Diving Adventure in the Galapagos #5

April 15th – Cusco to Machu Picchu

Wake up call at 0430 for trip to Machu Picchu. Picked up promptly at 0600 by Roberto, our trusty guide, we boarded the train at 0600 for the 3½ hour trip into the Andean wilderness to the Inca city that draws awe and reverence from people the world over.

The train is the only access to this mountain hideaway unless you are hardy enough and have time enough to hike in along the old Inca trail. The train follows the river which for most of its length is #5 whitewater. In other words, impassable and wholly awesome. Because the passage is so difficult, the mountains increasingly rugged and steep, one feels that the altitude has increased from Cusco’s highest point of 11,200 feet. In actuality, we travel downhill all the way to complete our journey at 9,000 feet. The terrain changes from high, dry, and cool to high, wet, and warm.

After the train terminal we traveled by bus to the Machu Picchu lodge and entry gate and then followed a footpath for a short distance. All along our way are wild orchids, lady slippers, daisies, and zillions of bromeliads growing on nearly every available surface. We were so entranced with our surroundings that the sudden left turn out of a short, narrow passage caught us all by surprise.

Suddenly, without warning, Machu Picchu lay spread below us. It’s not possible to prepare oneself for the impact of this view. The dignity of the city and the absolute majesty of its setting is unparalleled. There is honestly no way to describe the beauty – no, splendor – of this sight. We were all speechless except David, who after a brief pause, summed up the experience as well as humanly possible with an awed, whispered “God Almighty!”. And it was not a profane exclamation!

For 3 hours, under Roberto’s expert tutelage, we toured the ruins. The city, 700-800 years old, once housed around 2000 people who were merely part of a great empire which like the Anasazi, vanished. The Inca, fleeing the Spanish conquerors, moved deeper and deeper into the Andes until finally only their cities and memory remained. The search for the last stronghold of the Inca continues today.

Machu Picchu is only one of the many cities abandoned in the retreat of a great civilization and many that have been found remain unexplored because of their remoteness and inaccessibility. Many more are surely still lying clothed in jungle blankets waiting to be uncovered.

As impressive as the Inca empire is, the particular site of Machu Picchu distinguishes it from all others. It is carved out of the jungle on a peak among other towering granite giants with their heads in the clouds and their feet washed by the waters of a turbulent river on its way to the Amazon.

Return trip to Cusco was an hour longer as it is all uphill, climbing to 12,000 feet before dropping back down 800 feet to Cusco. It was well after dark when we arrived. We did meet some women, 2 sisters and their mother, from South Africa on the train. We thoroughly enjoyed tale swapping with them most of the way.

Following a quick trip to the hotel to wash up we returned to El Trunco for dinner and entertainment of traditional music and dance. However, David was our most entertainment – grimacing and squinting with a cuy foot sticking out of his mouth!

Cuy is a traditional dish, and the national dish of Peru. Guinea pig is roasted and served either with or without the head. Either way, it arrives with its feet intact. After chewing it properly and with enthusiasm, David placed it securely in his vest pocket to present to Amber as a souvenir upon his return home.

After dinner, more shopping for Christmas presents. These vendors are for the most part very friendly and helpful. Although excruciatingly poor, they laugh frequently and easily. The Andean Peruvians are very small in stature and broad faces badly weathered by their hard agrarian lives. The old women are very deeply lined, leathery and stoic. They can sit motionless for very long periods, their faces expressionless and timeless. Many still wear the traditional dress and all women carry their babies and belongings wrapped in their long scarves on their backs.

David bought a traditional llama wool cap, pointed on top and with ear flaps – actually wore it during the walk home. Guess he looked the part, as he was approached by a disreputable character and offered some marijuana!

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