Nanjing – Stuck Inside of Nanjing With The Mobile Blues Again

My Wife At China Mobile

My Wife At China Mobile

With the blue China Mobile sign seemingly on every storefront in China, you would think it would be a simple process to add minutes to our cell phone. However, such is not the case. We purchased an unlocked phone in Malaysia and all along
have been purchasing SIM cards and adding minutes to it (topping off), in every country we’ve been to. Even in the backwoods of Laos, we were able to purchase extra minutes.

In China, we struggle to add minutes to our SIM card. It seems that when you travel
between provinces, the old SIM card stops working, as if China Mobile is not efficiently
networked throughout the country. At least, that’s the best we could figure out,
after repeated efforts in many of these stores.

We enter the store, show the phone, show the SIM card, and

Zijin Mountain, Nanjing

Zijin Mountain, Nanjing

gesture that we want to add more minutes. We even display the old ‘top off’ cards
we bought along the way, and exclaim ‘same-same’. We would undertake to do this
ourselves, except for the fact that the instructions are in Chinese. This
requires someone at China Mobile to scratch off the serial number, call it in,
and follow the instructions. More times than not, the people behind the desk
shrug or shake their heads – ‘no no’ they say – cannot do, with no further
explanation. Eventually, we do find someone who understands, and they manage to
add minutes, though sometimes I doubt it’s worth the aggravation.

Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre

Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre

We do use our Skype service quite a bit, and it’s a bargain
rate of two cents a minute back to America. Although certainly cheaper
than the calling cards, the quality of the call is generally not as good, as
you occasionally lose the connection. Besides, sometimes it’s just not
convenient to have an internet connection, and the freedom of a cell phone is
preferable. Moreover, our mother has a number to call in case of an emergency.

Nanjing (‘Nan
jing’) is a comfortable and worthwhile city (population 5.2 million), famous in
prior years as a former capital and seat of power. At one time, the city was
surrounded by a Ming wall, much of which remains in place, with some of the
original Ming gates intact. There are enough interesting sites to keep you
occupied for a few days, and we never lacked sightseeing opportunities the five
days we were in town.

Old Ming City Walls of Nanjing

Old Ming City Walls of Nanjing

Most importantly, we were able to stop at the Public Service
Bureau (PSB), where we successfully acquired 30-day extensions for our Chinese
visas at the inflated price of $130/each. Even though it’s just another piece
of paper glued into your passport, they still required the keeping of our
passports for three days, something that’s always worrisome for me, since I
don’t like to see our passports sitting on a shelf in some government office
for that long.

Homemade Bamboo Baby Carrier

Homemade Bamboo Baby Carrier

Negotiating visas over the last few months has been
relatively painless, although the costs do add up quickly. Our advice is get
the longest amount of time on your visa as you can up front when you apply. It
may cost more, but it’s more efficient that way, and they certainly don’t care
if you leave the country early.

So, what’s to do in Nanjing?
For starters, the must see site is the newly opened ‘Memorial Hall of the
Nanjing Massacre’ (free admission), a sprawling and well designed site
detailing the horrific events of 1937, when the Japanese invaded China, seized
the town of Nanjing, and proceeded to cruelly slaughter 300,000 innocent
civilians. The most shocking aspect of this memorial is the site placement. Built
directly on top of the actual killing grounds, the burial pit is exposed and
hundreds of skeletons are strewn about, a grim testament to this senseless act of
savagery.

Chilling photographs archive the horror of the siege, the
events

Wandering Around Zijin Mountain

Wandering Around Zijin Mountain

leading up to it, and the trial of those responsible after the war. The
cruelty perpetuated by the invading Japanese is particularly offensive, with victims
killed for sport (daily kill contests to see who could kill the most people), or
used for bayonet practice, while many of the women were consigned to comfort
stations where they were repeatedly raped. It’s no wonder the Chinese hate the
Japanese – this memorial gives 300,000 reasons why.

On a lighter note, there is a wonderful wooded park just on
the outskirts of town – Zijin Mountain – that contains the mausoleum of Dr Sun Yatsen,
the George Washington of China.
Early in the 19th century, he led the movement to overthrow the
feudal dynasty that had ruled China
for hundreds of years, replacing it with a new government for the people, with
many forward thinking projects, including building of canals and reservoirs,
transportation networks and public schools. Spend a few days wandering around
on the well signed paths and check out the other sites – Linggu temple, and the
Beamless Hall, all easily accessed by local bus. Nearby is the 14th
century Ming Xiaoling Tomb, the only Ming emperor to be buried outside of Beijing. Unfortunately, it
was closed for renovation, although they took my nine bucks and did not mention
this fact.

In town is another free attraction, the Nanjing Museum,

The Grasshopper Merchant of Suzhou

The Grasshopper Merchant of Suzhou

containing a notable collection of antiquities, including earthenware,
porcelain, bronze, silk, gold and jade objects. We are impressed by the amount
of cultural history that China
possesses (and wasn’t destroyed by the revered Chairman Mao), with many
articles dating back to 5000 BC. After taking quite a few pictures throughout
the museum, a guard sternly shook his finger at me and told me ‘no photo’. Honestly,
I did not see a sign saying ‘no pictures allowed’. Well worth spending few
hours at, just don’t take any pictures.

Loved These Bamboo Ladders

Loved These Bamboo Ladders

Next stop was the historic town of Suzhou (‘Sue joe’), famous for its centuries
old gardens and nearby canal towns. We spent three quality days here and could
have stayed longer. In fact, if I had to choose, I would stay here instead of Nanjing. It’s more
condensed, has a nice downtown area, lovely canals, and intriguing examples of
Chinese architecture. Moreover, it seemed to have fewer tourists. Not to
mention the unusual character on the bike who rode around with stacks of tiny cages,
each containing a single grasshopper, all chirping away. Obviously, for sale,
we were not sure why people bought them. Do you let them go for good luck?

Humble Administrator's Garden, Suzhou

Humble Administrator’s Garden, Suzhou

Throughout this lovely city are many old gardens, previously
owned by the wealthy citizens of the town. At one time, there were many
hundreds, while today only a few dozen survive. The most impressive is the
‘Humble Administrator’s Garden’, set amidst thirty acres of wonderfully
manicured gardens and bamboo forests. Water lily ponds are tucked next to
traditional pagodas, and granite bridges span tinkling ponds packed with
colorful carp. If only you could have the place to yourself. The trails are
impressively packed with visitors, somewhat detracting from the peaceful
atmosphere.

There are many other smaller gardens around town, but choose
carefully. Honestly, after a while, they all look the same and few are free.
What is free is the fresh and modern Suzhou
Museum, right next door
to the ‘Humble Administrator’s Garden’, containing a lovely and immaculate
collection of ancient artifacts from the 3rd-5th centuries BC. Impressive and well
signed in English.

Tongli, a colorful and popular attraction just outside of Suzhou,

Lovely Canals of Tongli

Lovely Canals of Tongli

contains an
interesting assemblage of old buildings built on a series of canals. Centuries
ago, Marco Polo – this guy really got around – fairly observed that it was the
‘Venice of the Far East’.
Here you will find the notorious yet fairly tame ‘Chinese Sex
Museum’, containing a
collection of erotica through the ages – statues, and porcelain paintings depicting
various sex acts.

Tongli Artist

Tongli Artist

One of the local artists in town was quite delightful and
thrilled to be talking with American tourists. We searched through his large
selection of silk paintings at dirt-cheap prices, and bought four of them. He then
painted our name in Chinese characters, followed by a welcome sign, all the time
laughing and giggling.

China
sits amidst unparalleled prosperity. Editorials in the Chinese

Chinese Pedicab

Chinese Pedicab

paper extol
their new place in the world order, and sympathize with a decaying America.
There’s a certain smugness in the Chinese papers that irritates me, that
suddenly America is second
rate and China
is the new leader of the world. Why then, can I not access my blog in this
modern country? Why do I have to pretend I’m in Argentina by using a fake IP
address?

Next stop Shanghai, home to the best shopping in Asia, where
we plan to stock up on souvenirs and purchase a couple of fake Rolex watches.
Then we finish our last month in China,
with stops in Xian and Beijing, and a side trip
to another one of China’s
sacred mountains – Hua Shan. I just hope and pray we added enough minutes to

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our cell phone to last another month.<-->

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