Thaipusam at the Batu Caves – Malaysia

It is the middle of the night, the heat is overwhelming inside the
squeeze of a million people and we have come to a terrifying stop. I
look to my husband Dave for reassurance but he cannot help me. Panic
has set in and I cannot move, escape, or breathe.

In the past, masses of people have been trampled to death in this
exact situation. 244 people were killed during the 2004 Hajj in Mecca,
and I can’t help but think about that now. Could it possibly happen to
me as well? A flash enters my brain, and I envision the headlines back
home in Toronto. "Two Canadians Crushed to Death in South East Asia."

Batu Caves

I am at the Batu Caves just outside of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Thaipusam, the astonishing Hindu Festival is taking place and according
to the papers, 1.5 million people will be attending this year. For
three days, worshippers pay tribute to the Lord Murugan by, having
spike’s driven through their cheeks and tongues, inserting hooks into
their flesh and carrying offerings up 272 steps to the Cave’s massive
chamber. Some people carry Kevadi’s, giant cages made of steal.
Decorated with vibrant ribbons and peacock feathers, it takes four men
to lift it onto the shoulders of the brave soul who dares to take on
such a feat. Others have large hooks stuck into their backs attached to
a chariot that they drag along or have a person pulling on the reigns
to add to the burden. The greater the pain, the better chance of having
their prayers answered.

Burdens

People take part in Thaipusam for different reasons. To give thanks
for a miracle that has happened in their lives, to ask for a wish to be
granted or to seek penance for past sins. Worshippers prepare for their
ordeal by fasting, meditating and abstaining from worldly pleasures.

As we sway in the wave of bodies, the people around me seem
oblivious to the danger. Drums are beating, people are chanting in the
dark and a young boy is quickly becoming wedged between me, and the
wall of people that is holding us in place. A woman is laughing madly
and I wonder Is this the last thing I will see before my death?
Suddenly a calm passes over me, and I give into the rhythm. Just then,
Dave takes my hand and pulls me through a small opening where we
finally push our way to the edge of the crowd.

Looking on from the safety of a drainage pipe spanning a small
river, I am relieved to simply watch the never-ending stream of people
pass by.

Chinatown, beginning of procession

We began our evening in Chinatown in the heart of Kuala Lumpur. Starting at the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, we looked on as thousands of worshipers began
their procession at midnight. The long snake of people would walk for
15 km behind the Silver Chariot carrying the idol of Lord Murugan
before their arrival at the base of the Batu Caves.

We arrive at the Batu Caves by local bus late in the night. It is a
spectacular sight. A neon lit midway and Ferris wheel are set up at the
base of the high cliffs. Vendors line the path of the procession as
thousands of people make their way to the steps of the Batu Cave. The
modern lights are a strange contrast to the ancient ceremony.

Piercings

The rhythm of the drums is intoxicating and people are chanting Vel
Vel as worshippers continuously walk by. Sometimes devotees will break
into a wild dance or let out a primal scream. Their wide eyes see
through me as I snap my camera and I am amazed at how easily they float
through the thick crowd.

Difficult task

The celebration continues though to the next day and worshippers are
committed as ever, but the intense sun makes the task seem more
impossible. One-man begins to foam at the mouth before collapsing under
the weight of his Kevadi and another sways and tries to soothe his
pierced cheeks while others pour water over his head. Miraculously
however, very few people seem to be in pain or discomfort.

The Steps to the Cave

We join the procession feeling braver under the bright sky and make
our way up the steep flight of stairs with thousands of other people.
It is a relief to reach the cool darkness of the caves. Monkeys fight
for bananas overhead, as people have their hooks removed one by one.
Priests stuff hot ash into their wounds and not a drop of blood spills
from the body.

Hooks with the added weight of fruit

In a roped off area, each person awakes from their trance. Some
people faint, some people wail and scream, while others remain silent
and still. Their ordeal is over and burdens are lifted. The cave is now
quiet and calm, a contrast to the enormous energy and excitement of
outside. It seems odd to watch people talking casually and laughing
with each other after witnessing such a shocking event. The festival
has come to an end and the only thing left is the long procession back
to Kuala Lumpur where the Silver Chariot will return to it’s home until
next years ceremony.

More Piercings

People will resume their lives as bankers or students, fathers and
sisters feeling cleansed of their sins, released of their burdens and
grateful for the opportunity to thank their Lord for a wish that he has
granted.

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