Pass of Killercrankie Visitors’ Center
The drinks we had at Perth had hit bottom by the time we reached the visitors’ center at the Pass of Killercrankie. We were surprised to find excellent restroom facilities and a small shop there. This would be the norm for much of the Highlands. In the midst of the woods, we inhaled the purity of the mountain air and we soaked up the beauty of the variety of trees and sculpted hills with young green flourishes in preparation for summer. The unspoiled scenery made me think about the preponderance of signs and billboards that would block much of the view had I been standing at a similar location in my own country.
Two hours of driving exposed few flaws in the quality of the road surface. Even damp weather did not seem to affect my sense of safety. The series of drainage grates along some areas of the highway was almost too much. Our own highway designers could learn a few things from these folks. I felt safer while driving there in spite of the left-handed thing.
As the mountains closed in on the road the bright yellow blooms of the gorse seemed like tiny explosions from the variable greens and rock outcroppings that mottled the slopes. Even though a weed by Scottish standards, gorse illuminates the landscape like the sun had fallen through the clouds and smashed into a millions pieces scattered about the Highlands.
The remarkable terrain transformed the fangs of apprehension that gnawed on me into gentle fingers of consolation. Oh, the left-handed thing still required a bit of my attention, but I felt more relaxed as we zipped along the highway that meandered around the slopes. I was not concerned about missing a turn because the intersections and roads were well marked.
Signs placed several miles before intersections alerted drivers, and again approaching the intersections, and finally the intersections were clearly identified. I had no trouble finding the turn toward Aviemore.
Stakis Coylumbridge Resort and Hotel
A village flavor suited the few larger-than-life hotels that loomed above the small shops along the main street of Aviemore and the late afternoon sun cast dull shadows through the clouds. Otherwise, it was like dragging Main in “Smalltown, USA.” We drove through the town once looking for something that might lead us to the Stakis Coylumbridge Resort.
I again yielded to the impetuousness of my sister-in-law. After asking directions at a petrol station, she directed us about two miles east of the town. We registered at the rental office downhill from the hotel and followed the very narrow road through the rambling complex of duplex type structures to our unit. Then we ripped ourselves from the seats and stood once again. Like water falling on dehydrated sponges, we unfolded and regained our natural postures.
I expected much smaller quarters than the generous two-story A-frame duplex provided. We entered past a bathroom and mud-room to a small kitchen outfitted with all necessary appliances and some that weren’t necessary. It opened to a dining area and a living room with a small game room behind. Two large bedrooms with baths upstairs were more than adequate. An abundance of storage closets held our things and even the overcast sky did not keep light from reaching through the many windows. A porch of the living area and a balcony upstairs also provided an opportunity to enjoy the outdoors in the less chilly parts of the day.
It was five o’clock when we reached the lodge and hunger was setting in. Our check-in provided us with a dining appointment at the hotel restaurant for seven-thirty. Due to the large number of guests, dining hours are assigned in the restaurant to accommodate everyone. We freshened up and headed for the hotel. I surveyed the menu and the buffet for familiar entrees but some of the traditional Scottish dishes escaped recognition. Our first real dining experience in Scotland gave us all a taste of the wonderful things to come.
Even at the late hour we returned to our unit the sun was still hanging low behind the deepening blue of the sky and little sunlight reached through the shelter of the woods. This time of year nighttime is shortened by a late sunset at about ten and a very early sunrise before five. The cool environment makes energy conservation an important consideration. Most appliances and fixtures were controlled by wall switches.
The guide book was very helpful in understanding how the utility systems operated. After the third reading, it all became clear enough that we could actually use some of the appliances. It did take a little while to discover that the pull chain on the wall near the bathtub turned on the pump for the shower which is why my wife took a bath the first night there.
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