Introduction - Oviedo & Asturias, Spain Travel Guide

Intro: Welcome to Oviedo & Asturias

Away from the dust-flying heat of southern Spain, Asturias offers an entirely different perspective of everything that is Spanish. It replaces refreshing gazpacho with a hearty fabada, flamenco clapping with the Celtic bagpipe, and pitchers of sangria with bottles of cider (sidra) poured from high over the shoulder. The region has as many sunny, sandy beaches as it does snowy, rugged mountain terrain, which makes it ideal for the outdoor enthusiast or anyone who appreciates beautiful scenery. Perhaps this is why the Asturians call their region the “paradiso natural”, the natural paradise. As one of the country’s less frequently visited regions, it is probably one of Spain’s best-kept secrets.

Oviedo, the region’s capital, is a highly commercial mid-sized city (pop. 200,000) with an active cultural life. It is the home of some of Spain’s most important pre-Romanic ruins, the University of Oviedo, the Prince of Asturias Awards, and the gothic Cathedral of San Salvador. Most of all, its central location is ideal for exploring the rest of Asturias. Within a half hour in each direction you’re either on a beach or in the mountains, and the fact that it’s a transportation hub makes it easy to escape from the occasionally stifling hustle and bustle.

Ovetenses take great pride in their city, adorning it with sculptures (the newest of which is a giant-sized buttocks), preserving ancient facades, setting aside natural park zones throughout the city, and taking great care in preserving the city’s appearance in general.

The city has been recognized both nationally and internationally for its litter-free streets maintained by a nightly clean up crew that soaps up and scrubs down the sidewalks.

The amount of pride that Asturians in general have for their patria overflows out of their tiny strip of the Iberian peninsula. It’s not uncommon to hear the locals say that Asturias is Spain and the rest is conquered land (”Asturias es Espa&ntidle;a y lo demàs es tierra conquistada). According to Spanish history, during the Moorish conquest of Spain, the Moors were unable to penetrate Asturias due to its rugged mountain terrain and, according to the Asturians, due to the faithful protection of the Virgin of Covadonga. Because of this, the Moors were forced to retreat and the region of Asturias remained the only unconquered part of what is today known as Spain. From this tiny Christian refuge the Christian reconquest gathered forces and was able to recuperate the peninsula years later. The Virgin of Covadonga is still particularly important to Asturians, as she serves as their patron saint and her image can be seen all over the region.

Spending a week in Asturias, you’re just as likely to see clear skies daily as you are rain clouds. Much like those from southern Spain thrive on the summer heat, Asturians thrive on the unpredictable rain. It’s not rare to leave the house on a seemingly nice, clear day only later to find yourself amidst a sea of umbrellas due to what the locals call “orbayu”, the kind of rain that still soaks but is virtually invisible. Rain can be expected in pretty much every season, although is less frequent during the summer, but it’s hard to complain with one glance around at the endless greenery and so much else within reach.

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