent of the towns you might see in a spaghetti western movie. And their diversity stretches beyond their location, as well. Most of the pueblos have a special item or good they produce: Some make rugs, others pottery, some carve and paint small wooden figures, and the list goes on. The profits from these goods, sold in the large markets of Oaxaca City, help round out the income of the pueblo, in addition to farming. It’s easy to see that one doesn’t live a rich, in the material sense of the word, life in the pueblos. Instead life in the pueblos is what you might call quiet, or maybe comfortable would be better, since what’s important isn’t getting rich, or wearing the right clothes, but family, community and nature. I’ve been to about a dozen pueblos in the three months I’ve spent in Oaxaca, and below is a list of some of the pueblos I’ve enjoyed most.

Cuajimoloyas

Cuajimoloyas

Located in the mountains at over 9,000 feet, Cuajimoloyas is populated by about one thousand residents. The pueblo contains two restaurants, a modest hotel, and a general store. But you don’t go to Cuajimoloyas to eat or to shop. The view of the mountains, particularly from the look out rock just outside the pueblo, will take your breath away (the fact that you would be at 10,000 feet may also affect your ability to breathe!). The trip to Cuajimoloyas, which takes about two hours by bus from Oaxaca City, is worth it for the view alone, but if you get restless, there are caves to explore, waterfalls to see and many hikes to take through the mountain forest surrounding the town. You may also rent a guide to take you mountain biking or horseback riding. If you can, wait for the last bus back to Oaxaca, which leaves at about 6 pm – watching the sunset as you ride down the mountain is something you don’t want to pass up. Buses to Cuajimoloyas leave from the main bus station in Oaxaca City, ADO, for less than thirty pesos.

Teotitlan del Valle
Located several thousand feet below Cuajimoloyas is Teotitlan del Valle, a small village primarily consisting of rug makers who weave traditional rugs with Zapotec designs and natural materials. Although before going I wouldn’t have imagined that watching the rug making process could be fun or interesting, it was both. Watching the weavers create various colors of dye from natural materials (including insects they squish with their hands to make the red dye!) and then watching them put the dyed wool on their looms to create rugs was almost jaw dropping. Whether you think you’d like to buy a rug or not, or whether you even like rugs, this is a cultural experience that you should have. You can sign up for tours to Teotitlan del Valle at Mano Magica: Alcala 203; Tel: 951 514 3733. If you’d rather skip the group and move at your own pace you can hire a private car and driver at Independencia 1501; Tel: 515 5707; Email: roger@rugsoaxaca.com.

Tule
Located about thirty minutes from Oaxaca City, Tule is home to the largest living tree in the world. I’m not sure exactly how large it is, but it’s big – the base is roughly the size of two normal sized houses put together. The tree alone is probably worth seeing, although Tule itself has a lot to offer as well, including several small markets and a plethora of restaurants. Try one of the restaurants just past the tree and order a helping of the chile rellenos (jalapenos peppers stuffed with chicken and cheese) – they’re spicy but delicious!

Cuilapan de Guerrero
This quaint town is beautiful in and of itself, but it’s also home to an ex-convent built by Dominican friars in the sixteenth century. The convent is architecturally unique in that it first appears to be a castle, since it was built with defense in mind. Inside, however, it opens to spacious court yards that were used during evangelization rituals. Portions of beautiful murals original to the convent can still be viewed inside the walls. The entrance fee is 24 pesos and the convent is open between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. Many buses from Oaxaca City frequently arrive at the convent.

Additional information regarding these pueblos or tours to these pueblos can be found by Google searching the pueblo name you are interested in.